nick
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yes it has been the same for me always have to log in every visit
must be something to do with cookies
other forums seem to remember me, one for Jimmo to fix me thinks
o well i must be the exception lol, i would not be without my panel stands, though some of the ones in the video look cumbersome and would take up a bit of room.
Tilting stands are great for new hoods, just fasten them on i start off vertical seal both sides, then colour underside, tilt flat and give it the heavy message on the outer side, i like to give hoods a good flooding of clear, i could never paint a hood vertical and be happy with it.
i find wires and hooks to the ceiling a bit of a hassle.
I have three of these stands
[quote=”lild” post=23927]i haven’t had this issue either, looks more like a rock chip or some one didn’t seal the part prior to painting, or just a missed spot durring prepeing.[/quote]
No i have not seen this happen with rock chips, it happens on edges when there is not enough clear, or the clear has been broken on assy.
The reason it happens on edges is not helped by the fact that is where the rain water sits the longest, opposed to a flat area like rock chips further up a hood or fender etc
[quote=”Jayson M” post=23910].They are also reccomending 2 medium wet coats + drop coat instead of a super wet first coat to avoid this.Funny how things have changed since they started pushing waterborne here since late 2006/2007.[/quote]
I think this was more to do with the paint companys trying to bum up their products superior covering power.
It was a way to show how much better the product was compared to solvent base’s
when a high end solvent would cover in two coats in most instances.
[quote=”ding” post=23874]Looks good. Judging by the fenders it looks like a dodge shadow, ply sundance ?[/quote]
it is known as a ford sierra over here approx 20 year old model
[quote=”Andy T” post=23855]A helpful post Nick, and that effect is something I’ve seen a lot.
Many people think the car has had a bad touch up job on an edge or something, until I explain.
[/quote]
That is what i thought it was the first time i saw it lol
i dont think there are any uk forums i started one years ago but very low usage, even though it was advertised in body repair mag
Tommy i live and work in Selkirk about 30 miles south of edinburgh.
Just past Galashiels
[quote]how do you know brian dose he get lost and end up in your town??? :whistle:[/quote]
Brian comes in to my place as well usualy on monday’s, lol yes he is a bit of a character :blink:
hi tommy
been using Lesonal WB since 2006, it is okay, the only thing i dont like is any base imperfections have to be flatted dry.
If you put anything wet on the base it just goes to mush, and the base has to be pretty well dired before you can flat it dry.
I used to use spies witch you could flat with panelwipe witch was pretty handy.
Lesonal is okay has it good points and bad points like most makes.
Who is your supplier is it Brian from Caralac
[quote=”turbo t” post=23831]Just taken the plunge and commited to debeer 900 wb bc as never using w/b before anything i should watch out for
just bought a nice new gti pro digital for spraying it too
any input welcome
tommy[/quote]
I am sure Andy use’s Debeer and will have vast experience with it, from memory he rates it pretty highly as well
[quote=”Brad Larsen” post=23412]Nick, do you have air jets or ceiling fans in the booth? Personally I like the jets. much cheaper than heat.[/quote]
Brad we use the air jets on stands, witch are fine but we find if we increase the temp on spray mode with the blowers on we can flash the base a lot quicker, we turn the temp back down for application.
My booth is a very old both about 20years old, even back then it was fairly low spec, so it is not an ideal booth for painting waterbase in
We can get around 5 reasonable size jobs through it per day
water is quicker on smaller jobs in my opinion.
And you cant argue it covers quicker and is much much less aggressive.
But it is not quicker on large jobs.
Lets take a job that is close to a complete. By the time you get round it in solvent your first panel will be practically dry,
This does not happen with water
And if you are using a high quality solvent like Spies for instance the covering power is very good
Solvent will dry with very little air movement, water wont ever tried painting water outside of a booth, easy task to do this with solvent not so easy with water.
Though i am biased as i grew up with solvent and find water to slow and use’s more energy to dry it,
Since switching my gas consumption has gone up. And i dont mean just the price as that has obviously increased over the years i mean the actual cubic meter consumption of gas has risen to cure this product
yes good flat off and let it sit for a day or so
You want to do your best not to break through the newly painted surface, or you may then be opening yourself up to problems
[quote=”PAINTPOT” post=22913]YOU are all right, i am wrong ,all the time i have been spraying for 35 years i though that volume was the amount of paint.in them years the question has never came up .Just shows you does not matter how long you have been spraying things will trip you up.[/quote]
Well done takes a man to step back and admit he is wrong.
We are all wrong from time to time, it is what makes us human
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=22911]what part of HIGH volume low pressure dont ya understand pot :stoned :stoned :stoned[/quote]
Maybe getting confused and thinking of LVLP.
HV stands for high volume for a reason
[quote]HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure)This is similar to a conventional spray gun using a compressor to supply the air, but the spray gun itself requires a lower pressure (LP). A higher volume (HV) of air is used to aerosolise and propel the paint at lower air pressure. The result is a higher proportion of paint reaching the target surface with reduced overspray, materials consumption, and air pollution. A regulator is often required so that the air pressure from a conventional compressor can be lowered for the HVLP spray gun.
A rule of thumb puts two thirds of the coating on the substrate and one third in the air. True HVLP guns use 8–20 cfm (13.6–34 m3/hr), and an industrial compressor with a minimum of 5 horsepower (3.7 kW) output is required. HVLP spray systems are used in the automotive, marine, architectural coating, furniture finishing, scenic painting and cosmetic industries
[/quote]