tim kupec
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what ya wanna know jo? Id start by rolling that window down to make sure the glass isnt hitting the beam.
http://usatoolsinc.com/thesluggerheavydutyslidehammer.aspx That is a slide hammer but you say yours came with your stud gun. I like the cam action ones for the studs and the slugger for wheel lips and knocking the crap outta stuff.
Indeed, and their graphic solution works very well too.
Howdy, this is the friendliest and the most knowledgeable sites on the web.
The keystone fenders fit them years chevy trucks better than the GM ones. :wak
Yep just as i suspected, the ole draggin ass jeep scenario. What about that slide hammer joe? :lol1 Just kidding i think if ya posted these pics with the puller question the guys here might have thought your money would be better spent paying a shop with a rack to do the frame repairs.
Is that a grand cherokee with a trailer hitch hit? Typical short rails with kinks at wheel arch? If so its gonna take about 4-5000 psi rearward and push upwards at the same time and some windows in the floor to vibrate them rails in order to fix it correctly. Not sure if that puller is gonna do it.
You couldnt get a pair of mirrors painted for 195 around here. :wak
:stoned :smoke :stoned Wow, thats not a restoration its a rebuild.
lesonal is under 150 here, i think you were priced the autocryl sikkens
Please keep in mind this is about a $1500 car undamaged. I think you really should consider the free route of racking, pulling, pushing, beating a little bit first. :whistle:
Again very nice fit. Im kinda anal about body work, so much so that i really dont like going to small none national car shows to look at all the half-assed crap. :wak I truly appreciate your efforts on doing it right! Well done bud.
You may want to inspect the suspension closely, its possible theres damage to it also. Spot welds can be cut simply by purchasing a spot weld cutting drill bit no need to buy a special tool, just use a 110 volt electric drill to avoid high speed and 1 bit will last a long time. You may want to gut the trunk interior and take a few whacks at that dent with a 2×4 and big hammer, maybe straighten that one versus replacing if your instructor could possibly give you a little guidance.
I think welding is best but sonic bond is just friggin awesome. http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd-sonic-bond-plastic-repair-adhesive.cfm