richard elliott
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Ok mate what’s your other thread,
Erm ok with the clear is it a medium solid or a high solid, and how many coats did you put on.
A bad trades man blames his tools ha ha ,Try on the first coat to do a medium wet coat, after that use you gun lightly with the trigger on just air blow the over spray away from the painted area. Don’t aim at the panel just around then next coat a wet one. Try to spray 6-8 inches away around 28psi. Doing a 50% over lap
With the t2 set up wide out your fan wide open the do one full turn back in. With the fluid needle wide it fully open and then pull the trigger in and hold with the other hand wide it in till you can feel the trigger starting to move in , then with mine I tend to do one full turn as well,
Get some masking paper and just try on that to see how it sprays out and see if its top heavy, etc you should have a round 4.5 /5 inch fan and the same wetness from top to bottomHey mate
. Good attempt for your first go, we all have to start some where. If I think back on my first go I got more paint on me then the panel :whistle:
Look on the bright side it will be easier to flat and polish back orange peel then to rub out runs the length of the door :rofl
Bit more Pratice and some more tips , and ill nail it :), just keep posting and keep us up to date on how your getting on and well help you along the wayHey mate no worries, yeh there awesome, I only charged 400 for all the work, I haven’t got a bike but I think if I did it probably be a triumph 675 sorry bout the spelling I just think the work I could do to one of them and the size of it would be great for me being short, I did have a bandit 600 but it wasn’t great, I get jealous of they bikes I have to paint as I’d love one ha ha
Hey I’ve only seen this a couple of times and I have been told that its due to trapped air under the tape, caused by not pushing the tape down hard enough before painting. How many coats of clear did you put on. I have flat a d polished one out before with 2000. 🙂
I’ve just been thinking have you tried draining the compressor and the water traps as well 🙂
Hey matey, I use the iwata for hs, and gti pro for ms, for the ms I tend to have my settings as, if you open you can wide open then wide it in one full turn, try to spray between 6 to 8 inches away, also I do a 50% overlap and and set the gun round 26 psi, also how many coats you laying down and are you doing one medium first coat or two wets ect, with the iwata I found out that a 1.2 was best for the hs clears same set up but spray at 28 psi, please try and spray on a masking paper or old panel first if your coming to change the set up lol don’t go straight on the the repaired panel for the reason of just in case and oh sh#t that’s not right ha ha
I always find it good to do a test graphic, there’s so many things that can go wrong, some graphics the glue reacts, the colours can bleach, even some cheaper ones you can’t even degrease over with solvent that is, also I have seen the trouble you can get if you don’t lightly scotch the graphic, to test the scotch if you lightly scotch it then degrease it you shouldn’t see the light scotch marks, if you can then its not a good idea I’m not saying it happens all the time but if you don’t scotch the graphic the clear coat does got milky and separates and flakes off in time. If you can buy an extra sticker or two and do little tests on them to see what you can an cant do 🙂
Hey mate, I’d start from scratch, once the job is in the booth ready to go, change your gloves, and degreaser clothes I tend to degrease with both waterbase and solvent degreaser, put on new spray overalls and a new tak rage the panels that are being painted then around the area ie the masking paper or sheets then tak the air line, if you can pre mix you paint and let it settle before you spray 😉 do you wash your hands after eating your lunch and xhange your glove often, little bit of grease from crisps on your lunch can course an after noon :whistle:
:agree with jack, that’s the sand way I do it, but I’d get a graphic made spare and stick it on a piece of card or spare metal and clear cost that first, before your bike parts. As some graphics do crinkle on edges or if there colors the dy on them can run.
A test price will save you so much work if it goes wrong, I find it better to do more light coats of clear then 2 wet coats as it has been none for the graphics to in stick and float ( if there a cheaper graphic ) 🙂
Hey mate welcome to the site. Your shop looks great, nice and clean I better not come in the shop with my work boots and overalls :p ha ha
I’ve busted looked up on rm for a greener tint and we have the same problem in the solvent saying a special tint is needed which is the scb tint
In the rm mix I can only see that the cb54L an bc1265 which are pearls may make it harder to match but they are old pearls in an 2013 colour
The top one is rm diamont solvent and the bottom one is rm waterbourne
Hey mate here it is in rm diamont
Then in rm waterbourne
[attachment=1915]image_2013-03-12-2.jpg[/
