ryan brown

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Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 1,102 total)
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  • October 11, 2013 at 4:34 am #44887

    I personally know of a good number of shops who make over 40% profit on materials while using what is perceived as an expensive product. And their reimbursement is $28 a hour.I also know of shops who can’t make any money on paint while using “cheap” paint.

    You have to look past the price of a can and actually see what it costs to paint the car.

    I can promise you Transtar will not have the color match of the majors. With the amount of time, money and research the majors put into color development it would be damn near impossible. Make sure to try before you buy to be sure. Pick a few late model harder colors for each and try them out.

    September 16, 2013 at 2:11 am #44496

    It goes into any primer, sealer and clear that is on plastic part. Also hardener is required in the basecoat if using a solventborne basecoat.

    September 15, 2013 at 8:32 pm #44492

    Nice looking work!

    Kind of a different looking little car.

    September 14, 2013 at 7:08 pm #44487

    A proper flex agent does help. If you have ever sanded spiderweb cracks out of the paint on a bumper than you have seen what no flex does. With a properly flexed system the paint will not spiderweb crack. It also helps with rock chips as the paint will always stay in a rubber like state. Some of the thermoset polyurethanes have to have flex as they just move too much.

    With that said the paint will not fall off the bumper, and most high end clears will be flexible enough for you to get it back on the car with no issues. If you bump something in a parking lot it may not hold up as well.

    September 13, 2013 at 4:09 pm #44471

    There really isnt a general setting. Start at recommended psi, full fluid and turn the fan in until the pattern looks good and some of the fuzzy edge leaves the outside of the pattern. Every environment is different so there is no general setting for anything.

    I have never shot nason base, but with chromabase I liked a 1.4. Stay with slower solvents and it is pretty easy to spray.

    September 12, 2013 at 3:16 pm #44460

    Whats the problem? What color, what brand of base, what nozzle do you have?

    September 6, 2013 at 6:15 am #44403

    Ideally you want to mix two products next to each other in speed. There could be significant difference between an ultra fast and a slow.

    In a pinch it will work but you may have to give somewhere.

    September 4, 2013 at 3:00 am #44372

    What Jayson said.

    Slower solvent work much better for tough metallics. Also try rolling your wrist to blend and not flicking.

    make sure the color your blending has a good flip. if the flip goes too dark or light you will always see the blend.

    August 30, 2013 at 3:26 am #44330

    [quote=”reckless” post=32973]what kind of gun are you using?
    medium solids will atomize better but i dont know how much better
    high solids (and medium) really need higher pressures to atomize finely, unless your using a quality gun[/quote]

    Solids content doesnt have much to do with the air pressure needed as much as what the chemist who made the product does. Also you don’t need to atomize clears into a fine hairspray mist like alot of people think. All you end up doing is blowing out all of the solvent during travel and start piling on dry clear. This creates more texture and in turn people start piling on more. Bad scenario.

    Good gun control and a nice clear, regardless of solid content, make the most difference.

    I have lower solids clears that I spray at higher pressures than higher solids low voc clears, it is more chemistry dependent.

    August 30, 2013 at 3:20 am #44328

    [quote=”suprarztt” post=32962]On the topic of flow coating, do you guys flow coat with High solid clears?
    I spray sikkens autowave(waterbase line) and clear with superior 250, ive tried flow coating once with it, but it doesn’t seem to be worth the effort.[/quote]

    Most of the time Superior will lay down flat enough with deep enough gloss that a flow coat will not do much. It would not hurt on an all over nice car or resto though. If your off the gun skills are good enough it can keep a nice job from needing a buffer. On a custom job or real high end job a flat and buff is still a nice touch unless you hate buffing as much as me :blush:

    August 30, 2013 at 3:12 am #44326

    [quote=”Andy T” post=33005][quote=”Mal” post=33003]

    80k! Where do I sign up lol :dnc[/quote]

    I know, I’m surprised they aren’t queuing around the corner for that kind of money! That’s double what I earn! :blink:[/quote]

    Ya but your a lefty Andy so that knocks your pay down, and you can only do a hundred cars a week :p

    August 17, 2013 at 9:21 pm #44114

    [quote=”martinMK” post=32806]Getting a bit hot on the discussion.. I am not here to blame or to defend companies.. but do you think that a company can get an ISO and TUV certificate if they copy/paste guns from Sata..

    They had ongoing R&D for 8 years I believe..

    Maybe the design is alike Sata..

    Don’t judge book by its covers..[/quote]

    ISO9001 cert doesnt have much to do with the fact they are making bunk copies. It is something completely different. Until i see the cert I call bullshit on that also. it is a chinese company. They can say anything they want as there is no repercussion.

    Their 8 years of R&D is bullshit. It is a blatant forgery. Maybe it took them 8 years to be able to make a copy spray correctly. They did nothing to develop their own technology, that’s obvious.

    I am not saying they do not spray nice but I would not choose to give my money to a company whose business plan was to make generic sata and devilbiss guns.

    August 17, 2013 at 7:53 pm #44106

    This kind of thing really pisses me off to be honest. A company blatantly copying other companies products. If you want to be a reputable company just build something worth buying. Instead you copy something that a company has spend tons of money and time with R&D.

    I hope this company gets the piss sued out of them somehow.

    August 7, 2013 at 5:25 am #43939

    [quote=”jeremyb” post=32636]I’ve been trying their solvent system for a little while now. Just here and there to see what it is about..mainly on lexus colors. It seems like a good line. They have a color system, variants, camera, etc…

    The color variant system is much like BASF’s. I haven’t run into a problem where the color wasn’t blendable. Covers well and sprays nice. Their 8500 clear coat is a pretty nice clear. Sprayed a 69 GTO with it a while back. Just a driver type job but laid down nice and cut and buffed nice.

    Price is very reasonable.

    All I have at the moment :dnc[/quote]

    Traitor :cheers

    August 7, 2013 at 5:20 am #43938

    Im not sure what shipping and Importing taxes would cost you but they sell devilbiss gti prolites in Australia. Almost the same gun. Check that out and see if it can save you some coin. Also do yourself a favor and see if you can find a devilbiss gti pro with a T110 aircap to try. It is one of my favorite guns for clear. Depending on the specific clear you use it may be a great option.

    The tekna will not have any advantage over the GTI Prolite. Depending on exchage rates and such the Tekna could be cheaper, not sure.

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 1,102 total)