nick
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[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]Looks good!Hey Nick since your over in the UK, are you very big on Farecla products? I have recently started using them and love them.[/quote]
I used farecla for donkeys years. right through the 90’s i used G3 paste, then when G3 liquid came out i used that right up till last year, then I switched to 3M’s fast cut plus 50417.
When Farécla [b]Advanced[/b] G3 Liquid Compound came out last year i think it was, i gave it a try but found it to be on par with the 3M product mentioned above and as i was able to get the 3m product a bit cheaper i stuck with it.
Farecla has always cornered the market in the uk
Anybody ever offers you farecla G4 dont take it not a good product, [b]Advanced[/b] G3 Liquid Compound is a far better product
[b]pnlbtr4life wrote:[/b]
[quote]What panel bonding brand do you use over there nick? I assume you glued to the flange you left under the drip, thats what id do too.[/quote]not in this case we were not quite finished removing all the panel, the rest of the panel at the top was removed and it was fully welded as there was also some access on the inside. Through the holes you can see on the inner frame.
But i have aslo bonded them along this type of seam or flange, using a variety of bonding sealers 3m, innotec, wurth etc.
I quite often bond around the wheel arch area, as many vehicle manafacturers do this nowadays and if it’s good enough for them it’s good enough for me lol.
the longest running ford van in the UK it is called a Ford Transit, the name has been in use since the mid 60’s
is that a clock on the wall ?, never seen that before,
quite a good idea for keeping an eye on flash off times. 😉
any question on mig welding look here, there are tutorials and many guys expeirenced in welding, It is a UK site but there are quite a few guys from over your side of the pond.
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/index.php
google mig weld forum and it has high ranking, very popular forum over 6000 members
P.S. Ryan there is a section on how to set up wire speed the corect way
tidy job, 🙂
what model is that, is it a 6 series ??,
and what year is the vehicle.
looks like a fair size job you have on there, interested to follow the progress on this one.
Whats happening second hand roof and pillar for the n/s
good job stone i am impressed, pdr takes patience i would imagine
Made a good job of the truck
some real good before and after pics here, gallery section near the bottom of the page. you need to register to view
http://www.doording.com/fusionbb/index.php
i never twist or wiggle just cause there is always a chance of leaving a hole.
i use side cutters cut them right through leave a millimeter or two sticking out of the panel then simply grind of with a fibre disc.
This way you have no chance of leaving a hole
honda’s hardly ever match for me lol
cheers ding
it is uk based candy paint so you may not have come across it, found quite a good candy thread over at A.B. online
on the subject of candy colours what do you guys thin the candy with is it a regular thinner or special additive
[b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
[quote]Does that make the intrusion beam repairable on those cars? (in the eyes of the manufacturer)[/quote]No i would say the genaral rule of thumb is any door beam intrusion damage, write for a shell
It is the have a go hero’s that say ” [b]i can sort that [/b]” :laugh:
Not all intrusion beams are made from UHHS, HHS. BORON , TRIP, Steel etc infact quite a lot are not
Jap Cars quite a lot are not
Ford post 2002 are
Bmw are
suzuki are not
Opel are
Personally if the intusion beam is damaged in slightest and i am unsure what type of metal the beam is made from. I will use that as a lever to force the adjuster to repalce the door shell, door skins are a menace and should be avoided i would refuse to replace a door skin on a car that was only months old. I dont care how good anybody is at skinning and sealing you can always tell when a door has had a skin.
If any body men on here disagree please post a high res pic of a door that has been skinned. A door shell replacment is much more time efficent repair procedure.
I dont know about you guys over the pond but the paint time on a shell plus double blend into surrounding panels is not much different to the paint time on a skin plus double blend. And i know witch job i would rather do by a country mile.i just noticed a special note on the data sheet suggest’s putting a yellow pearl in the candy at a mix of 8-1 that being one part pearl lol
this is supposed to make the candy coats more controlable and less prone to patching, what do you think??