Steve Baran

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Viewing 13 posts - 136 through 148 (of 148 total)
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  • October 18, 2011 at 8:07 am #33630

    Why not just slow down the activator.

    Should allow you to put on a thinner smoother coat that will dry quicker.

    October 18, 2011 at 6:41 am #33616

    [quote=”bloverby” post=23070]My Nexa rep. always corrects me whenever I call an “orientation coat” for aquabase a “drop coat”. :nothingtoad[/quote]

    Ask him to explain the difference. 👿

    October 18, 2011 at 5:08 am #33613

    [quote=”jeremyb” post=23062]Good explanation, but with proper gun adjustment, spraying technique, and reducer selection there is no need for drop coats, assuming you are using a quality base system. On lower quality systems, I’ve seen guy sword fight their way through an all over achieve a uniform metallic finish. Beats me why they keep using the stuff.[/quote]

    Ever spray a single stage metallic?

    October 17, 2011 at 5:49 pm #33603

    Can be open to interpretation, but usually involves lowering the air pressure a bit and or backing the gun away from the surface. What you’re really trying to do is get bigger droplets of paint with more solvent/water in the to land on the surface and have time to smooth themselves out. This (in theory) keeps the metallic from bunching and pooling.

    October 17, 2011 at 6:19 am #33593

    My fathers driving around a 66 El Camino that I did with auto clear circa 1991.

    A JGA with a 1.4 tip and 9000 cap will put even an RP to shame.

    October 17, 2011 at 4:24 am #33590

    3+1 LOL

    What about auto nova filler. Cars still smelled years after when they came in for another repair.

    I would like to see some MS clears and how they look next to today’s chemistry.

    October 17, 2011 at 4:11 am #33588

    [quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=11845][b]steve k wrote:[/b]
    [quote]Wow that brings back memories…Autobase, and the old turn-style mixing machines[/quote]

    Oh god I remember the spinning towers. That’s old school mixing![/quote]

    I resmble that remark.

    And I fondly remember 1-2-3 reducer. :dnc

    October 17, 2011 at 4:02 am #33587

    For sure a copy of the SATA RCS.

    I’ll stick with a squirt bottle of thinner and a good horse hair brush.

    October 17, 2011 at 3:51 am #33585

    Also consider the Devilbiss SRi Pro.

    Comes with either an HVLP air cap or an RP type.

    October 16, 2011 at 11:43 pm #33574

    [quote=”tcsauto” post=19033]So what`s the difference between the RP & the B?[/quote]

    RP is hybrid of HVLP and high pressure.

    B is HVLP.

    August 15, 2010 at 6:41 pm #23932

    “Just like magic”

    :rofl

    August 14, 2010 at 8:57 pm #23901

    [b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
    [quote][b]Han wrote:[/b]
    [quote]Dudes, forget the booths, learn to cut and buff. :birth1[/quote]

    Booo! Buffing sucks :rofl[/quote]

    +1 😉

    August 14, 2010 at 8:53 pm #23900

    The lizards have their place in the market cuz I’m sure not painting any panels or bumpers for $75.

Viewing 13 posts - 136 through 148 (of 148 total)