Pablo Claros
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I second that
Those rims look sick :woohoo:
Both of Them (jimmo and jim c)
But jimmo why didn’t you use your sri devilbiss to clear those rims?
When the wheel guys at work mess up the rim, I normally paint them with the Sri. Its alot easier than with the RP.
Standox.
Dont use 15-60—too sensitivePremium Clear
2 to 1 with the 20 -30 hardner
5 percent 15-25 express thinner
Tight first coat – three inch from the panel moving about twice as fast as your used to at 6 inches
give it 10-15 minutes to flash ..18-20 if ur booth has bad airflow
then just give it a wet 2nd coat normal speed and normal distance
Becareful don’t let the clear build up to 3 coats on the blends in between panels
because it will run. Don’t stop at the end of panels either blend into each panelGood luck its a beautiful clear it might pinch but it buffs out perfectly
i thought u were an iwata guy
Standox has a premium clear to this day it has the highest gloss ive ever since..I ve used dupont,spies,nason,standox,ppg and Rm clears i think dupont has a 4900 or 4300 clear that is okay and very easy to shoot…Premium took about 4 jobs until i got the hang of it
I think Ryan hit the nail on the head. A painter has to adjust himself to his environment. At the shop I worked at before almost every car had one or two fisheyes.(Thats what your problem is ,Ryans right solvent pop are little bubbles in heavy build areas or it happens from using the wrong hardner or thinner for the temperature your working in.)You could try to isolate the problem. Waxes with silicone is the first thing I would get rid of because thats what we did and it works. Try to stop using the hand soap.I never used that in the shops I’ve worked in. You’ll never solve the fisheye issue on every car but you can get to were they don’t happen as much or as bad. Good Luck :cheer:
They sell screen adhesives for them…just peel them off when cloudy and put a new one on..I couldn’t tell you where to get them because I haven’t bought one yet I had to choose between the Sata fresh air system or a SuperNova Iwata . :wak
Well I started there today and we had a Volkswagen Code LR7L . Only one variant and it was too blue so we took out the blue and added 600 gold. Its blendable now
I’ll never for get when the 3m rep brought the sun gun by the shop.They went into one of the booths and stopped the painter from laying down the first coat of clear because they saw sand scratches everwhere :cens
I use it on every car. Solids,Metallics,Pearls….everything Better safe than sorry :wak
Some silvers are easy and some are not but trying to blend a silver solvent base over a car that has been painted with water base paint is tough
i here that BASF paints are pretty user friendly. I use Standox/Spies and they can get a little tough with silvers. Good Luck Its starting to warm so go with the right reducers for whatever the temperature is.
I have the same problem with light silvers and golds. The face of the color looks perfect but the side tone goes dark.
If you have access to toners you can add a white pearl to lighten the flop a little with out changing the face too much.
Or find a better alt.I never used S.W. brand but in the Spies/Standox line we can mix up to 50 % base blender into out base for the final blend and that sometimes helps alot ,depending on what type of silver toner is in the paint .
Good Luck
I would do the whole side.Its going to be easier to lose the blend around the wheel well of the fender.
Looks awesome for two reasons
1.You did an awesome job2. Its a mustang :cheer:
:cens
Since I’ve been using Sata this would be the second price jump.