ryan brown
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Stick with the RPS cups. They do not restrict flow and you get a clean cup for every use.
You can use the 125 micron strainers for sealer, base and clear. You only need the 190 for primer. I always use 190 micron for all BTLV also.
Nice work
I can help with any questions. The new system is pretty nice. Some differences will be better coverage, the accelerator selection is easier, the coverage is also better. Most floors in the 350 and 280 system are 1 coat cross coat coverage. It also hangs a lot better, it’s pretty hard to run.
I like spraying it with a 1.4 RP. It will seem a tiny bit harder to wet up but just put it on there. It holds one hell of a gloss.
http://www.newpig.com/pig/US/pig-grippy-traffic-mat-rug-mat3223?cm_cat=UShomebrowse_absorbents
This is what I use. I don’t think there is anything else I would use. Sticks very good, very durable, easy to replace and holds dirt down well.
Use a chop stick to re reround out the center hole of the aircap on an iwata. Just put a chop stick through the center hole and twist back and forth. The scuff pad is used around the nozzle end to clean any debris off.
What is the name of the basecoat?
A 190 micron strainer is fine for solvent.
Superior 250 2 pack slow 480806
Superior 250 hardener 480808Just go with the 2 pack. Mix ratio is 2:1. You will love it
[quote=”Tylerbrooks12″ post=35345]Where I work we are a sher will shop and we always use sikkens clears, superior 250 and energy pro. They both have good body and actually dry and keep a really good shine, I think we actually use more of it then our sherwill clears[/quote]
Just curious if you prefer the sikkens clears why not just use the whole system?
Couple things,
33% is not close to a HS clear
2.0 miles may or may not be a problem. It depends on the chemistry of the clear but with the lower solids and the lack of UV protection an off brand clear will have 2.0 mils may not be adequate protection.
Most of the clears you listed in the beginning of the post I would be reluctant to say you are getting 1.5 to 2 mils per coat. The 4000 is pretty thin and most likely won’t be there.
When using an aftermarket clear a third coat is never a bad idea for proper UV protection.
Do you also wipe the car down with a waterborne degreaser such as Autoclean 1.28? Between the solvent degreaser and blow tacking you could have static built up.
Like everyone else said a new hose wont hurt and airline filters as jayson stated could be an issue if old.
looks good jeremy!
Have you ever tried heavy duty aluminum foil for the masking on your rotisserie?
We always used it to wrap up paint stands, wiring harnesses or engine components. A lot faster and easier than paper.
As stated it is new metallics, flop controller and binder. They are easier to spray than the current toners, but with that said the current toners are easiest thing I have ever sprayed.
It is not available in North America now, just Europe.
I guess I should have been more specific, what specific clear are you using BBB?
I would tend to agree with smooth that a 1.2 is too small for alot of clears but with some adjustment it should work fine. Problem is most guys just set the gun at whatever max psi is and go for it.
I really liked a 3000 RP with a 1.2 when I sprayed Spies clears but different clears not as much.
[quote=”smooth” post=33751]The 1.2 is the problem, what size tip does the material your using call for?[/quote]
Not necessarily. What product are you spraying with it?
If it is clear maybe try turning the psi down a bit or slowing the solvents down in the paint.
For sealer Smooth is right a 1.2 is too small.
For base it depends on water or solvent and conditions.
Looks good bondo. Good luck with it.