Rob van Abeelen
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We used autoair in the past and it does what it says on the tin , very sprayable , some colors you need to be carefull of not putting it on too wet , adhesion is very good.
We only used it for airbrush work and custom work so never had to deal with colormatch and that sort of stuf , if you want to some more about it then have a look here : http://www.smdesigns.co.uk/ , Simon is the distributor for europe and is very knowledgeable about the products and also very helpfull.Now that´s a nice set-up they have there , i also like the lifter in the booth , would be sooo nice for my back.
Hi and :welc
Very good job and a beautiful car!
I think your clear will turn out to yellow a lot and the base will become darker ( don´t know if that is the correct way to say it ) , so even if you do a color match on the car it will look a lot different later on.
We powdercoat these kind of things wich is much more durable and temperature resistand.[quote=”Jayson M” post=32545][quote=”Rob1962″ post=32544]I use a Sata rp for base and i am quite happy with it but i will be trying a Supernova HVLP in a couple of weeks and that gun seems to be the shit on difficult metalics , i`ve been told that even i can´t go wrong with that one :exci[/quote]
I like the rp for solvent base too :cheers[/quote]
Yes , it works perfect on solvents based too , at the moment i only have rp´s for paint , but we are trying to set up this green shop and use waterbase as much as possible so on average you won´t find any solvent based basecoat here , i do have a tin solvent based black for tinting lights tho for wich i normaly use a iwata w100 😉
I use a Sata rp for base and i am quite happy with it but i will be trying a Supernova HVLP in a couple of weeks and that gun seems to be the shit on difficult metalics , i`ve been told that even i can´t go wrong with that one :exci
hmmm , going to try this too altho i have nothing to complain the way i do it now , there is always room for improvement 😉
Nice one for you , always good to hear that things work out in the end.
Nice job , looks HOT!!
Looking at the pic. i would say that the peeling is all over the panel so i would sand it down to the primer coat or to the metal , than put a sealer on it followed by a couple of coats of high build primer , then paint.
It looks like this is not a metalic so that would be easy.
Start to sand with 80grid on a DA to take the clear and base coat off , than remove the 80 scratches with 150 or 180 , seal and primer , sand primer flat with 320grid and finnish off with 500grid on a DA and you are ready for paint.
If you want to see a bit more more about the process you could have a look on:
Refinish networks youtube channel http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCywKecHrSNa5bnSLc8IBrvg
or
Butler Collision http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzA2PE7vg9R_ebLiBSjCxEw
or
PPG http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58bik4JqPg4i personaly don´t know a clear called sprint but it sounds like a fast clear , maybe it is more suited for smaller jobs like a couple of panels and you need to use a slower reducer for complete jobs , as there seems to be your problem.
It is also better to keep it to the products specs , if it says 2:1 then better use it like that , if a color does not cover in 2 coats than put it on in 3 coats , just watch your flash times that´s all , much better than playing with the chemistry side of paint wich is developed like that for a reason 😉
With a Sata rp it´s about 8inches distance , with hvlp about 6 inches and a 1.3 tip should be spot on for Max Meyer i believe , but i know it is good for most brands so that is not your problem.
You might need to play a bit with your speed.First of all :welc , can you put some piccies up so we can see what you are up against.
As a first advice , if you have clearcoat peeling , sand the whole panel down to at least the base coat layer , not just feather edge it were it is peeling because that clearcoat is not coming off for no reason.
Sanding the panel down to the primer coat is in my opinion better as you take away possible problems in the base coat too.
Then seal it and paint it………..Good luck
Looks good , me likes that ! 😉
well , when i just started with waterbased i had to denib a bonnet and without thinking i used some water , not the smartest thing to do i can tell you.
It´s waterbased and you can tin it with water so no , denibbing waterbased needs to be done dry as far as i know.The filling in is much easier with waterbased then with solvend in my opinion and you always need to take care of not putting in deep scratches , therefor i always start of with the finest grid possible and make sure i keep it clean.
I believe that Jimmo has some nice explanitory vids about this on his channel ( one picture says more than a 1000 words so a vid should say it all 😉 )
This is his youtube channel ; http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCywKecHrSNa5bnSLc8IBrvg