richard elliott
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Hey mate, say your using the 3m blue which is a anti hologram me remover, with the buff pad are you using the 3m blue waffle pad to go with it. Also and I ask are you just polishin from side to side. As you do need to go from side to side the up to down and from top left to bottom right.
Are you using a pre cleaner or detailers spray between compounds and polishe etc. once I’ve used a compound and wiped the panel down I spray water on the paint and work it in as its pills out the compound out the finer scratches so you can see and re work the areas needed, I no it sounds weird but you can to a degree polish with water and the left over compound on the pad, don’t let the compound dry on the pad keep it wet as is will put fine scratches called marring. When you say you finish with the blue 3m did you start with the green top, then yellow the blue, I’ve got the purple trizact but find it to course for black. After the blue what do you put on after that, meguiars do a machine polish glaze which is good. Or a liquid polish I do use others but there from the uk.
Hey guys I’m also on Instagram ie rikka2204. Cheers
My boss new 458 and his old 430
Hey mate no it’s an old spray bake shell, at new year I fixed the burner, walls lights and outlet fan she runs better but still not the best, yeh it’s a down draft when using waterbase takes bit longer, how you getting on with yours
This colour is awesome from a fiat, code 153/A Rossi accattivante pearl
Hey mate that’s sounds good ill have to put some pictures of the new set up and booth, with the problems with the solvent is it blends or colour matching. Do you apply a wet bed or you may allot a base fix
This is a bumper I did today, it came primed grey, so I tinted the wet on wet sealer then applied the red pearl which covered in two coats the cleared it.
Hey mate I’ve just looked at the b17 code and it says its a three stage pearl in my paint system. For this colour I’d paint the inside of the doors and bonnet, and boot plus the jams, then remark the new painted ares and the refit them back on the car, to make a clean mask, have you used a 3m masking foam before which goes between the doors or in the jams between the door and quarters, around under the boot or bonnet. It leaves a soft edge which can be polished after,
The only problem can be the wet on wet can creep further then the base. If the booth is big enough you could paint the with doors off so the door jams are painted at the same time. But then you do have the problem of the doors begging hong at a different height to the car , with different air flow and pressures can give blotchy, or to wet even grainy paint,
In my eyes I think it looks better with the doors on and paint the sides out all in one and have maybe a little edge I n the jams.
What colour is your wet on wet plus can you tint it or apply a tinted under coat . Plus can you add fast or slow thinners to you base with it being solvent, what’s. your mix ratio
Hey mate thanks, the I can’t go any bigger then the fiat van if so the fillet work is painted in the work shop and left over night, I’m using rm diamont solvent base, and same with the clear, i got a devilbiss pro lite. no I don’t thin it down or change it, that’s how it comes out the gun. I do a gripper coat or you may say a medium coat, left to flash off and then a full wet coat, if I have to flat and go for a glass finish I may put another medium coat to help give me something to work with on he polisher, it’s not a nice booth I put pics up at Xmas for you guys to see and I send two weeks fixing and rebuilding it ha ha.
What paint you using mate and what set up do you have.Hey mate how’s it going,
When you say bout a colour change, is it a solid colour or metallic, pearl etc.
Do you have to do any repairs, damage, new parts or even second hand parts. Also are you stripping all the car down. Doors off and bumpers etc even bout cutting the glass out.I’m not saying my way is the best way or the only way. But once the car is stripped down and panel work is complete. And all the repaired areas have been filler primed or spot primed depending on how you say it. With the rest of the areas either scotch or wet flat ready to apply wet on wet sealer, I would recommend using a sealer on all the car, jams, under the bonnet, every part that is going to be reprinted.
Depending on the colour I w old normally do the under sides first and the jams, insides of the doors and engine bay etc. then mask and rebuild the car with the bonnet on and doors, boot so you can paint the whole outside in one hit, if you c an fit the bumpers in alas well even better.
If you can tint the wet on wet sealer then great that will help with the coverage and use less base. If not stay with the same coloured primer and sealer for the w hole job. Not grey one part and white on another as that does help you keeping track othe the number of base coats.
Are you using waterborne or solvent plus which paint line you using also which clear coats
I hope I’m kinda helping you
Rikka
