nick

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  • October 8, 2011 at 6:19 pm #33437

    i mentioned gti air caps in another thread

    http://www.refinishnetwork.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&id=3458&catid=24&Itemid=199

    October 8, 2011 at 4:27 pm #33434

    Depends witch cap you are using the hvlp cap uses much more air than the compliant cap

    October 5, 2011 at 4:09 pm #33378

    are you buying a gti or a gti pro

    You could probably get away with 1.3 for base and clear and maybe have different air caps for each

    This link will tell you what setup is best for each paint type

    http://www.devilbisseu.com/en-gb/downloads/paint-and-gun-match

    If for example you were using Lesonal Wb you would use a 1.3 setup for both and H1 cap for base, and a T1 cap for clear

    October 4, 2011 at 1:12 am #33364

    Hi i am a fellow scot, scottish borders bout 30 miles south of edinburgh.

    Welcome :cheer:

    October 3, 2011 at 4:04 pm #33353

    [quote=”TLB” post=22808]What is the price on that ?[/quote]

    Cost me £950

    October 3, 2011 at 1:22 pm #33340

    [quote=”PAINTPOT” post=22769]YES you can put clear coat over a solid color.if the hardener is the same as the hardener you are putting in the clear coat you can spray it all in one go.Three coats of white ,let tack of .Then two coats of clear coat.Or you can flat the white when dry ,then clear coat it.[/quote]

    It will sink if you do it this way, though it will still polish up okay.

    The clear just sinks into the solid colour, this is because the solid colour is still too wet and the clear just travels down and into the solid colour.

    I would either stick with just painting it solid white. Or buy white base and base and clear it.

    The other way means prepping the whole vehicle twice and full re-mask

    September 29, 2011 at 9:31 pm #33250

    Ding i think you will be real lucky to get a panel to panel on that car.

    The surrounding panels dont look like they have much depth, always gonna look off on the side tone.

    I dont tell my customer’s the procedures of paint matching, i just give them the price and tell them it will match.

    And that way they only study the one panel when they come to collect, cause they dont know there was a minimum of three panels painted.

    If he did not know you were going to blend and you did it he would probably never have noticed.

    Good luck with the tinting, tinting was never a strong point of mine, in fact i am rubbish at it lol.

    September 27, 2011 at 3:48 pm #33210

    [quote=”richardwragg” post=22671]every thing is going ok, till i put on the 2k base and got orange peel, i have set the line presure to 30 psibut still get it, also the gun doe’s slater a bit i am going to get a clean up kit for the gun (divilbisflg) any ideas? :welc[/quote]

    Dont know about over the pond, but here the F.L.G. is a primer gun i have one it has a 2.0 tip for high build primer.

    When we buy a new flg gun is comes with two tips 1.6 and 1.8 both of witch are too big for base and clear.

    Though i am sure some could get by with that size of tip 😉

    September 20, 2011 at 1:21 pm #33029

    going to end up with a pretty big repair area on that door :whistle:

    September 19, 2011 at 1:17 pm #33005

    If buying a meter consider buying a ferrous and non ferrous combined meter, either that or you will have to buy two separate meters

    September 16, 2011 at 12:00 am #32930

    the sun must be a lot harder over the pond

    We have blended hundreds in fact make that thousands of pillars

    Never had one fail yet

    And yes i have seen many cars, months even years after they were initially done.

    The only failure i ever see is a bit sinkage round some repairs,

    No where near all of them just the odd one here and there

    We have been working on that changed our methods of prep before primer.

    September 3, 2011 at 5:10 pm #32736

    I am by no means a stripe expert but if it was me

    I would start with the center line, you say it is a two inch stripe

    I would take some measurements find the center of the the hood right at the front end.

    center of the winshield top and bottom mark the windshield with a marker pen same on the back window and deck lid

    I would then use a line of two inch tape, centre of the tape on your measured marks, run it from the center of the hood right over the car to the center of the decklid, over the glass just one line, you will need an assistant.

    You should the have the area you want to paint covered by two inch tape.

    Then i would use fineline tape up each side of the two inch tape, then remove the two inch tape and you should hopefully have your centre line.

    You can then work on the other outer stripes measure measure.

    As i say i am no expert in this, but that is the way i would try.

    I am probably gonna get shot down in flames here lol

    August 23, 2011 at 6:17 pm #32609

    HB Body claimed to be the next big thing a few years ago

    Tried a few of their products and did not like any of them

    I found their wet on wet primer (sealer) to be very gritty

    I found their clearcoats required a lot of forced heat to make them cure easily thumb marked the next day, certainly would not airdry.

    Rattle can primers like gnat’s piss

    Never met anybody who rated any of their products, sorry sounds harsh but that is the reality of it.

    My painter had a big prob with their sealer that you are supposed to be able to use over nonsanded o.e. panels, he painted a new tailgate the car came back a month later the bonded rear window had came out. The sealer had let go from the o.e. non sanded primer when they looked at the back of the glass the window bonding material was fully cured and you could clearly see the sealer all the way round, it just had not adhered to the unsanded window aperture .

    August 20, 2011 at 5:52 pm #32564

    [quote=”part timer” post=22094]
    @ nick , I think ur probably right , I’m a bit old school, low ish pressure and slow passes so this proably is’nt helpin !
    Any inlet pressure recommendations ?[/quote]

    Minimum off 2bar 30psi at the gun you wont atomize high solids with anything less .

    If you have a pressure gauge that attachs to the gun, always make sure the cheater valve is fully open before adjusting pressure on the gun gauge

    August 20, 2011 at 4:27 pm #32561

    most definetly to much material, never use to get this in the days of medium solids, but i have seen it since the inception of high solids clears.

    All good advice above if you vary your technique as mentioned you will avoid this without any further problems, try upping your pressure at the gun this will speed up the application process.

    And will require less material application, some times if the pressure is too low you find yourself going slower and closer to the panel to gain a finish, this usually results in to much material being applied.

    When i changed to high solids clear’s i found i had to change my technique, by upping the pressure by quite a margin, i use to paint with quite a low pressure and slow pass’s but that just does not work with the latest generation of clearcoats.

Viewing 15 posts - 91 through 105 (of 341 total)