tim kupec
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👿 i like it :woohoo:
Do ya wanna borrow my 10 inch drywall knife? Not shitting you i have one in my box. :rock :cheersWell done ding. Thats the one that was trashed in the cowl right? :clappy B)
the tin looks great, hope he doesnt dick it up during assembly for ya. 😉
Do to owner wanting more profit on materials ive been on it for a short time 80&180 da paper. Ummm i guess it cuts good without clogging too bad and wears ok. The down side would be the adhesive as it doesnt really adhere to the pad very good, even really clean new pads. I also have been trying sunmight paper which i think is a better product, especially their continuous roll paper. Keep in mind this is the coarser paper that weve been cheaping out on, nothing finer than 360 because these lines in fine paper are crap IMO.
Weve also been playing with cheaper fillers and i gotta say that i cant find any difference between evercoat products specifically zgrip + 416 metal glaze and keystones comparable fillers. Im convinced its the same stuff under generic labels no kidding, much cheaper too.i wanna see the tail lamp fitted before mud 😛 :exci :smoke :cheers :clappy :pcorn: :jesus :rock gotta luv these smiles dont ya 😉 oh i forgot this one :X
Wanna learn a whole lot for $80? Buy rons dvds, very informative for anyone. I attended his class in indianapolis in 1999 and he helped me truly understand metal. Before his knowledge was soaked up i was like everyone else tacking-warping-filling the crap outta things which works but its not purdy like it should be. Mig welding vid #1000-22 and basic steel working #1000-3. http://www.covell.biz/
my wife is :wak [img]http://www.refinishnetwork.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/3677619049_018b59c8c7_o.jpg[/img]
Yep thats sick, very good detail. Your a talented man foe sure!!
well done stone :cheers
Dont hammer and dolly too much without annealing {heat} first, it will crack-split. It doesnt appear too bad in the pic so heat shouldnt be necessary if you hit it like only like 3 times. Dont smash the hem completely flat because it WILL crack. Even if you do your only talking a little mig action and a buff with 80 grit, piece of cake really. Aluminum can absolutely be repaired and anyone who told you it cant has absolutely no clue. I find most replies dishing out advice on 101 totally inaccurate and humorous, down right appalling actually. Stick with this site for correct answers. 😉
looks like its shiny good enough for me
PPG has a graffiti proof clear for industrial like locomotives and such would be good for the bat. The stuff is harder than a wedding dick, cannot be buffed though.
Im surprised you didnt straighten that :whistle: Or just tug it a little then scab the corner on it. 👿 :rofl :smoke
That is childs play :lol1 not a train wreck at all. Should be a real gravy job, profit maker.
He should settle for no less than what he would sell the car for in preloss condition of course less the 20% it takes to retain the car. Its just swayed a bit not bad really probably dont even need a core support. Have it pulled and kinks removed at a shop for $1000, then hang a tong yang doghouse.