Zack
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I posted this BTW, not sure why I was not logged in.
Fast hardners are reducers can speed up a slow clear a little, but the dry time will still be slow. They more effect the wet edge of the paint, which is why slower is better for bigger jobs. As far as dry times go if you want fast, you need a faster clear. They arnt quiet as nice as the slower ones, but still can produce real nice results. We have one at work that is ready do polish in 45 mins air dry. It has good UV protection and gloss, I just wouldn’t use it for more then a single panel at a time. It’s a Nexa clear, so should be available in Europe
Here is the TDS for it. (6800 Clear). http://www.nedsautobodysupply.com/P190-6800__RM2853C-5__12_11.pdf
For the type of jobs you do this would probably work great.
What I do probably isnt the “ideal” way to deal with chips, especially when it comes to corrosion protection. I usually just fill the bigger ones with glaze, sand the glaze flat, then put a couple of coats of a 2K primer over the whole panel. You will end up with dimples from the smaller ones, but once you sand the primer the whole panel will be nice and flat. The only time I really deal with real chipped up panels is with used parts. I have found this to be the fastest way to handle it. I don’t wanna deal with feathering each one out then blocking the whole panel. They just don’t give enough extra time on the used parts to make the whole process worth while.
Those are all pretty slow clears for doing side projects at home. How big are most of these jobs, do you have a booth? If you don’t have a booth and most of your jobs are pretty small (1-3 panels) I would use something faster. What basecoat are you using? PPG has a really fast clear (DC2000) that is great for doing smaller projects without a booth. They also have DC3000 which is slower then 2000, but a nicer clear. It’s still pretty fast and works good with out a booth- with a slower hardener you can get by with doing up to 4-5 panels with it, although I prefer 4000 for anything over 3.
Here are the TDS for the two products:
DC2000 http://www.benspaintsupply.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/P-246-DC2000-Ultra-Velocity-Clear.pdf
DC3000 http://www.autopaintplus.net/app/PPG/TECH%20DATA%20SHEETS/DC3000.pdf
These are both reasonably priced for premium clears, they have good gloss retention and UV protection.
Also, if you don’t mind my asking, why on earth are you using 1k clears? Is it because of VOCs? You will get way better results and much better durability from a 2K clear. There are plenty out there that are fast enough to use with out a booth or force drying.
iv only ever used a wetbed with water, and there was always a specific toner to make it with in the system, So, in BASF you could use over reduced clear as a wetbed? How did that work when it comes to tacking between coats? Once the base wetbed flashes its dry enough to tack. Would the reduced clear wetbed ever dry enough that you could tack he tween coats?
I spray Aquabase, which is the exact same product. I would deff use the HVLP with a 1.3, not the RP for base. SATA actually makes a 4000WSB that is specifically for water, it’s a real odd size (like 1.2something). I prefer just a regular 4000HVLP with a 1.3 to the WSB with my painting style. That being said out of every base gun I have used with PPG water I actually like the Tekna Prolite the best. It’s a great base gun and priced way better then the SATAs, I use a 1.3 with the HVLP cap. RP with a 1.3 is the great clear gun though. Some people like the IWATAs because of the huge fan pattern, but the RP lays it out better IMO.
Try it at both pressures and see which one you prefer. However, if you are gonna go based off the recommendations, I would use the paint companys as long as it’s for that specific gun.
Really? The single stage is more durable? I wouldn’t have expected that, even if it was catalyzed. I wouldn’t think it would hold up to UV as good as something with clearcoat. I could deff see how it would look better/be easier to apply though.
I think a lot of it has to do with my age, and the fact that I’m single. I’m only 26 and they know I don’t have to support a family, so they feel like they can pay me less. It’s bullshit, I should be paid the same as anyone at my skill level, regardless of details like that. A lot of people I have worked for seem to take me less serious because of my age, especially when I was only in my early 20s. I have been doing this since I was 16, and have always just been reasonably talented. Being the shop “kid” gets old after awhile, especially when you can out perform some of the people who are working with you. It’s usually the jobbers and paint reps who are the most respectful, but they don’t have to sign my checks.
Is that a specific clear that Sikkens makes, or are you just using a matte agent in a regular clear? I have both a Sikkens Autowave mixing system, and a Nexa Autocolor system at my disposal. I have some Autoclear HS+, and the Sikkens matting agent. Is that what you used,, what product exactly? I planned on using PPG DC4000 clear .with PPG OneChoice matte additive, just because thats the clear I usually use. I always did like Sikkens clear through, so if you have had good results with that combination, I have no objections to using it. Any tips on how to spray it, just 2 wet coats? I know some of the matte clears want the last coat to be medium wet to help with the blotchyness.
If it were me, in your situation, I wouldn’t bother doing the jambs. As long as the truck is still going to be black, it’s so subtle that it’s not worth the ton of extra labor and materials. If you are planning on doing the bumpers with the truck you will prob need about a gallon and a half of sprayable (already reduced) base. As long as you are gonna reduce the base by yourself a gallon should be plenty. I would not buy pearl separate- talk to the PBE jobber and have them find a factory code that is close to what you are looking for. There will be an OEM code that will work for what you want, and using an OE color will make your life way easier, in case you need paint in the future. Just mixing in pearl by hand will be a disaster if you need to re-shoot down the line, if say, you get in an accident. It will make you or the tech that fixes the cars life hell trying to match the custom color. Just my personal opinion.
DC4000 is the main clear I use, I also use DC3000 on some of my smaller jobs. Both have great gloss retention and are great clears overall in my opinion. The main problem I notice with the faster ones (even 3000) is its hard to get it to flow and keep a wet edge on bigger stuff. If you are just doing bikes I think you will be pleased with the results you get with DC2000. Just remember with 2000 there is no flash between coats, and spray it how you want it to look, It’s not gonna keep flowing.
Here is a link to the TDS in case you don’t have it. http://www.benspaintsupply.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/P-246-DC2000-Ultra-Velocity-Clear.pdf
On a navigator id expect to use a full gallon on an overall, if not more. It really depends but if you are doing this at home you are prob going to want to do 3 coats since I imagine you will be doing some cutting and buffing. I would buy 2 gallons just to be safe. Running out of clear in the middle of clearing a job is tragic. You may not end up needing the second one, but you can always return it or keep it around for the future. As far as base goes- that really can vary a lot. I don’t exactly understand what you are trying to do. Are you wanting to change the color of the whole truck? Do you plan on doing all your jambs and undersides? Coverage is also an issue, with some colors you end up needing to way more coats then with others. Are you wanting to do a tri-stage, or just a pearl 2 stage?
I always do the 2 lines of transition tape method. Well, I don’t actually use transition tape- I use 3/4′ Green tape and roll the edge on my knee. They sell something called an EZ-Edger that will do this for you. http://www.ezedger.com/ It’s a lot cheaper then buying the transition tape and not hard to do. I run the 1st tapeline about 1/4′ in the jamb and the second line closer to the jamb edge, After you seal you just pull the first line of tape off which allows for the base to travel past the sealer line, The end result is no hard-lines and no sealer creep. It takes a little extra work but it’s really not that bad. It’s just a matter of running a second tape line closer to the edge than your main line in the jamb.
Also, painting apart can be done- we actually do this a lot at my shop. As long as you don’t remix, watch your air pressure, and have the panels hung right it will match. It also prevents you from having to do cut-ins separate. We have rotisserie stands that make it possible to do the front and back at the same time. Just make sure you have coverage and it will work on solids or even silvers and golds.
What area of PA? I’m currently in the lehigh valley.