Pierce
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I think I can learn a lot from this thread because there’s a lot of great professionals here.
In my shop I focus on speed first and perfection second. And there’s a few things that have been real game changers for my version of painting.
-priming right before paint (solid colours don’t need sanding and metallics need sanding on the edge of the primer)
-not waiting in between coats (blowing air through your paint gun will dry paint very quickly)
-if you use regular paper and plastic when masking, you can get used to folding plastic and paper under itself instead of cutting it. Then use one piece of tape to secure it perfectly at the end of the molding. (if you only dry sand then you can keep the old tape on the moldings)
-Using 1 coat of clear coat (easy to do with high gloss clear coats, plus it drys quicker)The faster you work the less dust you will see using this method, so much so that the option to not use tack rags is one to be considered.
And yes I’m not having flawless jobs every time, but I can tell every single time if there’s going to be a problem after the first coat of base. So the idea of having to completely redo a job doesn’t really make sense. Something else that doesn’t really make sense is making spray out cards, I’ve done it before and it worked great but it can’t be the best way to do it.
I would probably go for PPG because I use Omni and even that looks like a high quality clear.
So what’s the best pad for 400 grit? Not so much long lasting but for speed of cut.
I’ve also used scuff stuff, the 3m version and the SEM version, for soap, scuff stuff is probably the best but it doesn’t go upside down so that’s a big let down, so if I had the money I’d go for 3m.It’s my experience that everyone who says don’t use a red scuff pad or a scuff pad at all, has no idea what they’re talking about. I made the decision about a year ago to only use red scuff pads because I tested the difference between red and grey Norton pads and there was no difference in the brightest of silvers.
Sometimes I use the red scuff pad over primer with great success as long as the primer isn’t too rough.
Hey good post NFT5. But alas I am not planning on a paint booth as good looking as yours. I want to try something that I have not really seen before. I’m going to focus my faith in some characteristics and disregard others.
Fan won’t be powerful but it will be close to the vehicle. A hose and mop will be very handy. And the plastic sheeting will be air tight and open at the top of the high ceiling for 2 feet.
If I get too much dust I’ll install filters covering the open part of the booth.
If I still get dust I’ll start using an anti static air gun (some dealerships use them).
Then by that point if I’m not getting better results than the average paint booth than that’s the way it’s going to be.
The confidence that I do have stems from how I can paint a complete car in my small 1 car mechanic shop with 0 dust on side panels and only a slightly alarming amount of dust on hoods.Heh, okay, not the kind of replies I was expecting. Please can you refrain from tell me to go buy a used spray booth or lease one, for reasons I don’t feel the need to get into.
Let’s help me with designing this new kind of spray booth! Thank you.Alright well I like to know your opinions on just using 40 grit to bring all the edges of the panels to bare metal. Or would 40 be too course? Then I bring it to 120 and prime the entire car in the best stuff I can find? Does this sound like something that someone would do for a good customer or is this a mistake?
Dubai’s a pretty funky place. I sent 3 cars there this month of November.
If I were you I’d go for the white paint then put a little bit of fine gold flake in your first coat of clear. Put it on really quickly with 2 coats, painting one and a half panels at a time. Clear that and if it doesn’t look good, try it again tomorrow.
Then ship it and report it stolen. 🙂Yeah I’m in the same boat Bill. When I start hearing that the person is really passionate about their car and they want to get a super cheap paint job, I kind of turn them away. One car can 1500 for 2 days work where an anal customer will be 1500 for 2 weeks of hard boring work.
That’s why I’m pretty excited about this new paint, I think what people want in this day and age is spray on vinyl wraps, not paint jobs. I think it’s too hard to get money for a job that will take any more than 2 days to do so a complete paint job in 5 or 6 hours seems like a real way to make money to me.Jayson, it’s more about finding the right way and not everybody will have the same idea of the right way. Just like how not everybody will charge the same amount for the same exact job.
I mean heck it’s a recession, give me a break.Good job at recognizing that you must sacrifice quality instead of speed. The reality is that you’re in the wrong place to ask for advice because there isn’t enough people who are on the path that you are on and that’s a real shame because I learn tricks from local painters all the time that could really help people out.
Now to give you an idea on how you can improve; what if I told you that you only had 2 hours to do that job? Where would you make up all that time and what are the changes you must make to get you the flawless work that your customer demands?
Obviously this is a recipe for disaster but from those disasters you will grow leaps and bounds. I’ve said it before but productivity is about the little things, you really can be 2, 4, 8 times faster.
How come you decided to go for this license? And when are they writing this new test? And on what book?
I’m trying to figure this stuff out but would it give one the ability to purchase commercial land and install a paint booth?
You seem like you understand painting very well so it scares the crap out of me when you say you failed the first test 3 times. Then you say there’s level 2 and level 3… Do you think I would have a better chance at creating a petition for an easier test?Oh I realize Andy is the authority on this stuff. I just find silver problems interesting and still sort of confusing to me. I know a lot of people who use guns that are 15 years old and often not even gravity feed and they have no problems with the silver or gold. But I see it all the time. One of my customers got their Hyundai Genesis from the dealership a few years ago and the hood and trunk got messed up.
Oh well maybe it’s the distance, or maybe overlap, who knows. I used a new Sata twice for base and clear and I sort of felt that the supernova made a finer spray, I’m sure it’s impossible to tell but that made me think that I want another supernova for base. But if you say the Sata is obviously less finicky than maybe that’s the way to do it. I use a Sagola clear gun for base but I don’t want to buy a new cap because it’ll cost me as much as the gun.
Well if your Sata uses less material, why don’t you lower the material in the Iwata. I shoot silver like a normal base colour but I lower fluid, pressure and add extra reducer, then for good measure I try to shoot cross ways on hoods. I don’t know if you were talking about solvent or not but maybe this explains something. But I mean whatever fuck it. New Sata for base and new Iwata for clear sounds sexy.