nick
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[quote=”JackMarshall” post=27821]I find it strange how they’re telling us to glue and rivet these structural panels on to decrease welds.. yet still have to weld the joint up the roof pillars anyway?! What was wrong with a spot weld in the first place?![/quote]
Its all in the name of corrosion prevention from the welding process
[quote]yet still have to weld the joint up the roof pillars anyway?[/quote]
Nope in using the latest methods they dont weld the pillars.
very nice clean repair on the link below “no welding”
Yes prospray can successfully be used as a crossover to nexa, when i first started on my own there was an old ici mixing unit in my property, i used prospray tinters on it, as i was just starting out and money was tight.
No problems apart from the usual ici/nexa faults loads of variants for just about every colour and the usual over the top 9 or ten tinters in every mix lol
Hi welcome
I am from scotland as well, bout 30 miles south of Edinburgh
Nice Work :rock
[quote=”Andy T” post=29299]Kansas – swapping from 320 block to 500 on a DA is quite a jump which may be why your guy is leaving some scratch marks in the jobs. I’d suggest at least that he uses a guide coat so he can see exactly when all of the straight sanding lines have gone. Although if it were me I’d be tempted to DA with 400 instead to cut the scratches out quicker and make it less of a jump. I’ve no experience with the sealer you are using but I haven’t tried one yet that won’t fill a 400 DA scratch.[/quote]
I agree, though a lot of painters seem to favour 500 disc for some reason.
400 D.A. disc is much quicker and longer lasting than 500
lol you dont want to go back to wet flatting/blocking, so bloody messy and time consuming
in my opinion it is all down to the guy behind the brush or caulking gun.
In all my years i have only worked behind two guys that are really good with sealer, no matter if they use cheap crap or the most expensive sealers they could replicate most sealed areas, and i never saw them using masking tape, always freehand.
Doorskins is always the tell tale one, seen some really bad ones it’s a shame because it can spoil an otherwise good job.
I dont consider myself a sealing expert, and i need to use masking tape lol.
Luckily one of the guys i mentioned above works for me as a painter, and always leave the sealing to him lol.
one of the harder ones to do is raised bead on the exterior of a panel van, lord fusor do a pretty good kit for this, and this is one area that has to be perfect as it is on full veiw all the time.
[quote=”Ben” post=29152]I am just wondering if anyone has had a chance to try the new Farecla polishes yet? I think it is the G3 Ultra and something else? Just wondering how they compare to the existing Farecla products, if it is worth ordering in?[/quote]
We have been using 3m’s “fastcut plus” for many years, i kinda swerved away from farecla they seemed to lose their way a bit over the last few years, loads and loads of products all doing the same job.
their poster of product’s was getting huge 😆
Though for some reason G3 Ultra kinda caught my eye, i also heard that farecla are slimming down their product range considerably, as even they realize it has gotten out of control.
I have used Ultra a few times, it is very fast with a very good cut, and hardly any traveling splatter.
It is noticeably a very heavy and dense product, you only need a pretty small blob of product.
All in all i would say it is definitely one of the best products they have released in recent years
Repairing brand new delivery miles cars is reasonably regular occurrence for us, just did a Suzuki Sx4 about a week ago, roof damage, front screen had to come out, roof cloth roof bars etc
Couple of months ago there was a brand new Mitsubishi 3k worth of damage, they totaled that one at the dealerships request.
who is maaco being from the other side of the pond i have never heard of them, but they seem to be associated with ahitty work lol
Give me a brief outline of who they are, and why their rep is so bad.
What type of work do they do, are they some sort of supermarket type bodyshop
Thanks Nick
thats a pretty nice homemade setup
It is worse than i thought it was going to be.
Certainly needs rectifying, as ding mentioned a bad buff job can replicate what we see here, not always though.
On black cars and dark colours there are additional steps in the buffing procedure.
Though i suspect it is going to be a repaint job with a blend into the door.
[quote=”*99SSragtop*” post=27264]The fender that was just cleared is cleared over the factory finish. Only part of the fender that was base coated is the very front tip and then cleared. I told them to do that way cause I feared for a poor color match and thinking clear is clear and It will look good. I take it they just scuffed the remaining factory clear and cleared away.
So where you see the cloudy look is basically were they would of scuffed the factory clear and recleared.
Hope that makes sense.
Andy[/quote]Okay you are assuming they did what you asked.
Is it just the very tip of the fender that you can see a difference in the laydown of the flakes, reason i ask is unless the colour is way of. The eye can usually be tricked into not seeing the base blend, in particular on dark colours.
It could also be a poor quality clearcoat was used, sometimes cheap high solid clearcoats have issue’s in the clarity of the clearness, lol if there is such a word.
I am going to throw a curve ball here
i think it is the colour that is wrong and perhaps not the clear coat.
Couple of things bring me to this conclusion.
1/ i have seen it happen before just recently on a nissan black, small repair on the front of the fender, base was blended within the panel, and the whole fender was clearcoated. Outside under bright sunlight i could see the front section of the fender was very milky compared to the rear section that had no base on it.
If the whole fender had been painted one would suppose it was the clearcoat at fault.
2/ you have stated that the flakes looks different so this suggest the colour is wrong.
Back to basics the colour has to be right before we start discussing the clearcoat.
Hope this helps.
tommy
To be honest that sounds like quite long cycle times for short wave i.r.
I always thought I.R. short wave in particular, the selling point was that it was much quicker at drying a panel than a spraybooth was.
I have an old trisk medium wave it probably dries panels in the times you mentioned, but as i say i was led to believe short wave was much faster.
Still a great additon to the shop though, will speed up your jobs big time. 😉
PAS 125 is only in force with the UK just another obstacle the Insurer’s are throwing at us
The Senior technicians panel test i believe is quite difficult.
They put large dents in panels, you have to refinish the panel to within a 2mm tolerance, ie no more than 2mm worth of bodyfiller.
You also have to fit a sill panel or rocker as you guys would call it.
If you mark any of the inner structure with your saw or grinder you fail, also if you drill into the secondary panel when removing the spot welds you fail.
The above has to be done within a strict time limit as well.
[quote=”simon206wrc1″ post=25076]iv got a body shop in the uk that iv been running for over 10 years and need some help on something iv never seen before.
iv joined a fibreglass panel together and now its painted you can see the line … iv taken it back re fibreglassed the join sanded and filled with u-pol 7 and maxmayer primer over top after sanding with 80 grit. in-between ever stage we have heat dried it. now it is painted it looks ok but once heat is applied on the panel the line of the join shows up but not the line of the filler that cover a more wider aria ??? do you have any idea what this can be. we have taken the filler and glass fibre out of the join twice now heat dried all stages and its still doing it.please help.
Simon :wak[/quote]
Hi Simon
I am also from the uk small bodyshop in scotland good to see another brit on here.
How did you join the two parts was it with fibreglass matting and the proper fibrebglass resin.
There has been threads here before concerning fibreglass repairs, i am not that experienced on them.
I am sure somebody will chime in