Sean Booy
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When I was a painter I brought my own tools.. Spray guns, DA, Buffer and a small tool box plus anything else I may need….
I have managed shops that supply this stuff for the painter and honestly see the tools not being treated properly..
I would expect that a good painter would have their own stuff and not expect the shop to supply them with it..
I would expect less from a prepper… A DA, primer gun maybe a small tool box would be a plus…If they dont have it I would expect them to try and obtain a DA ASAP. I would even float em a loan if needed…[quote=”reidy” post=26298]some lovely work there.
iam curious to what yous guys use for doing your fine line work? i use wurth fine line tape but everytine i try to make a bend with it, it always starts lifting and leaves very ragged edges[/quote]I use 3m fine line blue and white.. IMO the blue bends (stretches) around corners better.. I always try to remove the tape ASAP to keep it from bridging.. I also do a quick light wipe with wax and grease remover to knock the edge down a little.. In my experience the only way around the ragged edges is to not hammer on the product and remove the fine line ASAP.. I try to remove when things are still a little wet..(yeah be careful)
Thanks.. I have some before & in process pics of those tins.. They were rough. the rear fender was all twisted with a nice rust hole under the hinge..yippy I’ll try to remember and post em
I wasn’t real excited about welding the emblem brackets on the tank and having to dent the tank so the screws could protrude through.. but there was no way around it..
When I first read the title I was a expecting ” I left my gun in kleanstrip for a couple days and it ate all the chrome off”…
Like others have mentioned.. nothing a good cleaning cant remedy.
But this thread has introduced a couple new cleaning methods I had not heard of before.Blend everything.
Exceptions: Customer pay work, repair allows blend with in, black, bumpers only. Note: I have been seeing a few blends on fenders when replacing a bumper and blend bumpers when replacing a fenderWe get paid to blend rear doors and cab corners when replacing a bedside. Rear doors and trunk lid when replacing quarters.
If the insurance company wont pay for blend and it is causing you to produce an unacceptable job for the customer, I suggest you get the customer involved and explain to them that their insurance company wont pay for a quality color match…
Only time we run into not being paid for blend is warranty work and even then we bite the bullet and blend anyways..
I have been price matching for many years but not with collision link..
As far as wordage on the estimate it depends on the insurance company and if they are a DRP or not.. I normally leave it listed as an aftermarket or LKQ item and add a note that the part was “replaced with OEM and price matched to aftermarket.” This can be used as a positive marketing tool when brought up by the customer.
[quote=”Andy T” post=25410][quote=”sbooy42″ post=25409][quote=”Wydir” post=25402]Is this from the same painter on the same model of car on the same panel?[/quote]
Sorry confused. Is what from the same painter?[/quote]
You said that some jobs were seeing 13-14 oz per panel, while some were lower.
Wydir was asking if all of the other variables were the same, apart from the paint usage. Inferring that a different painter, or a different panel on a different car may well use more or less paint than your average.
If I remember I’ll run some figures off tomorrow and let you know our average over the past month.[/quote]
sinuses are feeling better and meds are waring off… it makes sense now :lol1
Yes same painter.. But we do run an express lane where cut in and smaller vertical panel jobs are done.
Come to find out the express lane painter had been getting a little relaxed and not paying attention to what job materials were being billed to because no one was checking. I am now the guy that checks and pays attention and this weeks materials are looking much more in-line..Thanks guys
have a good weekend. :cheers . we are getting some snow so hopefully Monday will be busyReally surprised no one keeps track or knows. Yes I realize there are variables that’s why an average is figured..
Why do I ask? We keep track of materials for every job and materials are running a little high on a few. So I am playing with numbers and couldn’t remember the number form my painting days
Ask the estimator :rofl I was an estimator for 7 yrs and before that I painted full time for 13ish years..
Sorry for the weird question. But if anyone is interested I did come up with the number: Average of 8oz of clear per panel. Average of 8oz of solvent color. Average 6oz of waterbase color.
So I have some investigating to do as to why a few jobs are seeing 13-14oz per panel and others are lower..
Thanks
Can the shop bring in enough work to support 150%? in an 8hr day
Do the guys have paint work all day or are they standing around waiting?
IMO paying a painter hourly can result in a lack of urgency..Kind of sounds like he might be stretching a (ex.) 4 hr job into 6 to to make a pay check..I agree with Ben, make sure every thing is on the estimate.. tint, cover car, color sand buff…etc unfortunately that wont make up for 22-47 hours..
We have the team pay system in out paint shop.. I would not have liked it when I was painting but it seems to work but there can be some bickering when someone works late or comes in on saturday “your stealing my time”
And IMO the wet sanding everything from primer to blend will really cut into time.. I worked at a shop that required this and I could never get better than 110% most the time below 100..
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