ryan brown
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What part of the world are you in?
I was only curious because if you were only planning on spraying a few cars I would go with what was cheaper since they are both really nice guns. Can you get a demo of either? They will both produce a first rate finish, it will come down to personal preference honestly. I use both and get great results with both.
What are you planning on spraying with the RP? How much do you paint and in what conditions?
Mostly the 1.4 for base, clear and sealer, but sometimes the 1.3 for clear.
[quote=”Xchaser” post=32533][quote=”ryan999″ post=32528]I like hvlp’s better for basecoat most times. There are some exceptions. The lower air cap pressure helps when blending as it will not throw paint as far down a blend panel, making it a bit easier to control. The lower pressure at the tip also helps with placing the metallics where needed without blowing them everywhere. With that said all guns have knobs and a compliant gun can be adjusted to compensate for this if needed, it just might take a bit more time to fine tune.[/quote]
Hey Ryan out of curiosity which hvlp gun do you use for base coat yourself?[/quote]
A Sata hvlp. Tip size depends on the model and what type of paint being sprayed.
The HV30 cap is nice. It does use more air but that is normal with a hvlp. I just prefer the 10 and 20 caps more.
The TE10 is not available on the older Tekna and I am a fan of that aircap. Also the fluid nozzles are designed differently. The Pro-Lite seems to shear the paint better, resulting in better atomization at the aircap. I also like that there is only one needle, it makes changing the nozzle a bit easier.
I actually prefer the older tekna for waterborne base and the Pro-Lite for solvent. The Pro-Lite is better for clear all around.
I love this gun. The TE10 aircap is great for certain clears, sealer, solvent and waterborne basecoat. The TE20 works good for clear and waterborne basecoat.
I have used mine a lot and have not had one issue with it at all.
I like hvlp’s better for basecoat most times. There are some exceptions. The lower air cap pressure helps when blending as it will not throw paint as far down a blend panel, making it a bit easier to control. The lower pressure at the tip also helps with placing the metallics where needed without blowing them everywhere. With that said all guns have knobs and a compliant gun can be adjusted to compensate for this if needed, it just might take a bit more time to fine tune.
I am with Jayson, I very rarely turn my fluid in at all. If it is too much I just move faster. With that said if you are turning the fluid in just a bit and like the results better keep doing it then.
My settings with a RP are the same as Jaysons. 4″ range around 80% overlap and move fast. I get a better finish by stacking nice thin wet coats on. If you get too far back and start going slow it usually gives the clear a thicker lumpy appearance or if too fast of a thinner is used it will look dry.
[quote=”Neat” post=32508]I’ve used the E-bay Deltron a lot with no complaints. I’ve done 3 complete cars with it; one was Ford Candy Apple Red – $800 a gallon through my normal supplier, $117 shipped to my door from E-bay.[/quote]
That’s not really Deltron. That is way below what any supplier would pay for it.
Good to hear Andy! I’m glad things have worked out. :cheers
Sata 100b RP primer gun here. Nicest primer gun I have used hands down. The hvlp would be second.
Scott made some good points. He forgot to mention that for a truley deep shine a sagola must be used.
All black is made from carbon black pigment but the grind can determine the shade of black it is. Certain brands have a deeper or jet black that will help. This will affect the depth but getting real good with a buffer will help also.
Do you have access to a mil gauge? I would be interested to know what kind of film weight/ mil build you are getting on side panels?
Do you notice any difference with slow or fast hardeners or reducers?
What gun and tip size do you spray with?
Have you tried a third coat on a side panel to see if it helped?
The color of undercoat will depend on what you want the color to do. It will be a poor hiding color so a very light undercoat would mean more coats for coverage and a lighter flip of the color. A closer undercoat will mean quicker hiding and possibly a deeper/darker blue.
Be careful with the red pearl on top. You may find you kind of dirty the face and make it a muddy brownish purple depending on the red pearl used. You could loose some chroma or de-saturate it some. While it would make sense that adding red to blue would give me purple, in is a bit more complex than that, especially when using pearls.
Make a test panel first with different ground coats. Also try with and without pearl to see what you like.