Steve Baran
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I said I was not a “tech rep”. 😉
They changed the names to be consistent with the rest of the line. No change on what is in the can.
Consider trying the 2pak version of the HSLV, much more user friendly and even cheaper to buy. Plus you don’t need reducers on hand. Does your booth bake?
Couple of questions:
1) why use HS+LV ? There are other choices. What part of the country are you in?
2) setting up Mixit Pro on your own can be a very big task especially since many of the buttons do not appear to be buttons. Do you have Internet access for that computer? What version of Pro is installed?
HS+LV can be a finicky bitch, it really depends upon material on the panel for flow and you need to be deliberate about how you do it. A controlled fan, air pressure, and proper routing will help. Adding EOA will help the flash off rate too. The solvents have not been changed in HSLV if you’re comparing it to HS+, it’s a completely different product.
You mentioned an LPH, not the best choice as it does not deliver all that much material to the surface further making the fast flashing clear flash even faster.
Even if you’re in a regulated market, there are several other choices.
As for Mixit Pro, there are some things missing that Mixit2 could do but they are minor and the benefits far outweigh those.
You can call 770-798-8619 and talk to Steve Pemberton at Akzo. He can help you with all things Mixit Pro
Comparing formulas side by side.
Mixing by the ounce.
Less locking/freezing up.
Faster info to the shop via Internet updates.
Making your own color library and telling it where and if you have a spray out.
Not having to return your waste to the scale to record VOCs.[quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=23523][quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=23508]I feel the same way about the CVI. The Tekna is good for clear but I would pick the Iwata or Sata above it. If you really like the Supernova I wouldn’t let under a hundred bucks sway you.
Do you need a cup with the Nova Underpaid? If not you can get it for $535 here
http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=LS400%5B/quote%5DWow thats a good price! No I dont need cup. Have you ever ordered from coastairbrush? Do they have a good rep?[/quote]
Yeah, I’ve ordered from Coast, like every month. Dave Monnig the owner is a super guy, totally into the paint scene and taking care of his customers. Visiting the store he treats everyone like he knows them. You should have no reservations dealing with him.
Put a good regulator on the wall, set it ten higher than you want at the gun and call it done. Those add on dig’s are not worth the weight.
As for the Adam, it gets in my way too.
Yup, digi lover here too.
Still think that the 3k RP is the best yet. JMO
http://www.rmpaint.com/documents/en_UK/pdf/tech_infos/ONYX_HD.pdf
Maybe this will help.
I’d think a 1.6 would be difficult to throttle down and the risk of pooling and runs would be great. Never mind that you may have a hard time with color accuracy.
[quote=”ding” post=23415]look for a used air makeup system[/quote]
No doubt, right now I know of 5 heated downgrades for sale all under 10k. Follow Jimmo’s advice.
Well, getting orange peel can be from a lot of factors;
Too far away
Moving too fast
Too fast drying product
Poor atomization
Going over something that has texture (like poorly sprayed base)
Gun setup wrong
Not enough air VOLUME to the gunReducing the clear will lower the viscosity, making it easier for the spray gun to shear the liquid stream into droplets. Requiring more coats to get the necessary film build expected. It will also put you outside VOC compliance, this may not be an issue (for you personally) but the stores cannot recommend it, or they could be held liable.
So if you can’t get all the other factors dialed in to your liking, adding a bit of reducer is a option. Plan on that extra coat, and I’d personally get the best and cleanest reducer you can to do the job, you don’t want any other crap in there laying around to change performance of the clear. Try to stick to a medium to fast solvent as you also don’t want it hanging around in the paint film any longer than to get on the surface and get out.
Hope that helps…
Yup, buying 911 Collision.
Look on you tube for a video by Brian Lynch.
It’s an excellent starting point.
http://store.airbrushaction.com/products/DeVilbiss-Spray-Gun-Handling-Techniques.html
[quote=”530dentdude” post=23318]Some toners yes others seem about quarter off the price but definitely cheaper! Plus I can get major deals on diamont and onyx!!cheaper then local suppliers cost! So u think it would about even out and stick with onyx?[/quote]
The issue is the water toners get let down, the solvent toners are for the most part ready to reduce and spray.
Support you local jobber and buy both.
LOL
Half price?
Somethings not right.
You’re gonna blaze through toners faster than ever.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=23313]An rp is super quiet compared to an old devilbiss jga at 55psi :rofl Your lucky you didn’t have to use the old high pressure conventional guns :P[/quote]
Yeah, but then you miss all the really good paint that was easy to use. Oh, what I couldn’t do with a gallon of acrylic enamel.
Where’s some 580S?
DCA468 anyone?
(edit)
How could I forget Velvaseal.
In the right hands they will produce the same result the RP just getting the job done much faster.