tim kupec
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That is an old school hammer weld B) Its done by heating the pieces red hot and smashing them together with a hammer and dolly. The brazing was done just to tack it together where he wanted before the hammer weld. Again if this is stuck good leave it, but i would give it a first smudge with reinforced filler such as fibretech by evercoat just to keep that seem from ghosting. Or just go ahead and remove the brass which is very soft-easy to grind out and mig it solid if your not sure.
I agree with leaving it and everything kevin said. Blast clean then epoxy primer then filler.
looks good. i still say tint the windows :kiss:
lookin good, i have a portable mixer ya can borrow but youll have to come pick it up.
ya jimmo that would look good, do some stripes down the sides and the engine cover also. Them windows need some limo tint too. That little boat has good lines and will look sharp with a nice paint job.
well i just aced the ase refinish test this spring and failed yours miserably, good thing im not a painter huh
Did ya paint that stuff ding or is it decals? Looks good either way, gonna have puppet shows and fun things outta it?
[b]pnlbtr4life wrote:[/b]
[quote]Remember the all new, very first intrepids they were that goldish-brownish-gray color cant recall the code 1990something, didnt the commercials claim healing paint? Or was i just really high back then :unsure:[/quote]
1993, chargold satin glow, was likely high :woohoo:Remember the all new, very first intrepids they were that goldish-brownish-gray color cant recall the code 1990something, didnt the commercials claim healing paint? Or was i just really high back then :unsure:
I use it on bare metal spots created by removing panels. New parts are left alone and i just burn thru the factory primer- ecoat. No sense in grinding entire flanges, the least amount of bare metal the better in regards to corrosion resistance. An aresol of primer lasts me about a year welding panels on almost daily. Actually i use spies redbrown not zinc because it can be top coated unlike the zinc. When done welding before sending to paint i use the wand with epoxy and drench inside rockers and such. After paint and before assembly i use regular rust proof with another wand gun, we have lots of road salt around here so a guy needs to be diligent in regards to corrosion protection. We get paid for doing it to. 😉
We also prefer 3m because it gets hard enough to core wheel sqeeze out to take paint-seam sealer, also works best when weld bonding is needed. The fusor brand panel bond is kinda gummy and not paintable, too much clean up time. The Wurth i tried a sample of was ok i guess.
Your a stud if ya didnt blend the door on that explorer, does she match outside?
Its RIM reaction injected molded polyurethane. As long as your adhesive covers the poly i think your good. We refinish just as you would a bumper.
We work on everything so i really dont have a favorite, the biggest POS on the road is Suzuki and the biggest PITA is probably Saab in my opinion. Unlike Han I find benz and bmw really quick and easy to detrim, however dash replacement/50 airbags and drivetrains are a little more involved. I also dont think Kia is all that bad on their late model stuff, comparable quality to the japan makes and they offer excellent collision repair manual information for free.
I know these guys http://www.powdercoatingunlimited.com/ they tried to offer it or similar product but after exhausting experimentation and big $$$$ spent like joe says it just wasnt always the desired look of real chrome so they gave up.