Zack
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The only hose I put in a booth anymore are the green flexzilla hoses. They’re super light and just a great hose, but whatever you do, make sure you don’t step on them or you’ll lose some air pressure. other than that they’re deff the best choice.
Use water cleaner for a pre clean then always finish with acetone for water born. I would not use laqure
Quickclean/Copper- 21-22 coverage, 17 control
Pro lite- 26-27 coverage, 21 control
this is a product and the guns that i happen to use everyday, these are the results I found the work best I’m using the compliant caps on each gun with 1.3tip
I’m a little confused. Did you actually get it stripped down to bare metal, and it still is trying to lift when you put products on it? Or is it only when it’s on top of the old substrate?
Once it’s dry don’t dare paint over it without doing a whole panel or using a wet bed. I couldn’t stand the product simply because of this, something as simple as a dirt nub in your base was a catastrophe to try to fix, esp on a high metallic. It was fast.. but at what cost? Bad color match and not user friendly at all. I got the shop im at to ditch standoblu for nexa aquabase, a much better system imo. The only other one on par with it is autowave from sikkens.
If you must blend a sail panel it’s good to rub with compound prior for a little scratch. I use 3000 so the blend area is not shiny then just buff the blend.
Not trying to sound like a dick but other then bumpers there are not really any hard to scuff areas. I believe bulldog makes an adhesion promoter that works on all substrates but it seems like a waste to me. I have painted about every make and model and never thought a sheet metal panel was un-deglossable. Do you have any examples?
If i get one or 2 in a job ill let the clear flash, then use a ez mix touch up dabber to touch them up with clear. after i bake it i sand the high area down like i would a run or nib and spot buff. as long as the clear is open when u touch it up before u bake u can never tell it was there.
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Is the above numvber for the whole pack? Slow Clear + Hardner? Stuff is expensive, my jobber said the pack is near 600$You would really only need to prime the areas you feathered out, not so much for adhesion as much as so you don’t end up with bullseyes/waves. Prime and block the feathered areas flat, as far as the rest of the job goes, base will stick to the sanded/scuffed areas just fine. Depending on the product, 400grit may be to aggressive for areas that are getting directly topcoated. I usually sand anywhere thats getting color with 600grit on a DA. and my blend/clear only areas with 800 on a DA. You can use a grey scuff on all of your edges/hard to get areas to degloss/scratch the surface.
[quote=”Andy T” post=34672]Ha ha, thanks Jason. It was a busy shift for sure!
Of course, working that quickly means most of my jobs lack the finesse that many of you guys put in, but I’ve resigned myself to the fact that that’s what this place needs. I’d say more than half of them need some kind of polishing work after painting to remove the dust, but then that situation isn’t helped by the push-through booth. It would be great to leave the cars undisturbed after painting like Paintwerks advises, but unfortunately I have to open a 20′ long roller shutter door and slide the cars sideways into the oven. Even the cleanest jobs can’t survive that kind of disturbance.
One thing I can say for sure though is that no matter what we do inside the booth as painters, prep work has a great deal to do with how clean the final job turns out. I carry out the same cleaning procedure on every car but some turn out much cleaner than others, depending on how they have been prepped. If the dust extraction equipment has been used to full effect, if the jobs have been kept clean and blown off well as they go along, it definitely shows in the end result.
Oh, and here are some snails in action :woohoo:
[img]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/2014-03-14104533Large_zps8486d829.jpg[/img]
You can’t see it in that picture but I’ve also used soft foam down the gap between the door and wing/fender. Not normally easy to do but the new 3M stuff makes it a breeze.[/quote]
Andy I gotta ask why do you do you transition tape on body lines on almost all of your jobs? I do this once and awhile on like a van quarterpanel, and I get you are in a high production facility, but what is the big advantage here? I can’t see the point when the body line is 2 inches from the belt molding. The time/material difference is almost nothing on the job I quoted above and you would just get better results by ATLEAST using lift tape and painting to the molding, if not removing it and doing the whole panel. I’m not trying to pick on you, I just legit don’t understand it.
We actually have both systems at work. Autowave MM and Aquabase. However, we only ever use the Sikkens system for base. Everything gets PPG sealer and clear. We just use it as back up for color matching if we can’t find something we like in PPG.
The shop I’m working in was spraying standox water and loved it, I came from a aquabase shop and as soon as the standox contract was up had them demo ppg and they switched. the speed of the base is the only up side to that stupid all wet 1.5 coat application. and when you factor in flash time, and having to use a wetbed for every color, it ends up balancing out. Not to mention its not user friendly at all. Have fun getting a nib out of a silver job and not having it look like garbage. If you are gonna spray water might as well spray a true water. sikkens, prospray, and ppg are the only lines im aware of with a true water basecoat. not to mention the aquabase sealer is awesome. super smooth edges, dont really have to burn it in or sand before topcoating, and it stays open 72 hours.
I use DC4000 with 3098 hardener for everything, even just a bumper. I have not had any real chipping issues. I’m not spraying DBC though, Im using Aquabase sealers/basecoat. The aquabase sealers have great adhesion, so I’m surprised you are having such an issue with the dbc sealer. My first guess would be not enough film build, but I would think 2 coats of sealer should be plenty.
I always mixed 3:1:1 no matter which reducer/activator I used, the only time I would use a diff ratio was if flex additive was used, which is hardly ever did. If you do use flex 20% is fine, I think they want 35% but thats overkill according to our rep. 90% of the time I used the standard activator, I never used rapid. On real big jobs on hot days I would use extra slow. I always just used the general Autocryl Hardener, never bothered stocking the rapid. I have never sprayed HS+ LV, but Autoclear HS+ is a great clear once you get a feel for it, it lays out beautiful.