Zack
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I have not sprayed Chromax Pro, but I did use Standoblue (Standox water) and was not impressed. I understand the systems are VERY similar. I like the concept of the wet on wet application, but didn’t find it practical. PPG and Sikkens both offer water options that you spray similar to solvent. They arnt quiet as fast but the color match/blend-ability makes up for it. One problem I ran into with the wet on wet systems like Standox and DuPont is something as simple as a dirt nib in your base becomes a huge deal. You can’t just hit it and spot some base in that area, Once that stuff flashes the blend lays out like dog shit. It makes it a huge process just to fix such a simple defect. It’s just not user friendly, I couldn’t even imagine trying to do an over all with one of the wet on wet water systems.
1.2 is smaller then I would use with the RP, I use a 1.3. Also, compared to using the Iwata you need to be a lot closer to the panel, it atomizes different. With the RP I tend to be about 5 inches away with a pretty quick travel speed. Honestly thought 2 gallons of clear does not seem to be THAT excessive for 5 coats on an overall. Even with block sanding and buffing 5 coats seems to be overkill. My RP lays clear like glass, 2 coats is all I ever do, maybe 3 if you plan to cut and polish just for the extra film build.
I would hardly consider body shops in the US recession proof, just since I have entered the industry I have seen a fall off in the volume of work, and the times insurance company’s are willing to pay. Insurance company’s make the industry tough, It’s the trade off we make with DRPS. They keep work coming in, but try to make cuts everywhere they can.
It seems like your paint department is over staffed for only having ten bodymen. How big are most of the hits you do? I would definitely eliminate the team preping- it’s not necessary. When I 1st entered the industry and was preping- 2 Painters, and I were pushing out about 210+ hrs a week in a 50 hour week on average. That was with a high standard of quality, any paint shop should be able to function at about 150% or better with no problems as long as the work is there.
A lot of the clears I have used it’s ok to Prep and Re-apply immediately after cool down (if baked). However, it tends to still be kinda soft and you may have issues with sand-scratches showing, esp if using a scuff pad. With most clears as long as it’s hard and won’t fingerprint you are probably ok to prep. If in doubt, you can always check the TDS for the product you are using.
Also, as far as product suggestions- it all depends. Solvent is prob more user friendly, DuPont, and PPG DBC are both pretty easy lines to use. As far as a base gun the Tekna Prolite is the best base gun I have used with waterborne- and it’s priced better then the SATAs. I have not used it with solvent but understrand it performs just as well.