nosensegrafix
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- November 20, 2010 at 8:38 am #25279
We use both 4CR and Metalux on some of our used cars, both are relatively easy to spray, have good gloss, and seem to have good durablility.
November 26, 2009 at 7:42 am #17243[b]paintnfool wrote:[/b]
[quote]Is 90-line a tool??? If so, that’s the absolute worst tool I’ve bought. Thank god for solvent!!!!!!!!!!!!!!![/quote]LOL!!! :rofl Thats funny! Dont let crash1 from the other forum see this. 90 line’s not bad at all. I do miss the color match of it.
By far the worst tool I had was the Sharpe Platinum. Piece of junk!!!! On a side note my 1/4 inch mac tools FOOSE edition ratchet is sorta a pile too. Keeps siezing up and the little switch keeps flippin on its own. I know I know bring on the criticism for buyin a foose edition anything. Say what you want but I got a sweet deal on a nice set a couple years ago.
October 30, 2009 at 4:39 am #16673My current boss here swears by these thin pieces of balsa wood. I thought it was one of the hokiest things I had ever seen until I tried it out on blockin primer, everything thus far straightens out as good as can be. I really stand by dura blocks but I gotta say it is kinda nice pushin that much less weight of balsa wood around.
October 28, 2009 at 7:59 am #16651[b]paintnfool wrote:[/b]
[quote]I just use my primer/surfacer at very low air pressure. I’ve been doing that for years now and never had a problem matching any of the textures. Never had any luck with the shaky bomb stuff.[/quote]LOL! I have done this as well as even the clear sometimes. And ya it does work pretty well.
October 28, 2009 at 7:57 am #16650Ya those two comedy central news programs are usually pushing the f*&k the mainstream media agenda. Thats whats so cool about them. Youtube Jon Stewart and Bill Oreilly. Stewart pretty much puts him in his place. Kinda classic really.
October 28, 2009 at 5:19 am #16645I watch sattelite,and try to get all my news from the Colbert report or the daily show with Jon Stewart.lol. And even tho i get tired of looking at cars sometimes there a new show on Speed called super cars exposed which is pretty sweet. but if I really wanna get aggravated and throw something at my tv, an episode of pimp my ride will do it. As far as kids go, the discovery channel has come a long way in entertainment while still keeping its education value. Same with the Natinal Geographic Channel. Just mu opinion tho
October 28, 2009 at 5:14 am #16644IMO the rattle can is quick and easy but doesnt match many of the textures out there, such as toyota tacomas or maxda miatas, or econoline vans for that matter. So whats everyones opinion on duplicating that sorta thing. i used to use the wurth stuff out of it own gun but its hard to duplicate the match and is a real pain in the arse to use. My boss here had me use napa brand thru a primer gun and it seemed to work pretty well. What else?
October 28, 2009 at 5:08 am #16643[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]Superduty :blink:Uh oh where is this going! :rofl[/quote]
Its in a thread talking about some bottom of the line clear that sounds like a costco brand. And your gonna question the old school super duty? Whats wrong with super duty? I use it on all my black rigs fresh outta the booth, with a wool pad. lol. kidding, but it used to work good for getting old gel coat to shine again, and clear blends.October 27, 2009 at 5:09 am #16616Have you tried bringin it way the way down to 3000 with your sanding? that may help, then if its that hard, maybe the ol 3M super duty compound?
October 20, 2009 at 9:53 am #16497Yep over the years I have become a pretty good and fast polisher. As far as taking care of the nibs part way through. I will knock them down after my first coat of base with either 1000 or 600 grit depending on the color. What really irks me though is after doing that, and I come across some big honkers in the clear. Today I sprayed a charger hood and tops of fenders, I did the normal process plus a few small things mentioned here, but also sprayed the anti static way up onto the plastic. I just blended the corner of the hood with base and cleared the whole thing of course. Came out with about 8-12 nibs, enough where I was able to just nib it. Probably wouldve been less if I didnt have to jam the bumper up in the front of the booth with it. Thanks for the tips, just what I was looking for.
October 18, 2009 at 9:11 pm #16476I have notice sometimes than if I dont give a flying fuk, it does come out nicer sometimes, like the lower end cars always seem to come out nicer than the jobs that need to be flawless. And yep thats me,….pickypainter. 👿 Yes I went to work for crash for awhile out there on the coast. It was a great experience for the most part, got to live the coastal beach life for awhile, but learned that I am a mountains guy who likes my 4 seasons, kinda got a little homesick after 10 months. Crash is great guy, but sorta hard nose (which probably has gotten him where he is today) but it created an environment which was tough for me to perform in. So I took an offer back here at home, to get me home, and am now getting ready to upgrade to a very nice place in two weeks with bennys etc. that Im super excited about. Anyway, back to the original post. I will start with my first step after rinsing off scuffing paste (manjuice 😛 ) and sanding sludge.
1.A good rinse with the hose, blow all the water out. Wipe out jambs, cracks, wheel wells etc. with a W&G soaked rag.
2. Blow the sh*& out of everything again.
3. Mask everything super tight, and clean, then pull in booth.
4. Finish masking details, wet down the floor (usually), then wax and grease everything. This is where I have been trying different things but typically next
5. CLose up the booth, get it warm and air moving. One last blow, then tack.
6. Since I have been back here, I hose down a coat of DX103 (anti-static) then tack one more time before sealing and goin to town. Thanks for the replies fellas
October 17, 2009 at 10:16 pm #16467I used some grits of these as well for some time and loved them. My only complaint as mentioned was the little bit of cushyness I felt didnt block as straight as conventional blocks. So the rep gave me some conversion strips for my durablocks which took care of that. I didnt even use the vacuum, I just like them because the paper lasts forever and cuts faster and straighter IMO. I also swear the finer D.A. grits give a more even surface than conventional paper too.
September 19, 2009 at 7:15 pm #16041Yea they are really popular here. Hopin to be painting more of them soon. We had one brought in friday afternoon gettin ready for the season. Heres a pic of the M10 I did for a friend last year. [img]http://www.refinishnetwork.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/Sled_from_the_right.jpg[/img]
Attachments:September 19, 2009 at 8:42 am #16032Yep congrats on the article. I have been a member here for awhile. I swore I had made a few post way back, I think they were pics of a sled hood I did, but now it shows as this is my first. So….hello. Definately like the firendly vibe of this forum.
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