Steve Baran
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You’ll find the Primer PO LV works quite well. Make it easy on yourself and dedicate a gun for it and keep it full.
[quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=26594]Just a quick auto clean question. I have been told not to use it to wipe down panels before painting because it can cause fisheyes and adhesion problems? Anyone have any input for me?[/quote]
Proper towels make all the difference with Autoclean. Fisheyes are from inadequate removal of it. Usually a telltale of this is white wipe marks on the about to be painted object.
Mixing it with distilled water or Autowave activator can also help minimize this issue. I’ve ben using Autoclean only for years now with zero issues.
[quote=”Ben” post=26577]
Just got news that Sikkens is discontinuing one of their best products, the All Plastic Adhesion Promoter. No news if they will come out with an alternative, so we will have to go back to the primer PO and Plastoflex primers for plastics.
[/quote]There’s good reasoning behind it:
1) Most painters did not use APAP properly. Meaning they did not add EOA.
2) PO has slightly better system performance and is now the only adpro needed.
3) Your jobber should have a pretty good supply of APAP.
4) Many painters were/are applying it on metal parts and getting less than desirable results due to the fast solvent in APAP.
5) This will allow YOU to control the activator speed to better suit the job and temp.
Ben,
Are you in a regulated VOC market?
Technically “dead man’s curve” is on Sunset Blvd….LOL
i would 80 grit it back down and get a good Polyester primer (U-Pol Reface works well at a reasonable price), several coats to ensure a good stable surface.
But you really need to figure out wha went wrong before commencing a repair. Without it possibly repeating the past could be in the future.
Ouch, this is looking like a real headache.
Open a fresh blister and smell it, what does it smell like?
What year is the car? What kind of car?
Somethings leading me towards airline contamination.
DP (or any other primer) does NOT go over broken fiberglass. It must be sealed off with either gel or polyester primer.
[quote=”DailyDrivenMini” post=26518]I will give it 24 hours. I will make you proud; just wait till tomorrow late night.
Thank you again for all the help!
-Michael[/quote]
Take a piece of 800 and knock the shiny off the run, this will make it easier for the solvent to escape and help the run cure through a bit better. If you don’t, you run (LOL) the risk of tearing the run off with the razor until you get some practice.
So i understand correctly, you removed all paint layers and the gel-coat?
Did you see/expose the glass fibers? If so, did you re-apply gel-coat or polyester primer?
So the bond came off too?
At what layer does the bubble start?
Your problem is likely in between those layers.
How are you measuring the paint thickness on a fiberglass car?
10 mils is flirting with danger. Not lack of adhesion danger but cracking danger (especially is you live in the sunbelt).
From your description, it sounds like a system failure, meaning YOU made a mistake. Common issues are poor application and removal of degreaser, mixing product lines, short flash times, or poor drying between layers.
Great advice so far.
Hard to say but it looks as though either someone did a spot repair without clear coat (also known as single stage) or the clear came off in that area. Either way it’s a simple fix.
Upon further examination of the pics, I’m leaning towards the clear coming off. If you keep polishing it eventually you’ll wear through the color. Get it “spotted in” and call it done.
[img]http://www.refinishnetwork.com/images/photos/1764/109/thumb_abf012b458a850249af9dff2.jpg[/img]
Another operating room. :rofl
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