john salvio
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- November 17, 2014 at 7:19 am #47953
Thanks for the comments. Booth has 3 sets of intake filters as far as I know. Ceiling, intake filters in intake vent and then hanging bag filters right on top of it. And good luck with breaking in that booth. I think it took me about 15 jobs of getting dust and what not before I started getting nice clean finishes. Paint suit and how well you clear the car makes a tremendous difference. Also the 3m dirt trap on floor and walls makes a huge difference too. Especially if you’re using waterborne paint and blowing air around the booth to dry basecoat
September 23, 2014 at 7:11 am #47440I had the chunk problem, the first few times. Once I switched to the 125 micron strainer I haven’t seen a chunk yet. Once I’m fully setup I’ll use the pps made for waterborne most likely though.
September 9, 2014 at 3:18 am #47319I’m actually in a similar situation. I just started spraying aquabase (same as envirobase, different label), not full time, but am in the midst of converting from lesonal.I’ve done maybe 5 cars with it now…and cannot wait to put the system in and use it full time. The coverage is pretty great, the colors have been amazing. I haven’t had any issues covering sanded primer spots. If you have the right color sealer or base for the color you’re applying, you can definitely achieve full coverage with two coats like they say…its not bullshit. I’ve also been using the Euro clear and honestly, I never thought in a million years I would ever use a shopline product given it’s reputation, but the clear is awesome. For a non heated booth I would HIGHLY recommend getting the JC6800 over the JC6700. The 6700 just stays open way too long without heat. I’m talking it stays wet for like 15 minutes in 80 degree weather, where the jc6800 is tacked off in just under 10 minutes. If you have a day where it’s really hot..and up to 90 degrees or so in the booth..they make a High Temp hardener for the jc6800 which slows it down. I made the mistake of spraying jc6800 when it was really hot without the high temp hardener and the left fender was tacked off by the time I got to the right fender, so def keep the high temp hardener around.
All I can say is…be patient, the products are great. Once you get familiar with the envirobase and those euro clears I think you will get great results. I’m about to post some pictures of a black hood I did today with the jc6800, so you can be the judge. The product is def not piss water like the other shopline clears people are familiar with. It sprays like a super high end product.p.s. I cannot say anything about the longevity of how these new shopline clears will last…and quite frankly I don’t think anyone can…they just haven’t been around long enough, but I have not had any immediate die back issues..I just saw a car I finished 3 weeks ago…and it looks exactly like the day I finished it. I know obviously 3 weeks isnt shit in the real world, but the older clears would die back that quick! It’s a friend of mine and I told him I was in the middle of trialing new products and to keep an eye on it for me and let me know how it holds up.
August 31, 2014 at 5:01 am #47298Sorry to bring back an old thread. Welcome to the forum. How do you like the 4000 clear? and have you used the 3000 at all? Do you use the 4000 over the autowave as well? Using both systems on a daily basis which one do you prefer? I currently use lesonal and am either switching to autowave or aquabase. Leaning more toward aquabase because the supplier is a little more reliable. I sprayed 2 cars with with aquabase, one with ppg rep and one without. I did great today on my own with a bright silver metallic. Dumped the clear a little too heavy on hood and got solvent pop, but that’s my fault.
Anyways anxious to hear how you compare both systems being you actively use both. And I’m anxious to hear about the 4000 clear. I’m experimenting with shopline jc6700 right now. It’s, in theory, a lower end product than im used to spraying, but so far I’m getting excellent results with it. My only fear is the longevity. People swear by it, but I’m not sold. I wouldn’t mind spending a few extra dollars on the 3000/4000 line of clears if they are indeed better.
Thanks
JohnAugust 17, 2014 at 9:12 pm #47222My downdraft booth is brand new. Right now I’m using it with a polished concrete surface. Once the new polished concrete starts to look aged I will use Benjamin Moore super spec 100% solids epoxy. You can youtube it, extremely high build and dries looking like glass. Easy to mop and clean etc. Its self leveling and actually gets applied with a squeegee. Extremely durable. You can use the mat like ryan shows, however, if its a full downdraft booth I don’t much use for a dirt trap on the floor. (I could be wrong though). I do my booth walls with that 3m dust trap and I did notice a difference before and after applying it. You can even tile the booth floor, I’ve seen guys get very creative with the inside of their booths.
Good Luck, if youre looking for an epoxy, check out the one I mentioned.August 17, 2014 at 3:08 am #47219you know what? a couple months ago I would have gave it to a neighbor of mine, but it seems like when you sub out mechanical work…you get the car back and you slide off the seat because of the amount of grease left behind…So i did it myself. Besides he’s one of those old school customers who only trust me with the car. I cant for the life of me figure out why….but he does :rofl :rofl
August 14, 2014 at 7:20 am #47207I’ve been using this one for a while http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/infratech-color-matcher-light-system-cm5300-p-14231.aspx
Works great, its alot cheaper than the 3m one, which I own as well. I stopped buying parts for it, it was ridiculous. 100 dollar batteries, 50 light bulbs, and then when you really need it in a pinch THE BATTERY IS DEAD!
When my last battery took a shit, i found this one, and my jobber sold it to me for 160. It has two light bulbs as well, covering a larger surface area like if you want to check the blend on a hood or something.August 13, 2014 at 4:27 am #47188I agree with Ben, I see that exact scratch in my neighborhood all the time, end of a shopping card handle or a bicycle or something like that. Im 99% sure, its not a defective paint job from the factory, and i highly doubt you can get Chrysler to cover it for you. Even if chrysler would cover it for you, I’d suggest checking some reputable shops outside of chrysler to fix it as well. I know alot of guys who do dealer work for chysler, and to put it nicely, I wouldn’t let them touch my car in a million years.
Good luck getting it sorted out.April 2, 2013 at 4:43 am #42558For those of you who haven’t had great results, or mixed results, have you made sure you always have the plastic on the right side? My plastic has a Paint this side note on in, and if you have the plastic upside down the paint will fly right off it.
March 19, 2013 at 2:51 am #42210Even alot of compounds now are filled with bs fillers. You compound a car, it looks great…see it a week later after it was washed a few times and you can see scratches that didn’t show when you finished it. What Ben said works, Clean it with some sort of prepsol in between steps to assure you’ve completely removed all the original sand scratches.
I personally don’t even bother with glaze anymore.
I use compound, swirl remover, and if its a dark car, I use 3m ultrafina with the purple pad. The last step goes on wet and stays wet. You do 3-4 passes with buffer and then wipe it with a microfiber. Works well for me.March 9, 2013 at 4:58 am #42000I personally don’t think it is a static issue, but if for some reason it is, I believe transtar makes a new waterborne wax and grease remover called Aquascat. It comes in a spray bottle and has a static eliminator built in to it.
February 28, 2013 at 2:44 am #41685thanks for all the kind words…now I can finally enjoy getting 6mpg….
February 27, 2013 at 3:27 am #41663car is pretty much done! Got some odds and ends like some seat belt retractos, and the third brake light, but other than that, she’s looking good!
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[img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4xdvaE6gXSc/USQtnUCLWhI/AAAAAAAAAvs/bo_VN-sDmTQ/s1024/IMG_20130219_202002_295.jpg[/img]February 16, 2013 at 11:10 pm #41417Got everything jambed out, doors on for good. Inside trunk all finished, painted, etc. Pretty much ready for paint and assembly.
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