Pierce
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Okay I’m pretty sure these guys are all in big shops with a lot of room. I know a lot of people who can do a considerable amount of body work then mask and shoot all inside the booth with out getting a single spec of dust in a normal far-side fan booth. I’m not sure what all the tricks are but I’m told time and time again that if you put a lot of water all over the work space you’ll be alright.
I’m really interested in this. So you use this to tack the car off after every coat of paint/ clear coat? Or do you tack and use this at the same time? Or do you just use it one time right after masking?
Which one did you end up buying? I see they have 3 different levels.Putting putty over day old paint seems really stupid but it isn’t! It’s honestly the only way I know how to get a run 100% out. If someone knows a better way please tell me.
I was using the basic 3m sand paper and I found that the 800 scratches that I didn’t go over with the pad came out a little brighter. And I don’t really work up to 1000, I cut the primer a bit with 800, then 1000 for a while around the 800 then I go back to the pad, sometimes I won’t even cut the primer if it’s in low light.
Huh, I’ve found that sanding wet shows less scratches than sanding dry, regardless I think if you sanded 800 dry on light silver you would definitely see it. Maybe Nexon pads are closer to 2000, I’m not sure.
And Andy, our systems are almost the same but I scuff everything before I clean it up. I then have a roll of blue shop paper towels, I rip one off dunk it in water then wash the car, as soon as it gets dirty I toss it to my feet and get a new one. Once I’m done I’ll rip off a dry one and dust off the remains of the, now dry, residue. Then there will still probably be a white streak here and there that the wax remover will get rid of once I’m done masking. I know it seems silly to change a system to save a few seconds here and there but when you don’t get paid by the hour and you have to finish painting half a car, body work, prep and paint before 6, cutting seconds out off a system makes this actually possible.
I’ve spoke about this on other threads that my creed isn’t to neglect the little things because the little things are what sets you apart from everyone else. But hey I don’t want you to think I’m some sort of hot shot, I understand that there’s a very good chance that you can do what I do just better and faster. I could of just misunderstood what you were describing. I really don’t want to sound like a dick by critiquing people I just notice I had a nice little path when I work on cars that gets me the bare minimum really quickly.Yeah I found ever since I’ve been using these pads I’ve never had an issue with paint peeling off when I’m unmasking. Not even one time.
I have a theory about adhesion and that’s that it doesn’t really matter what grit you sand with because sand scratches in general are all you need.
And nope grey pads will not even get you close to 800 dry. When I do bright silver I have to bring body work to 1000 wet for it to match the pad prepped area.I also wouldn’t mind to know your system for cleaning once you’re done. I have to wash the car with wet shop towels then dry it off and begin masking.
You made a mistake, you primed on unsanded areas, then sanded the primer into the panel. So some of the primer is not bonded mechanically, it’s just hanging there.
The moral of this story is don’t work harder than you have to but make sure you get the minimum amount of work in at the same time.
Well try shooting it wetter (closer/ slower/ more overlap), also remember to shake the clear for a count of 100. Another tip is to add more heat, if the car is already painted let it sit in the sun for a while. Flat black attracts heat like nothing else so it should bake the stripes off it. After a week of it under the sun, give it a wash with decreaser and you should notice and improvement if not a removal of the previous imperfections.
I also find that when shooting this stuff really wet it is hard to keep up with the wet edge so maybe that would be reason enough to figure out how to shoot this stuff dry (while still being close as to not make a smooth finish).
I’m from Toronto, Canada and I’m looking for a job as a painter. I can do body work no problem and I have a little experience with mechanical stuff too.
Yeah I guess that works, I’m sure if you really pepped up the motor and waited 10 years that thing would be worth a lot of money. Pureply speculation but it could be like those old VW vans from Barrett Jacksons.
I think I understand what you’re saying. Right above the start of the top color you can see the clear coat turning white and flaking off? I recommend you chip all that white stuff off before you go and get a quote. But if you want to have a better base with no old paint or clear coat on it, there are places that will sand blast and epoxy your entire car for a reasonable price.
Oh okay I didn’t realize we were calling ’91 classic, it feels weird to say that.
And I don’t know if those 700 dollar paint jobs are in some house garage but from the pictures on Kijiji it looks like a pretty big clean shop. I figured that they were charging a bunch for body work and there would be a bunch of other extras to be conned into. I think that that buisness model could work if you worked very very fast and advertised really well. At that price you can start convincing people that paint jobs are more of a car hygiene thing. (example: My car is 10 years old, I see a few scratches and I see a rust spec on the rocker panel, I think it’s time for my cars regular maintenance paint job.)
And what do you mean delaminated? I’ve heard of clear on early 90s GM cars coming off but on the top half, but not the bottom?
I don’t understand why you want it stripped but you should look on Kijiji for painter’s ads. I’ve seen a few people doing paint jobs for under 700 dollars. I know there’s highschools and colleges that take in cars to paint for free or really cheap.
You really shouldn’t be investing more than 1000 dollars into a car from ’91, who knows what could happen to it.
Well I asked Carquest what the clear kit would cost me for the Glasurit and they said 700 dollars… I got my Matrix Systems clear for about 70 dollars, so this was pretty shocking for me. I think SPI would be around 200-250 if I could find a jobber. They said you shouldn’t use a 1.3 tip but I think I might be able to do it in Northern climates.
Yeah I hope people use this thread too. I posted it on other websites and got some good replies with some commonalities. The folks at hotrodders.com seem to all be using either all SPI products or at least their epoxy and universal clear.
Len from Autobodystore said that he likes BASF Glasurit, Evercoat’s Slick Sand (spray poly), and Indasa Roll Sandpaper.Do you use a Mirka DA Buzz? Those things look like quite the tool, something you could do a home project with then bring it to work and be sanding with the best of ’em. I love how you can change the speed with your left hand and keep working with your right hand, all the while having a vacuum suck all the dust through the paper… All DAs should have a remote for your left hand, like how hard would that actually be?
Alright I was painting a fender today and I think the texture is coming from the base coat, I think the clear is actually pretty smooth. I changed some things up but I think the main one was that I didn’t realize how close you actually had to be with this gun.
I’m looking at a new base gun and I see a lot of used supernovas. Then when I look up prices for a new lph400 orange cap, they’re the same as a new supernova. Whats that supposed to mean? People put up supernovas on ebay but not the orange cap base gun?
I shot base perfect with a 20 year old devilbliss so I wouldn’t mind minimizing. Does anyone know other guns that work really well for base?