tim kupec
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Oh and you want a nice constant sizzle sound, the weld should penetrate to the back side. Start by just firing up and building a nice hot pool of metal then proceed by dragging the gun at an angle making horse shoe type movements. Maybe you could have someone who is a welder watch and even guide your hands while your welding to give you a feel of what to do.
Open the door where the spool of wire is, there you will find suggested starting settings for the gauge of steel you are practicing on. This gives a good starting point to fine tune your feed and amps. You will know when your setup is right by practicing. Good clean sheet metal is what you should try on, and probably a little on the thick side, then when your laying beads confidently move on to thinner stuff.
Our restoration guy uses the 1.3 iawata with sikkens. Most of the completes he does in pieces, however he does his share of taxi cabs [crown victorias] and budget completes all together. He actually adds accelerator to the clear, it acts as a retarder keeping the film open longer before it kicks. Im not nuts clear with accelerator stays wet longer giving him time to work around the car with the slower gun, he sure lays down slick clear coat so i guess its worth the extra couple minutes in the booth verses a mop job.
[b]bloverby wrote:[/b]
[quote]This guy will do anything to get something sold on Craigslist.http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/pts/994421872.html%5B/quote%5D
Id give 30 bucks to see him shit one:lol:my obese dog:) [img size=600]http://refinishnetwork.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/PICT0033.JPG[/img]
Attachments:I like the paint jimmo, i think the subtle hue difference looks good, i see black with silver fade from bottom around here which looks cheesy to me but i like what ya did here.
Hey bondo i could show 100 floor samples without prices to my wife and she would without a doubt fall in love with and have to have the most expensive one.:S- AuthorPosts