tim kupec

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Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 186 total)
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  • December 20, 2009 at 10:10 pm #18104

    Very nice work your posting! It must be kinda fun having customers willing to pay for killer jobs like these.

    December 19, 2009 at 6:01 am #18061

    Not a bad idea, but cost prohibitive using automotive grade in my opinion. I would not do it using great stuff type household foam.

    December 15, 2009 at 7:37 am #17911

    Nice stuff! :welc

    December 15, 2009 at 6:51 am #17905

    Well what ya got for tools? It isnt necessary to spend $100 for a disk or a hammer and waffle dolly. I hear good things about the disks but the shrinking hammers and dollies [spiral or waffle type] simply dont work on heavy sheet steel like your working on a 67. If you have a unispotter type stud gun you can use it by simply holding the trigger extra long on the highest spots in your repair, you can use an oxy acetylene torch to heat and quench it or even a small hand held propane torch. In a pinch you can just weld a small bead on it with your mig to suck it up.

    December 9, 2009 at 6:54 am #17660

    To minimize waves its best to spread your filler over large areas, avoid a little here a little there and a little in the middle of some youve already had down. I fill the worst parts and just air file or hog it with 40 grit, just really knocker flat ya know. Then when it feels pretty good go ahead and spread the entire panel end to end. This is when the long boards come out and i strike it flat by hand with 80 grit using the longest blocks feasible. Now that it feels damn straight i spread the whole panel again with a glaze type product and block that with 120 grit again using long blocks. Now you can continue on with finer papers using only blocks until its in 220 grit and prime with surfacer or just spray poly it and block on that for awhile for insurance before primer. Again only sand your primer by hand with the longest blocks possible. When its painted and cleared you should also use blocks for color sand and buff. Which reverts back to stones comment about blocking and reclearing the car, i think what he was stating is that if after painting there are still some very minor quivers you could block those out with like 800-1000 and squirt some more clear.

    December 5, 2009 at 11:33 pm #17548

    Bondo talked ya into fornicating a sheep last night didnt he. :exci 👿 😛

    November 30, 2009 at 4:04 am #17346

    well it looks good except omaha 68114 is in nebraska not north carolina

    November 28, 2009 at 8:13 pm #17304

    Nice. Do you bent tubing by hand? If so id like to see your rig, im thinkin about building me a bike frame or several if my project goes well.

    November 26, 2009 at 10:23 pm #17262

    Ive seen your stuff in prior threads and it is very nice, your moulding skills are worth alot more $. Jeez the cheesy stuff thats supposed to be made for certain makes in crutchfield is outrageous priced and not near your calibur.

    November 26, 2009 at 9:55 pm #17259

    That is cool id imagine with this there is less ripping which is easy to do with other tools. I have pretty good success with the wiggle wire i weld on with our prospot then use a bear claw puller, but this looks better.

    November 25, 2009 at 6:42 am #17202

    I think you bought some old stock thats probably been frozen before. Get your money back.

    November 25, 2009 at 6:27 am #17198

    HI

    November 22, 2009 at 10:34 pm #17142

    Id say you did an over the top crazy good job on that. :clappy Now get yourself a camaro 😉

    November 22, 2009 at 9:57 pm #17137

    Well :pcorn: lets see the only pearl white corsica in canada

    November 22, 2009 at 1:05 am #17124

    keep on chuggin, i can remember when i was ambitious like you once upon a time. cant wait to see her done :pcorn:

Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 186 total)