Scott Bowden
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[quote=”Charlie” post=36634][quote=”ScottB” post=36622]I just bought Dynabrade’s version on sale for $259. It’s quite versatile and removes spotwelds easier than a spotweld bit. Paid for itself on the first panel.[/quote]
Which one did you go with Scott?[/quote]
Dynabrade model 18100 {1/2″x18″) Amazon has it for $290.
I just bought Dynabrade’s version on sale for $259. It’s quite versatile and removes spotwelds easier than a spotweld bit. Paid for itself on the first panel.
[quote=”NFT5″ post=35851] the important point here is that there should be absolutely no difference in colour between the Omni and the Deltron,.[/quote]
This is not true. Omni is well known for poor color matching.I get all my bike paint, including Harley, from PPG. Occasionally I mix my own. No need for ColorRite.
PPG code is 917278, tri coat and not cheap. Many Goldwings are tri coat. Hopefully you did not beat yourself up too badly on the estimate.
I shot Crucible in 2011 with 55-Line. Match was good but that bike’s panels were 4 different values from the factory, which is not unusual on many of the Hondas. All the trike conversions I’ve done since then, which are primarily Goldwings, are shot in DBC. I’m pleased with the matches and the savings need no explanation. Jeremy on here shot a bike with Pro-Spray and had success. I have no knowledge of their % of satisfactory bike matches.
On-line paint companies you mention must be ColorRite and USA Paint. I tried Colorite once years ago and they failed. They refunded my money.
Those people at the car events commenting on Eastwood products were hobbiests. That’s who Eastwood targets. Collision and resto shops don’t buy supplies from them. Their paint is not high quality and their other supplies are overpriced and can be purchased cheaper elsewhere. This site in mainly comprised of professionals and shop owners who can provide quality advice about the industry.
Had those car event people used a higher quality product, their reviews would have been different. If you know where a product lies in the food chain, you expect it to perform as it does and use it on a job that requires it.What are people doing that they can’t get sealer to lay flat? Laying down is inherent in it’s design. As far as sealer showing in jambs, just double tape like Jayson says.
[quote=”Nexson” post=33382]You know this is actually a pretty good idea. It would make up in time what it would cost. It takes quite a while to get it perfect. Can’t seem to find the purple fine line. Can I trouble anyone for a link? Currently using the dark blue tape.[/quote]
Nex, All you have to do to make the pattern I mentioned in draw it on paper. They’ll refine it with the computer prior to cutting. Bring a light with you if you want. Most sign shops do this type of work all the time. The cost will be minimal.Make a pattern and bring it to a sign shop. Have them cut you a supply of Gerbermask. Stick the mask on and eliminate the need to fineline and mask the middle. You can only play with fineline so much before it fails to perform properly on radii. If you do flames or graphics this cannot be allowed to occur. I use purple.
[quote=”martinMK” post=33073]1-3 cars/bikes per month..
Do you suggest that I move the water trap further from the compressor?
My compressor is new and does not spew out oil.. but I get quite in my water trap.. Maybe like in the video adding a condenser coil and then the water trap will help?
It was just a suggestion.. I see a lot of people adding water traps on their lines and get excellent results with their air. So maybe all you need is 2-4 water traps that will dry the air and will cool until it reaches the gun?[/quote]Yes because as I said, the air must cool, Your air is hot off the compressor as it immediately enters your separator. That’s why you have so much water. I’m not high production and only double your demands. I have 50 feet of 3/4″ pipe with two drain legs in route before a Devilbiss QC3 and have no water problems. I never use filters on my gun. If your production increases you need the one Jayson and Ding suggested. Read this: http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/Page/Air+Piping+Layout[quote=”martinMK” post=33071]What about connecting 2-3 water separators on the line in different places.. will that help..
I have a water separator and filter directly on my compressor and have one on my gun.. never had any problems.. the weather is humid and hot so it is like in the UK..[/quote]
How often do you spray? I ask because a separator at the compressor does little good if any. The air needs to cool so the H2O can condense. A minimum 25 feet of pipe is required before the first filter. I don’t see how you can push an inadequate system to the limit in a production shop and maintain system efficiency.[quote=”NFT5″ post=32881] Funny, I looked at parts supply before I bought mine and they’re readily available here. Maybe just a support decision by Iwata US?
Mine gets daily use and cup is as good as new. What kind of issues are you having with it?[/quote]
I paid $107 for it brand new w/ free shipping. When it pukes I’m not spending coin on a rebuild kit and new plastic or metal cup when I can just go buy a replacement or better gun. I prefer metal cups opposed to plastic cups with screw-on lids. A threaded plastic lid is not as convenient to maintain. Can you clean it thoroughly after each use? Yes. Is it as easy and fast to clean as a better designed metal cup and lid? No. The gun paid for itself.[quote=”NFT5″ post=[quote=”ScottB” post=32872]
I bought an AZ3 three years ago for primer. It’s still working fine and I use it weekly. Plastic cup is not designed for longevity. It’s not worth buying a replacement metal cup when the plastic one is too tired to use. I’ve spoken with Iwata about this gun and they consider it disposable and not worth rebuilding. That’s why rebuild kits and parts are limited and their cost won’t justify a rebuild. You don’t need a special wrench for it.[/quote]Funny, I looked at parts supply before I bought mine and they’re readily available here. Maybe just a support decision by Iwata US?
Mine gets daily use and cup is as good as new. What kind of issues are you having with it?[/quote]
I paid $107 for it brand new w/ free shipping. When it pukes I’m not spending coin on a rebuild kit and new plastic or metal cup when I can just go buy a replacement or better gun. I prefer metal cups opposed to plastic cups with screw-on lids. A threaded plastic lid is not as easy to maintain. The gun paid for itself.
[quote=”martinMK” post=32867]So..
I finally made my choice.. I will get AZ3 HTE Mk II in 1.3mm
http://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/product.php?tid=79&products_id=6096From other forums I had read that there is a problem with spare parts and repair kits.. kinda not available always..
Since I am on a tight budget and the gun does not come with a wrench, the additional cost of $80 for a wrench is crazy.. is there another way / substitute wrench..
[/quote]
I bought an AZ3 three years ago for primer. It’s still working fine and I use it weekly. Plastic cup is not designed for longevity. It’s not worth buying a replacement metal cup when the plastic one is too tired to use. I’ve spoken with Iwata about this gun and they consider it disposable and not worth rebuilding. That’s why rebuild kits and parts are limited and their cost won’t justify a rebuild. You don’t need a special wrench for it.