Scott Bowden
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That’s the surface tension properties of the paint, or edge crawling in your instance. This phenomenon can also be winessed in a water level higher than a glass rim. Some clears, such as PPG 2021 do it more than others. Tape may reduce it slightly but not eliminate it. The edge is the source of the issue. A brief description of crawling is here: http://www.dispersions-pigments.basf.com/portal/basf/ien/dt.jsp?setCursor=1_564555 Don’t hammer on the clear with those producing it more.
I paint quite a few trike bodies in tricoat. The location and amount of damage determines the blend. If the damage is scattered, I just rebase the entire body. Other times the blend has to be taken so far there’s not much left of the previous job. Not sure what you mean by stopping, just do your blend and clear the whole body. Bodies come off for most repairs. As you know, some bodies provide no gun access unless you do so.
Pivot the top front of #16 forward, and slide it in the brush body against the trigger post. Purge the gun with thinner if you leave it idle for while. Sometimes you’ll find no air when depressing the trigger. Pull off #2 and you’ll have air when the trigger is depressed. Just clean #2 and you’re good to go. I don’t use #1, it obstructs my line of sight and view of the needle tip. Side cups provide a better view.
‘[quote=”strawberry” post=31379] In theory though wouldn’t clear with KK give more protection to the dye and then even more protection from the top clear? As long as it’s a good clear.[/quote]
In theory yes but why bother? What are you going to do when someone brings you a Lava Red Sunglo Harley and you have to match parts? PPG provides it in a tristage. You’re not going to tint clear for the midcoat are you? There are no pearls in that Lava midcoat formula, only 3 dyes in DBC 500(PPG does not call them dyes). KK’s are added to SG100 for custom work, same principle for both companies. You can buy all this through PPG’s Radiance and Vibrance system and create just like HOK. What’s done on bikes in tristage is the same thing done on the cars you paint in tristage.
What have you been using when doing artwork with translucents? You can’t be adding KK to clear are you? It gets added to SG 100.
Quite frankly, I’m not a fan of HOK basecoats and clears although I use basecoats for airbrushing and certain custom jobs. Guys in collision would be throwing fits about how slow it is.
[quote=”R1campr” post=31369]I’ve only used HOK KK, with DBC 500,if you use that, get tech sheets online for both. Use a gun with small nozzle, like .1 or .2, I use a .1 touch up gun for bikes. I also add a little hardner to the candy if I’m going more than 3 coats, the same hardner that I’m using in the final clear.[/quote]
Why aren’t you using DX57 in the DBC500 or any tricoats? Where did you read or hear to use clear activator in basecoats? If you are using a tricoat system, DX57 is specified on the TDS. Doesn’t matter if it’s 2,3 coats or more of DBC500. I don’t use a touch up gun for bikes when the whole bike’s background is candy, nor if it’s just BC/CC or any factory tricoat. Graphics yes, for a flowcoat on a small part maybe.[quote=”MetRamos” post=31357]That’s what one of my questions was going to be, if I used a better quality clear with UV protection, would it help against fading?[/quote]
I addressed that question and if you call Coast Airbrush they will provide the same answer as I. Same principle as any paint. Coast is a very large HOK supplier with a staff that has technical knowledge as well as painters who use the products. Do you know what PPGs Vibrance is? None of the bikes I’ve shot using it to match Harley colors have faded to a degree one would notice. Vibrance has custom mixing options just like HOK. In the case of Harley or any other bike there is just the paint code and it’s a done deal. It’s just a tricoat, nothing extraordinary. Clear it and ship it.I don’t have the answers to your questions Strawberry, and I don’t like to make technical presumptions on forums. Call Coast. On bikes I use KK in SG100 then use a good clear over it. Years ago that was suggested by HOK and Coast. Not sure on how they are comparing your data on KK vs UK. Comparing them how? Cleared KK vs cleared UK? How many coats? The green fairing in that thread I posted is done with KK in SG100. That fairing needed to match a bike shot 3 years earlier. All parts look the same today. That bike sees the road on almost a daily basis. Did it fade? Of course it did but I can’t tell. Everything fades to some degree.
