Rodney
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Sweet! Thanx ryan…..You think using it with the abralon would work better. I have never tried this method and would like to order the right materials to do it.
What kind of waterborne degreaser are you using, I’d like to try it out.
:welc
I cant recall having any issues spraying metallics with my iwata. Its works awesome for base and clear. But then again not every painter sprays the same. I use diamont and if applied The way its supposed to be its hard to mottle or stripe. I had a hard time with dbc though, it loves to mottle. After I got used to it, it was great.:clappy
I use to use ppg dbc and it has a habbit of modeling. I use a iwata lph400 1.4, and it did great. I started reducing the base 2:1 rather than 1:1. I sprayed at 20psi using about a 75% overlap This seemed to help tremendously. Not only for coverage but for the modeling issue as well.
When mixing the color add the reducer like it says, its such a little amount that it doesnt play such a factor in the reduction. Reduce your color 2:1. If your spraying at 80degrees I would definantly use ur60. I use an iwata lph400 1.4. A 1.3 might be over attomizing and not allowing enough meterial. A 1.4 is perfect for base, infact thats all I use for base and clear. I spray at between 20-25psi for base. If your using a smaller tip I would run about 20psi or move up to a larger tip. My fan pattern is 3/4 of a turn from wide open, and wide open on material. Dont put your base on dry or you will get some modeling. The base is designed to go on wet, dont be afraid to put it on that way.
The base is supposed to be 2:1. I use ur50 or ur60, If you mix your base 2:1, and aply it wet your modeling problem should go away. Puting it on to light will cause it to model, and if mixed 1:1 or over reduced will cause modeling. Using to fast of a reducer can case modeling too. Your metallics need time to lay down. I spray at 70-75 degrees in the booth, and use ur50 reducer most of the time, and use a 75% over lap on my base. Allow proper flash times as well. Its an awesome product once your use to using it. Probably one of the more user friendly paint lines i’ve used.
Dont flick your wrist on the blend panel. Lay a wetbed its way easier to blend the color. Just stop your color not flicking you wrist, when it comes time to make your blend lay a wetbed (glasoruit 55-B500 is the best as it stays wet longer allowing your metallics time to lay down). Start working your blend in till it goes away, youll see some modeling on the edge alittle so cut your color down 1:1 with bc100, dropping you air down a bit work the area. Before ya know it it’s gone. This is the method I use and have had great success in blending metallics. I also use diamont and I love everything about it. I use an iwata lph400 for my base and clears.
Have to agree, If your a devillbiss guy the tekna is an awesome gun, I also use one. Great for clear and base. My favorite guns I use are my iwata and sata, both are pricey but its well worth it.
Ya believe me I know the feeling of making someone else alot of money, it really sucks. I finally bit the bullet and went elsewhere, not that I wanted to but I really had no choice, and my painter was pissed. But such is life, now I do all my own prep and paint. Id talk with your boss and if it goes nowhere then decide from there.
wa6246 was the code I came up with too stone, the color was way off, tinted the hell out of it. It came out great when it was done. color looks really good. :clappy
how many years in the trade do you have? if youve only got the two years experience I could see the point, but I would also be pretty upset if they had already offered me the position and hired someone else. I worked at a shop when I first was starting out, and after about 3 years they told me I was gonna be the second painter in a high production shop, well those were empty promises. I stayed there for a couple more years and no change so I moved on. I prepped for 5 years before becoming a head painter, after about three years I felt I was ready to advance. It played with my head a little, guess other people thought otherwise. That all being said, youve got every right to be pissed, but usually all works out in the end……hopefully. good luck.
it is that dark grey metallic, with a semigloss finish. I know U is upper and L is lower on the code. I may have located the code in the domestic color chip book for GM in the trim color for that year, wont know till tomorrow, my fingers are crossed, hopefully I dont have to bench mix something. worse comes to worse I’ll use the color max chips, find something close, and tint it around.
I ran into the same problem awhile back. I switched to a faster cut-in clear and seems to have cured the problem since.
No block and fill time. They had 0.5 for repair on every panel which was ridiculous! after the adjuster came out we got 2.0 per panel repair time, which is perfect, that includes feather, prime and block. I was just curious on the -0.4 deducted for overlap. but you guys answered that and it makes sense to me now. :cheers