Jake
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I’m pretty sold on SATA. Use a 1.3 3000 RP for clear and I have both a 3000 and 4000 WSB for base……. If you think the 3000 is awesome, the 4000 kicks it’s a** in my opinion. Also used a GTi for a starter gun, now use it as a sealer gun. Either brand SATA or DeVilbiss is a good buy…….. for the extra money the technology in SATA is worth it.
Basically like everyone else has said. It doesn’t matter who you talk to everyone is going to have a different opinion. Whatever you choose to buy, you get what you pay for. I have a GTi, 2 Sata 3000 WSB’s, and a Sata 3000 RP. All of them are excellent guns. I have never sprayed a Iwata but I hear nothing but good things about them. When I was in school and starting out all I used was my GTi and I used that for everything from sealer to clear and it worked great. Each gun is going to have its pros and cons you just have to play with it and get it dialed in.
thanks for the input lild. We have the Garmat fans on the ceiling of the booths right now. We had them installed a few months ago and we have been using them for our solvent and they do move a lot of air so I will have to do a little experimenting with everything when we get switched over. On the part of keeping your gun clean is there a special cleaner you can use (other than the cleaner you would use to clean your gun out after painting) maybe as a cleaner to use once a week to really clean your gun out? After hearing everyone’s response on the sealer, I’m going to seal everything!!! The guys I work with won’t seal primer unless the HAVE to so we will get to see how it goes both ways. Can’t wait to keep everyone updated on the change!!!! One month and counting!!! P.S. just sent in my paper work for the PPG certification
I’m a really big fan of the Sata HVLP with the WSB air cap on it. I know they are a little more expensive that $300.00 but in my opinion you can’t spend too much on a tool that is going to make you alot of money in the long run. I’m actually getting ready to buy another one so I have two base guns when we convert to water in about a month.
You can’t go wrong with PPG’s 2021 or 2042 clears. Our shop owner looked into Autowave because he has been with Sikkens for over 20 years. The only downfall to going with Autowave is our local jobber for Sikkens is about to close the doors so he can retire and the nearest jobber is about 50 miles away and with the volume we do, if we run out of a toner, ect we need it right now so I think that had a major effect on his decision, and we wern’t getting much support from our jobber anyways. Our jobber who is going to be supplying us with Envirobase is at our shop more than our paint supplier and all he was doing before the change was supplying us with sandpaper and shop supplies way more support which is a plus!!
were using Sikkens Auto Base Plus right now. We had a demo last winter on Envirobase I liked it and thought it was easy to spray, but since it was a demo and we have four painters we each only got to paint a handful of cars. The sealer is a great piece of advice….. I like to seal anyways because I’ve found out that you have less issues with blocking scratches showing up that way. What has your experience been with the blender they have out? Can you take it to the end of the panel? Will it change the color of your blend panel? Does anyone use the One Visit Clear? EC 700 or something like that? Were starting to get bits and pieces on what we are going to have not sure what undercoat system we are going with yet…. probably deltron if I had to guess.
Primer – Sata ??? (Shop Gun) Huge Tip
Sealer – DeVilbiss GTI 1.3
Base – Sata 3000 WSB 1.3
Clear – Sata 3000 RP 1.3
This week was my week to paint again and I had a bumper and quarter repaint plus a door blend on a silver toyota (code 1D0). I did everything you guys told me to do. Put down a coat of blending additive and reduced my base 80% with extra slow reducer. It worked AWESOME looked like a text book blend there was no foggy spots or nothing in the blend panel. You guys were also right on the flash time I didn’t notice any difference in flash times from slow reducer to extra slow. Once again thank you so much for the input!!!!
We are all painters here. There are flaws in paint jobs that we can see from a mile away that any regular person will never notice as long as they own their car. With that being said just because it does not come back does not mean there isn’t something wrong with it. When that customer says who fixed it and another painter happens to be looking at the job they are going to notice the flaws from shortcuts and they are going to develop an opinion on you and your work really fast. The extra 10 minutes it takes to apply a coat of sealer is well worth it in the long run. When that job comes back and you have to pay your employees to repair the failed paint job, repaint the panel for the second time for free, and your reputation at stake. Plus the time you are spending fixing a poor paint job for free is time that could be used making money. A few extra minutes and $$$$ is well worth it. Would you want a doctor to take a short cut on you while they are performing surgery on you?
Thanks for the input guys Ill try to slow it down even more next time and see how it works. I hope this is the ticket because Im getting tired of having to battle with this stuff. The good thing is it cooled down this week so the paint booths wont feel like they are on bake when Im spraying!!! :cheer: Ill keep you guys posted on the outcome!!!
Thanks a lot for the input jayson and steve!!!! I generally use slow reducer in all of my metallics but this past week it has been very hot out 95 + and the thought never crossed my mind but Im starting to think that maybe even a slow reducer may have been too fast for the temperature. Im getting way more input from everyone on here than I can get at work!!! I know where to come when I have a issue or question from now on!!!!