tim kupec
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Slowed up here some what, but i been workin like a dog on trainwrecks to make a check.
[b]bloverby wrote:[/b]
[quote]Just tell the guy to go out and buy a gt-350 fibeglass hood. Or,,, tell him to keep what he has and have the visible seam. Or,,,, make a scoop outta steel. A hood is tough to bond something to without it cracking later.[/quote]
i agree, throw that scoop away. Exactly how many hours does it take to strip a 65 mustang with a 1inch roloc?:PThat is gravy my friend, dont ya wish they where all like that.
You did try an OEM fender after the car was set up there and the original fender removed right.? If you havnt checked this AFTER you removed the original fender i definitely would as they are stiff enough to hold things together. Looks like maybe you got a case of the rotator jacking those flimsy front rails out of datum, i hope its just crappy fenders but the pics depict the body lines and fender bottoms also cockeyed which is why i ask.
your a true showman bondo, i enjoy your vids 🙂
I think you may want to let that go. Cowl hit like that is junk. Buy one that is hit left or rear and use the parts from this one. I cant see coming out on it even with free parts, hundreds of man hours.;)
Hell id just duct tape the holes lay some mat in there and pour about 1/4 inch of resin in. Fixed in about 15 minutes. :laugh:
What panel bonding brand do you use over there nick? I assume you glued to the flange you left under the drip, thats what id do too.
:laugh: :laugh: Nope, slightly more computer literate than that. Thanks for reply though.
Not really a problem but ill bitch anyhow. I have a 23in monitor and only your site appears only in the center, like 1/3 of screen. Now i dont know crap about computers or this monitor [so be nice k] but since the upgrade this is what i got. Could you tell me how to remedy this?
what ding saidB) but id write replace left frame horn, think they pay 2.5
Throw them in the booth during a bake to warm em. Plastic titties like yanking more when they are nice and toasty.
Did you buff them, they look slick. Now go spend $300 on handles and they will look awesome.
nice hinge is that yours or a kit?
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]How do you know when to turn the wire speed up or down? What about the current?[/quote]
By the way its burning, if the wire is burning back into the nozzle its too slow. If the wire is pushing against the work its too fast. Now this can be adjusted by moving the nozzle closer or farther away slightly also. Penetration is determined by the amps, higher for thicker steel, lower setting on thinner material. Because all welders are different you set the starting amps via the CHART on the machine, adjust wire speed to achieve the quick sizzle sound [no burn back or pushing] then lay a bead. Examine the weld, if penetrating the back then its good, if not bump the amps up which will likely require a faster feed speed. If your blowing holes the amps are too high, or your moving too slow. When mig welding steel the gun is dragged along, aluminum it is pushed, but thats a hole other story. Also guys freak out over vertical and over head welding thinking the amps or wire speed must be adjusted, this simply isnt true the setting remains exactly the same no matter what position the weld is. I wish i could give you a hands on lesson because mig welding really is a simple task but i cant so you will have to practice until you get it.