Carl
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[quote=”richie00boy” post=35076]Not all primers can be thinned down to use as a sealer – check the data sheet.
I imagine you can get Mipa products easily in Holland as you are nearer Germany? They do a transparant sealer which is good.[/quote]
You say they do a transparent sealer mate does this help with colours that don’t cover easily at all ?Thank you Jason for help, well I had a quick lesson in blending a tri stage by learning the hard way trial and error lol,couldn’t get hold of our paint rep guy as he was training so went for it and it was ok which I was pleasantly surprised. I made an fatal error tho which when I think about it was a stupid and obvious error but we live and learn !
Well I blended the ground coat onto door next to rear wing I repaired, but only blended the top coat onto tailgate and the other quarter !!! Obvious to me now I should have blended ground coat too on tailgate and the rear wing on other side where bumper meets,the match is ok to tailgate and will get away with that no troubles but on the n/s rear wing it was like black and White lol !!! So I redid that rear wing again and I’m sure it’s well within acceptability.I’m actually quite confident now that I could cope well if another comes along ! It’s only when you do a colour like this that you learn from mistakes and that sticks in my mind for next time ! Many thanks again,carlThanks for your time Jason much appreciated ! I will check out my test card this morning mate to see how close it is and may take your advice on just doing bumper cover but am I right if I did blend where it meets the other panels I just flick the top coat (2nd stage ) in those areas ?
Thankyou bud.
Thanks bud.
3 bar pressure s way too much in my opinion mate should be around 1.8 to 2 bar max.
[quote=”Andy T” post=33476]Carl, let me know the product number as well please. Might come in handy.
We use loads of Kent stuff here. 99% of our priming is done with Ultrafill :blush: We use Plaz Tex, their badge and logo tapes, plus some of their plastic repair and epoxy bonding products. They have some good stuff![/quote]
Ok mate but my son is in hospital this week for a major operation so i wont be at the shop for a week or so,im sure if you give the guys a call they can sort you out bud,ask for the japan tape,its yellow and is about £12 for three rolls so is very good for the money,i use it for detailing too to mask edges on my own cars that is lol.when i first used it we had a car not long been washed so was wet and i stuck the same bit of tape 3 times over wet window rubbers ! Normal tape will not stick if its bloody damp ! Its great for fine lining too around lights and bumper mouldings etc…etc…
Carl.[quote=”Mal” post=33472][quote=”Scoobycarl” post=33470]We sometimes use japan tape,dont know why its called that but hey ho.its quite thin and sticks like shit to a blanket,it is used to mask up the rubber seal around petrol filler caps where normal tape wont stick.[/quote]
Where do u get that at Carl? I’ve yet to find a tape that sticks well enough on some of those rubber curves been using 3m green with some decent results[/quote]
Hi mate,it is specialy made for around petrol filler caps where the rubber has petrol or diesel spillage on it,also works a treat on tight window rubbers where most cars get a bit of overspray as the tape lifts.we get it from a rep who sells 1k primer rattle cans and texture coats,amongst other things, they are called KENT,google kent automotive catalogue mate the number is on the website.carl
Ps i agree with andy t aswell,its best to masking tape flat and carefully cut to shape with new blade.We sometimes use japan tape,dont know why its called that but hey ho.its quite thin and sticks like shit to a blanket,it is used to mask up the rubber seal around petrol filler caps where normal tape wont stick.
Yea mate our paint system is piss poor with these kind of colours,it does the standard run of the mill stuff ok i suppose but anything a little funky and it struggles !
Hi mate we use mipa solvent which isnt good with some colours,it wasnt on our system so we caled paint manufacturer and they gave us the formula,but it was too orange when the colour is more like candy red.
[quote=”Andy T” post=33163][quote=”martinMK” post=33156]
What about a tack rag and a super fine hi quality micro fiber on top just to be sure to get the lint free finish..[/quote]
I missed that bit.
If I’ve done a fair bit of dry sanding (and let’s face it, dust extraction never catches it all) I do wipe down with a microfibre to remove the majority of the dust. Dirt cheap and washable / reusable. I see many people just blowing this kind of sanding dust off with an airline but it isn’t exactly good for your health! :blink:[/quote]
Nothing in this game is any good for you mate,ya body takes a hammering in this game !
A couple of years ago i was rushing round working on 2 jobs + doing quotes and sorting customers out with the finished cars (gaffer was away ) and stupidly placed some super glue on the hood of a car,a new shiny black mercedes ! Got called away to do a quote and returned to find the wind had blown super glue all over tis nice shiny paint on the hood :headsmack: anyways i got all of it off using the putty trick and trust me it was hard work ! Used the putty 3 times to get it down to the lear coat but got it off and there was lots of glue to shift. Sanding with 400 and it was twice as tough as clearcoat ! its a life eh ?
I did 2 foreigners on sunday with the sri pro and loved it,the more i use it the more i like it. I think i will get 2 lol.one base and one clear :dnc
Cheers andy,i did a full wing and half a bumper today with the sri pro and it did it with ease,also used less clear and it layed it really flat.i may just get one of those then bud.
Any air gunsa mini guns out there ? Another painter next door has one he got free with a primer kit about ten years ago and it still gets him great results,just thought the air gunsa may be cheaper,i know there part of iwata now.