tim kupec
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Well what ya got for tools? It isnt necessary to spend $100 for a disk or a hammer and waffle dolly. I hear good things about the disks but the shrinking hammers and dollies [spiral or waffle type] simply dont work on heavy sheet steel like your working on a 67. If you have a unispotter type stud gun you can use it by simply holding the trigger extra long on the highest spots in your repair, you can use an oxy acetylene torch to heat and quench it or even a small hand held propane torch. In a pinch you can just weld a small bead on it with your mig to suck it up.
To minimize waves its best to spread your filler over large areas, avoid a little here a little there and a little in the middle of some youve already had down. I fill the worst parts and just air file or hog it with 40 grit, just really knocker flat ya know. Then when it feels pretty good go ahead and spread the entire panel end to end. This is when the long boards come out and i strike it flat by hand with 80 grit using the longest blocks feasible. Now that it feels damn straight i spread the whole panel again with a glaze type product and block that with 120 grit again using long blocks. Now you can continue on with finer papers using only blocks until its in 220 grit and prime with surfacer or just spray poly it and block on that for awhile for insurance before primer. Again only sand your primer by hand with the longest blocks possible. When its painted and cleared you should also use blocks for color sand and buff. Which reverts back to stones comment about blocking and reclearing the car, i think what he was stating is that if after painting there are still some very minor quivers you could block those out with like 800-1000 and squirt some more clear.
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