Rodney
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Im not looking for a cheap clear, like I said just looking for a clear(preferably in RM) that will work for me. obviously the 5600 is to fast for more than three panels. (unless your double coating). I know there are cheaper clears that are great products and we do use some of them on our lower end jobs. We dont have baking capabilities as of now but will in a year or so. So I think im gonna use dc92 That I know air dries well. Ditching the dbc500 and gonna use glasurit color blender.
Jim, I dont think 10min before clear, personally, I dont think its obsurd at all, I have never had a problem with die back with that time frame at all. (except on whites which I give about 15-20min. but we usually use uno on whites blacks and reds capped with a coat of clear for added protection).
Again, cost is not an issue. This isnt the first time ive used RM, But it is the first time in about 5yrs that ive used it. We recently switched from dbc to Diamont, and this was only my 3rd car with the product. Im sure I’ll figure it out shortly, not that dificult. Was just cerious if anyone had this issue, and what they reccomended for a remedy.I dont use sealer, I finish everything in 600 wet, its a heated booth(no baking), No accelerator. About 5 min. between coats, and 10min. before clear. Like I said, it didnt dieback on the repair panel, only where I blended my color. Doesnt make sense to me. No solvents where I blended, a ton where I covered. Usually its on your coverage area. Which makes me think its possibly the base sitting on top rather than melting in. I did use a different product for introduction coat. But even then you would think the clear would bury it.
Think Im gonna use the dc92. I think the dc5300 is gonna be to slow. The dc5600 is alittle to fast for me. As for cost on clear, not an issue in our shop. We put out quality work, and I think a quality product must be used to achive that, also our name is on the job, as well as a warranty for the job. Im not a lazy painter who has the mindset that a buffer will fix the problem, not my style. (no pun intended). Although I may have found my problem. I used dbc500 color blender before my basecoat rather then the bc100. (dont ask why). Then used diamont base and clear. Could my problem lie there. I use a reverse blend with a drop coat, My base melted in with the base, but could it have just sat on top of my color blender rather than melting in there too. Just a thought. Alittle side note; We just switched from dbc to diamont.
I love the Tekna! I use the iwata lph 400, and I like the Tekna better. I use Diamont rm and it works great for base and clear. As for water i couldnt tell ya. Im actually gonna buy 2 more. :dnc
Im gonna agree with Ben. That looks like fisheye to me. I dont see any solvent pop.
Ive used Global in the past for about 3 yrs. Loved the 894 clear, cant stand the base. Color matches suck bad! I currently am using dbc,color matches are pretty darn good and havent had any problems other than the modeling issues. And both do offer a lifetime warranty. Im not a ppg fan, but I think dbc is the better system.
iwata lph440, with a 1.7 tip. I use u-pol primer which is very high solids,high build primer and this gun works great.
We had this problem before in a shop I worked at. Our remedy was an air dryer, along with our filters, and an automatis bleeder on the compressor. worked wonders on our moisture problem. And that much moisture all the way to your filter is not normal in my experiences.