[quote=”strawberry” post=31345] As far as fading I’m in Florida so fade is a big issue however I would always suggest HOK UFC35 clear the uv protection is very high. It was formulated specialy for candy and the fade problems of candy. With HOK KK and UK are very different. KK is concentrate ment for underhood, jambs, out of direct sunlight areas and it fades faster then UK. I’ve seen people us KK without even knowing and it’s not good. But even if you don’t use HOK candy I would still use HOK clear.[/quote]
Not true. KK can be used for exterior components and in direct sunlight. It’s even stated on the sheet it’s perfect for motorcycles. KK is the same tint that is in UK. UKs are just factory packs. In fact, KK can be added to UC25 to make a UK. The formuias are listed in the tech manual. HOK advises using a quality clear for maximum UV protection. Using their clear is suggested, which is typical of any company. But any quality clear with max UV protection is fine, reps have said so. HOK does not have the market cornered for quality clears. I’ve got bikes out there for years using KKs that are driven almost daily in summer, some see FL sun, and none are failing. Only one has UC35 on it.
There’s no need to use HOK clear when using a PPG Vibrance system. Many of my factory Harley colors are Vibrance. There is not a fade issue when using PPG or other good clears.
If you need to verify this call Coast Airbrush, they will be happy to explain KK usage and more. Coast sold off it’s line of Alsa candiess for nickles on the dollar due to it’s inferiority and failures.
HOK or PPG did not match? Lot of choices using apple red and different bases. I’ve got jobs out there for years using those products with no failures.
[quote=”gtome” post=31246] I do have the digital gauge and as you said, I had some battery trouble with it and it occasionally shows 4 psi on the stand. I just take that into account when I spray, but like you, I mostly go by sound.[/quote]
You should be using a gauge. On another site you stated you sprayed without one, and your best guess was it was 22PSI or so. The objective of this profession is to comprehend, improve and perfect product control. Hard to do that with inaccurate pressure monitoring.[quote=”johnmaloney88″ post=31217]didn’t get full coverage. [/quote]
Your answer is in that statement.[quote=”billgaino” post=31155]Why do I always have to defend myself.? I have done it with Diamont, but theRM will pull off with the tape. I guess the safe way is to clear over each color. It just takes longer, and in my world….time is money![/quote]
Because of statements like this and others. Diamont won’t pull off but R-M will? Have you read a label or looked at the BASF website lately? If you are pulling off paint when taping, there is something wrong with procedure.[quote=”billgaino” post=31061]Mick, start with a primeed. Tank. Cover the area you don’t want painted…..that would be the larger color. I always paint the smallest area color first. Paint it with base. After it dries, you remove the tape, there will be an edge,scotch pad that off and now tape the color you painted. The new color will match edge to edge. You just have to tape it tight. Another way is to clear over the first color. Scuff the whole tank, paint the second color and then reclear the whole thing. If you have a little edge you can resend and reclear again. Anybody else? I knw it is a lot of reclear….. But that’s what makes it slick. Bill[/quote]
Wrong. You never tape graphics edge to edge. You also don’t use a scotchbrite on basecoats. That’s not going to be very good for metallics unless you want that custom brushed finish. Multiple colors can be done in one day observing adequate flashtimes. If not, blow on clear base and proceed as your abilities allow. Custom painting has different approaches depending on the complexity of the artwork. Shoot 2-3 coats of clear over finished artwork, sand and clear again to level the surface.
That’s not coming out; more clear is not going to make that problem magically disappear. Solvent creep affects the adhesive and causes the edge to pucker. You also can’t put decals over a taped hard edge and expect it not to show; the surface must be flat. To prevent vinyl lift, avoid wet coats and allow maximum flash. Best way to avoid it is to use paint throughout, forget about vinyl stripes. Here’s a thread with the same issue. http://www.refinishnetwork.com/component/kunena/7-paint-and-refinish/27166-graphics
Years ago the owner’s son would detail cars while one of us was painting or not. He did not listen until all his supplies and more were tossed in the dumpster. After that he got the message and played in a sandbox elsewhere.