john salvio
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Great. I’d really love to see some pictures of some work that comes out of it as well!
I have used wax and grease remover on fresh basecoat numerous times without any issues. I dont think you should have any issue.
yes they allow dry chem. They want 12,400 for it. For the booth and mixing room.
when you say semi downdraft.. is it side downdraft? or rear exhaust?
If you’re saying no matter how much you sand the area that you’re assuming to be orange peel, the dot still appears to be there, there is a good chance it may be a fish eye. Why don’t you try to take a picture of it and show us exactly what it looks like before you continue to sand off clear.
I’m not in your shop, nor do I know what is actually going on. One thing I do know is that a lot of these paint reps – and i’m not saying all of them, but alot of them – will come up with some outrageous explanation of why you are having problems, just because they won’t want to put the blame on the product. 1. because their pride, 2. because they don’t want to risk having to pay you money to redo anything under warranty.
I can’t talk for anyone else here, but I know over the years of doing these repairs, there has been instances where i’ve had to rush small spot repairs, etc. I’ve put wet on wet on wet coats of base, not even let it flash off properly, and then dump clear on top of it. When it hardened, it was hard, and that was it. To top it off, thats with no bake cycle or anything else because I currently do not have a spray booth. It’s a bad example, and bad practice to do that, I’m just using it as an example to say that I personally Do Not think air flow in your booth is causing your clear to stay soft.
If I were you, I would personally try a different clear all together and see if you have similar problems. Usually if clear dies back due to solvent trying to evaporate and not being able to come through the surface, it was die back within 24 hours, and cause solvent pop on top of it. Clear dying back 3-4 days later seems like defective, or shit clear to me.
I haven’t upgraded to the 4000 series because I dont see a need for it right now. I use a 3000hvlp for all my metallic basecoats. I use the RP for solid colors like white, black, red, and clear. I do it that way partly not to have to use solid colors in a gun that once had metallic in it, and IMO the RP lays out clear nicer than the HVLP. Although, if I was going to buy one gun to do everything, I originally used an RP for everything, but it is nice to have both.
Bottom line – Both guns will get the job done, it’s really preference. Both guns are capable of producing beautiful outcomes.
believe it or not on the 1953 vette…I had overrestored the car originally. When I brought it to be judged they took points off because the car was too straight. I had to redo the car and make it wavy and get over spray on the weatherstrips LOL.
I know its ridiculous but if you want the awards this is what you deal with![quote=”Jayson M” post=28875][quote=”chumpi” post=28873]Nice work… but why the over-spray on the intake manifold on the Sting Ray? :wak[/quote]
If you are doing a 100 point concours resto on a big block vette and you want to go to the bloomington gold show you have to reproduce what the factory did right down to factory overspray.[/quote]Jayson is right. As stupid as it is, when that car is judged, if you do not have that overspray on the manifold you lose points.
Thanks for all the kind words and compliments!!
also, I will get a downdraft booth with the optional basement, so I don’t have to dig a full pit
The modified downdraft i’m speaking of is like this..
http://www.accudraftpaintbooths.com/product-details.php?r_ID=8
The exhaust in two columns on the back wall.a lot of guys in the area have the chinese booth i’m speaking of. It’s not much less than the accudraft to be honest. I don’t think the future cure can be installed in NYC.
I’m getting quotes of alot more than you. I got a quote on the accudraft. 60,000 just for the booth. 12k for fire suppression, that’s including the mixing room. Another 8,000 for the architect. The whole booth is probably going to cost me 90k. The rules and permits and stuff needed in NYC is ridiculouswhat did a garmat booth run if you dont mind me asking?
Gem tools. He’s a guy i’ve used for alot of equipment. I could go with a chinse booth named Zhangda. It’s a good quality booth but its not as customizable. I need something very specific for my area because i’m tight for space.
personally, i’m not a big fan of transtar products. I don’t know if you have a kemperle near you, but they sell a clear by HB Body. It’s actually imported from greece and its very inexpensive. I painted a car with it, never polished it, then sent the car to florida. Five years later, in the florida sun it still looks like the day I sprayed it. I think the clear comes out to about 140 dollars a setup, but its a 5 liter and 2.5 liter of hardener. So for 140 dollars you’re getting 7.5 liters of clear unreduced.
Another decent inexpensive clear is pretty much all the clears by U-pol, which i believe is imported from england.