john

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  • November 29, 2012 at 9:11 pm #39465

    They even took the time to blend the door on this one.

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    November 21, 2012 at 4:51 pm #39347

    [quote=”whoknowsbrad” post=28390]shop line jc630 clear and the hardner fast,med,or slow 4:1 mix get the gal kit for 115 it worksreally well[/quote]

    Shopline JC630 or JC620. Both work well.

    November 18, 2012 at 5:48 pm #39319

    Shopline JC60 made by PPG is $13.00 a sprayable quart. Not a bad clear.

    November 6, 2012 at 7:44 pm #38924

    Not a bad clear. How long do you give the basecoat to dry? How long between coats of clear?

    October 5, 2012 at 3:57 pm #38487

    [quote=”jimmo” post=27611]I did apply a drop coat, I don’t always tho. I don’t recall the recommendations, hopefully it will be out the door soon. lol

    I have mixed feelings about it, in the cross-draft I usually hate it, the last few days have been wet out and it’s taking 20 minutes to flash off (with blowers). I have to dust on 50 dry coats odg style instead of applying it wet, maybe he’s on to something,,,,,,, ……. haha.[/quote]

    If you have heat put it in winter mode at 85 degrees. It snaps the humidity out of the air. Not for nothing I don’t care for Onyx at all.

    October 2, 2012 at 11:34 pm #38455

    A clean car, a clean booth, a clean painter equals a clean job.

    September 30, 2012 at 11:24 pm #38437

    [quote=”billgaino” post=27560]Do you do a drop coat? If so do you color sand, lightly after the last coat?

    EB I never touch my basecoat with paper, maybe a tack cloth, but seldom. I use Matrix clear, it is economical and spays nicley. You have to be careful with a dropcoat. If you lay it dry, it will cloud. I keep my silver base wet so the flake lays. My anser is NO to the dropcoat, unless I have obvious cloudiness.[/quote]

    I always scuff my base coat with 1200 grit. Water or solvent. I’d rather get out as much in the basecoat than buff later.

    September 27, 2012 at 1:56 am #38398

    I have never sprayed a more user friendly product with great color match than I have found with Envirobase.

    September 27, 2012 at 1:52 am #38396

    I have 18 years experience as a Technical Rep and have found Chromabase to be the worst to spray. JMO.

    September 17, 2012 at 10:19 pm #38322

    I would give that approach a couple of months. Cut out the rusted metal and weld new metal.

    September 17, 2012 at 10:16 pm #38321

    Interesting. I never demo with Sata anymore. I find the Iwata and Tekna to be my choice.

    September 2, 2012 at 9:11 pm #38100

    Where are you located? If you are in a dry area (very little humidity) you will need the slow reducer. Typically two coats of color and one control coat is enough. 90% overlap. Your control coat should not be wet and look more like 320 grit droplets until it is dry. Remember BIG OVERLAP.

    September 2, 2012 at 9:03 pm #38099

    In 1978 your car was painted with solvent b/c. You might get a better match with solvent unless you plan to paint the whole car.

    August 28, 2012 at 4:36 am #38080

    Palm Beach County.

    August 27, 2012 at 6:52 pm #38072

    Your best bet would be epoxy. Epoxy seals off moisture and gives you the best corrosion protection.

Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 45 total)