raymond
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[quote=”Ben” post=23101]The GTi will be fine, much better than the starting line guns. The GTi is not that hard to clean. Don’t worry about the baffle, you are not spraying non-stop everyday, it will last for a very long time. Any gun will spray like crap when the parts are worn out, the GTi is no exception. As far as corrosion goes, many guns are made of aluminum so the inners (and sometimes the outside) has a coating on it or is anodized. The needles, nozzle and aircap are often made of stainless steel. The GTi is an aluminum body, the needle, nozzle and aircap are stainless. I believe the internals of the body have a coating on them so should you put water through there, you will probably be fine. Just don’t use the aluminum cup (which isn’t coated)
As I have mentioned before, find out exactly what product you are using FIRST.
The GTi and Plus are similar guns, the GTi is an HVLP, the Plus is complaint (generally sprays with a slightly higher pressure but slightly lower volume of air). The Plus is not the best gun for basecoat. Of the 2, I would suggest the GTi for you.
You obviously do not want to spend much on a gun, the GTi was a great professional gun several years ago, its just that since then, there have been many newer guns that are better, like the Tekna. The outdated GTi is still far superior to the cheap starting line gun that never was, and never will be a professional tool.[/quote]hye Ben..im looking for good primer gun..can u help me to find the correct gun for primer..thanks
how about 923-255?
:welc :welc :welc
ok thanks guys
so only solid color can be compounding?
sealer is use before primer surfacer or before basecoat? how about epoxy primer?
very very very nice car..im loving it
i think the problem is inlet pressure setting. try to increase air inlet pressure
thanks Ben. good information. i think its also good before we buy a used car 🙂
do u sand the primer with 320 grit sandpaper?
[quote=”Ben” post=22481]I have used them before (wet type and dry type).
It is kinda handy when trying a new product to ensure you are getting proper mil build. It is also good when learning to paint to check the panel when you are done to ensure it is fairly even. Lots of guys tend to put less product on towards the bottom of the vehicle.
If you do run into issues and redos (possibly peeling paint) its a good idea to check it and see if proper build was achieved.[/quote]what the different between wet type and dry type? what is your suggestion?
thanks
nobody?
wow..u use ss or matte agent with clear coat? still waiting for your video ..hehe
w400 is old model before w400lv (compliant gun)..the different is air cap and nozzle. if u want to convert w400 to w400lv just change lv4 aircap and change the nozzle. the famous iwata’s clear coat gun is w400/w400lv. w400lv inlet pressure is 20psi..so can less overspray and save your paint. w400 inlet pressure is 29psi. if you have more budject i recommend w400lv..if not u can go with w400. dont worry because u can convert your w400 to w400lv..just change air cap and nozzle. my suggestion is 1.4 tip for clear coat. myself also using w400 with no problem..atomizing very fine..im loving it
:dnci using lv2 cap..lv4 cap is only for w400lv compliant gun and hvlp gun. u must check the noozle also..make sure got mark ‘w400’
make sure u receive your spray gun like this:
http://www.asetusa.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=162