richard elliott
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That’s a fine Krinkle on an anti roll bar I did last month
Hey jayson, yeh I understand what you mean and get that. But for the Krinkle it’s almost like putting fine sand in the paint its weird but looks awesome
[quote=”billgaino” post=28114]Rikka, I have customers wanting the flat black look. I think it looks like unfinished..I have used SEM brand Hot Rod Black. You would think it covers like a primer, but believe me when I tell you it has to be prepped as if your using base clear. Execpt for the sealer… lol When you say textured … do you mean krinkle, or bumpy, what do you use?[/quote]
Hey yeh you could call it Krinkle it’s more hard wear real good for engine blocks or motor bike frames etc, it an additive which I mix with the clear coat or a solid colour. Ie for if you have a damaged door moulding or a bumper with a lower vallace the you can repair and paint it look original. I will put pictures up so people can see. I’m not kean on the flat look as when it comes to de nib and polish I have to keep ordereing special polish to put the flat look back on
Hey matey, have you through of a theme : ie like Chanel, dg, Prada. Versace lets say you use Prada the you cans have Prada interior and use the brand to give it the extra touch. Things like having the Prada logo laze red in to the wheels then paint the wheel say black the spray the logo in with chrome metal flake to give it a diamond effect in the wheels 😉 is go down a theme path to help 😉 just an idea mate
Hey mate, it depends on what grade of metal flake you want to use, ; ie using an ultra fine metal flake is like a coarse metallic and will go through a normal set up on a 1.3/1.4, also it would be best to get a house of color flake or a brand name as if you get a lets say a eBay flake you will fined when mixed in with the clear the fake flake are died and the color comes off. I’ve used flake before and I’ve found that you need a great back colour : ie for gold flake use a black base it will bring out the gold more 🙂 depending on the style of car and colour will depend on how much flake In . Well in my eyes you wouldn’t have a classic car with flake all over it. Maybe only on the roof as if was a trend or modification they did 🙂
Hey, guernsey between England and France. Thing is I can’t start up over here unless I have round 600,000 in ponds that is. As the cost of living is so high, I brough a one bed flat last yr for 220,000 and have a mortgage round the 1500 a month plus bill on top. The wages are high as I a gd painter will get 550 a week plus if you do over time or spare say 1000 a week. I painted a roof and a second hand tailgate in side and out for 400 ;), hence why I do all parts of the trade as I’ve got bills, and a holiday to the Maldives to pay for 🙂
[quote=”billgaino” post=28070]I checked your Sata RP… too small tip for me, but a sweet clean gun. I have on hand, a clear binder from Dupont Chromabase called 150 or 155.. I have used it that way too, I will use a slower than usual reducer in my base if i’m blending adjacent panel. Last week I got the insurance to extend the blend to the front door, and I painted the fender free so I did not even have to blend on the silver, and paint the whole side.[/quote]
Thanks that Sata has now been sold. As I’ve just got a pro lite with s te10 set up which is better for what I need. Ha ha I take more time then any one to clean, strip, service my guns 🙂 there in a warm and safe locked box. 🙂 if you look after your guns your guns will look after you ha ha amen lol
Hey mate cheers, I’m just having a little moan. I feel over worked : ie I help in the panel shop, strip. Filler and panel then do my side and wen jobs stack up in doin two three jobs at a time as they won’t help me as they say I’m not paint side. Thing is if I don’t help the panel side and they take longer I have less an less to do paint
Yeh I’m on diamont, the silver can be a pain. I don’t know if they teach you or a rep shows you but I’ve got a tiny which I call a base fix which is 100g of bc020 thinners and bc100 which is a binder. I lay a coat over the panel which I’m fading my colour be fore base and it help the new base blend into the old. I don’t know if any other rm painters use it
I’ve never heard of matrix, I’ve only used rm, the guy which started to show me how to paint left 2months after I started, so I didn’t get trained up as you should. Know I’ve been doing it for 10 yrs and still learning. The guy showed me how to prime. He sed copy me so I did as he was right handed 🙂 after three yrs someone said aren’t you left handed lol which I am so after 10 yrs I paint with both ha ha
That’s how I learnt to teach my self to mix under coats and tints, by using left over paint. It helps me out. I can’t afford to just mix and dump the waste 🙂
I don’t know if any one does the same as me but. I’d use a ultra sealer or wet on wet then put my base over that. I’ve got in the habit of keeping left over mixed base, as it being silver and it will be inside and out on the bonnet I tend to use a left over silver first for the underside of it bonnet then put my mixed la7w base on top. I only do colours that take a lot to cover or having to paint under or inside new panels
Ok, I’ve got a fleet of round 40 fiat vans to repair for a postal company. So 1044c UNO HD has been chosen colour. It’s like silicones but I don’t think it’s that as I’ve changed tins of degreaser and clothes. And put the mixer on first thing. Even putting the tints tins in the booth to warm ready. It comes up in the first coat and through out. I changed the tints to new and cleaned the mixing paddle as well, I tried a different shade and it didn’t happen big had to replie 1044c over due to the shade being to cream, soon as I remixed layer down 1044c it started again. That’s when I started looking in to the dates on the tins lol help 🙂
why im asking as im having problems with my rm solvent paint, as im trying to find out y, i have a couple of ideas and i think the main reason is im getting pushed into waterbourne. and im thinkin thats y inm getting sent old stock
hey yeh i found its to with waterbase,which is such a shame, if you go on the rm website and go under the products ull see it, it will make more sense to you as you use waterbase, its like readibg french for my . as im still in the stone age with solvent,. theres some new clears, ie diamont clear, not diamont top, and also new body filler, the new paints is to do custom work with pearls, candys and powder effects which looks awesome, when doing base coats you and add an agent to help dry so you can tape on it and not leave tape marks which is great.im trying to get my boss to but the crystal top clear which is hd, and to be used of the top end cars but he doesnt like the price to much ha ha
