O MC Kenna
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:lol1 place for em !
Then splash him with eau de solvent , in any colour!Upol used to do a product called grip4 , in both aerosol and wipes. It was supposed to be for the very issue your discussing , adhesion around door handles , window rubbers and general lazy to reach places!
Don’t know how well it worked to be honest.
You could also try a 2k transparent sealer , most decent paint companies make it, which also gives excellent adhesion.Sounds a bit of a challenge alright ! As far as I understand the inlet fan should be a little more powerful than the exhaust fan as you don’t want a negative pressure which leads to dust problems through small cracks , light openings , door gaps etc. And especially when you open the door to leave the booth. Try and make it positive pressure though the health and safety executive won’t like it
Try out green air booths , always selling their services on eBay to help design booths to people’s needs. I spoke to them once and he seems to know his stuff. Also seen a booth he made and it’s still flying after 10 years. If you’re after an air dry clear try Sherwin Williams hpc15 , without doubt the best when in the right hands and their air dry primer .
Hi, try out the Sherwin colour cube. Ideally suited to your needs , no colour chips with it though but the chips can be got for a kings ransom !
That’s shouts cheaper than the Optima, I got a couple of these guns last year both lvlp and the i.
Truthfully, I never really took to them give me Sata, Iwata any day. Bersch cost their gun in the premium market range but i’ve been really disapointed in the performance of these guns. With the 1.2 lvlp I need an extra coat of base to get a mottle free finish compared to Iwata/sata and I find the 1.3i atomisation not the best for uhs clears. I just dont find it puts on the half coat smooth enough.
Chances are I havent give them a proper go but I just cant afford the time to play around with the settings.
I havent used a lot of sata guns so maybe sata users would find their feet with it quicker.Try out mipa re active thinner, basically much the same as racing additive or de beer taping additive, it’s a thinner that accelerates the drying and reduces potlife. Beware of accelerators and rocket in fast hardeners they’re not really recommended to go together, accelerator and fast hardener can make clear a little brittle and stone chip easier and rocket can actually retard some fast hardeners.
We used to put it into every new primer kit hardener and we noticed it slowed the drying of the primer and when we questioned upol they admitted it can retard some fast hardeners.
Try out Sherwin Williams hpp air dry primer, you’ll never believe a primer can dry so fast and I’ve yet to see it sink as long as you prep well as it’s a little bit lower build than your average primer but not as much as you think. I use a lot of this and I absolutely love it ,I can have 3 coats on and nearly dry by the time I apply 3 coats of standard primer and let them flash 10 mins between coats.
Between the air dry primer and hpc15 air dry clear I can do a bigger repair job in one day without baking or extreme heat. It costs a little more but you’ll more than save it in time and fuel bills. Main thing with the air dry clear is to really hammer it on wet with low pressure and get a good build on, if you do it that way it ‘ll stay glossy, under apply or use too high of pressure and it can drop back. See can you get a demo before buying but I think you’ll like them.Sorry for coming back so late and being off topic, but yes nft5 I’m saying that some waterborne paints are soluble when exposed to more extreme conditions. I know here in Ireland we get a lot of damp rainy weather along with car washing has been proved to dissolve waterborne basecoat no matter what the paint companies say, I’ve seen it a few times and heard from other trade friends.
Products with reducers give more physical properties like durability and adhesion in these instances than a pure de ionised water.
Though a lot of companies have a clear water like reducer not to be mistaken with de ionised water.
Bonnet fronts , rear wheel arches and at the rear of the sill panel where the back wheel throws up stones are the most common areas that I seem affected with both painted in de beer and sikkens, I’m not knocking these products and I don’t know if they were painted correctly in the beginning but known the people who done the jobs, they’re pretty goodSherwin AWX has an activator also, but not really recommended for exterior use mainly under bonnet and interior areas.
I know if you left uncleared waterborne, the rain and car washing will eventually dissolve it away. Have seen several cases of waterborne washing away from stonechip areas, a few from sikkens but for some reason a fair few from de beer.
Products using pure de ionised water instead of a waterborne reducer also seem to be a little more prone to weathering if exposed.Sherwin are giving a 3 yr warranty on polycarbonate headlamps if cleared with hpc15 air dry clear, just start sanding with rougher grit to take out any chips and make your way through to the finer grits , clean and then clear.
No adhesion promoter or flex additive necessary as it’s pre flexed.
Have seen the flyer , but I haven’t used hpc15 for headlamps yet, but use it otherwise and really like it.Welcome aboard
:spraywelc:
Has anyone tried out the Optima thrifity, not convinced on the atomisation with the 1.3 i .
I feel it puts on a lot of clear if that’s what you what, but lacks that fine droplet size needed for uhs. Looks and feels the part though, maybe some more tweaking will find that sweet spot.I haven’t used the AWX performance plus yet, but they changed the 340 to 349 and 350 to 351 , added new mixing clear and 0020 reducer and over on this side that is pretty all that they have changed.
However although I haven’t used it I’m it’s new performance plus form I’m told it is a really really nice product to lay down, silver’s especially.
I always found drying in AWX to be very quick , a lot faster than sikkens, spies and even de beer .
Colour match isn’t perfect but which manufactures paint is? But on the whole matching and coverage is pretty damn good, but as stated before it’s not a standard shade every time system, you don’t even always pick the suggested colour on the prospector but flick through and pick another if it’s better, the chips are chromatically arranged to accommodate this, though the variants are usually good.Probably air line hose, but another thing that leaves black dots in waterbourne is spraying with too high of pressure, it can cause salt and pepper effect, but no a less extreme case it just shows up as black or light dots
Yeah it’s cc6 alright, only use wet on wet primer /sealer for new panels and I allow it to sit for 20 mins before basecoat.
I am using a copy of the old sikkens autobase in solvent and have started to try out sherwin AWX , the solvent base I’m not sure of as I feel it flashes off too quick and could be skinning over trapping solvent, the AWX I’m happy with as I leave it till I can denib if needed, so I’m pretty sure it’s dry. Gonna start giving it a medium bake after base coat to help dehydrate bonnets and roof’s but I feel there shouldn’t be need as fuel bills are an issue but if it works why not try it, cheaper than buffing after. Going to try out some sherwin clears soon to see how they work out, haven’t used them in a little while but to be honest I never baked them.