Scott Bowden
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
Flowcoats and it’s a small part. Not hard to get a smooth finish. Not all bikes are that nice. Some have heavy peel, some have fine peel, some are glass. Look at some HD’s with factory paint for instance. The graphics are buried and the clear is often dripping off the bottoms of the fenders. Last smashed HD I did was just black and very heavy peel.
Get Finesse striping stencils and tell your boss you’ll do it. You’ll make more per panel than you do at your regular hourly wage.
I stripe for shops. Often the previous striper did not prep well enough. There is often no mechanical adhesion for stripes, and sometimes they come off when taped or just by a fingernail. It’s not unusual for lacquer thinner to remove One Shot, Chromatic or Finesse enamel. You’ve mentioned the use of Mack and Kafka so this should be an easily resolved issue.
Beuglers were used at the factory and…
[i]The full length striping fixtures were suspended from overhead at the end of the Final Line, had locators in the wheel openings, with suction cups that secured them in place. After the stripes were applied along the fixture’s steel guide rails with Beugler rollers, the fixtures were released and returned to their overhead position on balancers.[/i]
I thought I had a photo of the lineworker doing this.
[quote=”gtome” post=30388]I dont think they usually spray anything on new parts here, they scuff and shoot. I think I am going to start spraying a sealer first.
I hit the boss up this weekend about picking me up a fresh air breathing system too. Not going to be an easy task to get these guys into more modern practices since they hired this old school guy.[/quote]
Sounds like this shop does not know, or ignores proper procedures. You’re not supposed to base directly over e-coat. How modern is breathing clean air? We had a fresh air system in ’86.
Have not tried UPOL. Used DX103 years ago. Now I just use glass cleaner for what I do. Even wiping the backsides of panels with water will neutralize the charge imbalance. Learned almost 30 years ago static will suck the paint off the end of a dagger brush. Gentle wipe with a damp cloth and good to go.
Welcome aboard.
Excellent
[quote=”Doright” post=29724]Don’t be surprised in the near future when some one looks into all this a bit more deeply and Chery Max are approved.
After all if the Jaguar body manual says that cheep ass Hemlock rivets can be used in place of SPR then surly a superior cherry max can be too.You guys need to forgive me I have a engineering back ground in structural stuff and have some federal certs to back myself up as well.
Not something every one here has the benefit of in a court of law.[/quote]If and when they are approved, shops can then use them. Until then, your background does not carry any weight in court.
Draft a letter with all your product stuctural data and engineering background and send it to BMW. See if they approve of your repair procedure for licensed repair facilities and the insurance industry. Ask them if they will stand behind you in court even before the procedure is legally approved. Then report back here with a copy of the letter of approval you received from BMW.Wouldn’t your time be better spent trying to revolutionize the auto and aircraft industries directly instead of spending time on these forums?
[quote=”gtome” post=29713]I/she would have to get the base color and the kandy and all reducers and hardeners.][/quote]
That’s for UK, not KK as I said earlier. You can put KK their SG100, in DBC 500 or any intercoat clear. That’s one of it’s purposes. Use any base you have in stock. PPG Vibrance is a similar system; they just don’t have variety of products HOK has. All this info is online. I would not lift a finger until you give her a price.This is the place you want to be.
SS will not produce the same effect as kandy, even if it is matte. There is still depth in matte kandy, just not nearly as much as gloss. Matte SS will look like flashed BC….dead. It’s not difficult to do what she wants, just do it like Ding suggests. If you blow KBC over the black base and it’s the hue you want, it’s easier yet. T&M is irrelevant if a customer wants a certain look. Pay it, change job specs, or go somewhere else.
Kandy will lose it’s effect when matte because the principles of refraction and relection are are altered, resulting in diminished perception of depth. Snell’s Law. It would look like a wetsanded cleared kandy job prior to flowcoating. Depending on the hue desired and graphics layout, you could use KBCs instead of traditional BC with KK/SG100 over it if matte is the objective and a kandy product is a must have. Candy with a “C” for the non HOK products.
[quote=”gtome” post=29674]Not at all, but you cant seem to accept the idea that this could be a good primer gun.[/quote]
I never used it. Maybe it is just that, a “good primer” gun. On the other site you said it is the [i]”Best primer gun ever”.[/i] Here you say the only other brand name used for a comparison was Finishline and never used the SATA. Comparisons can be done with varying degress of variables and thoroughness. Such as price, quality, longevity, parts availability, performance, number of products tested and experience. Stating one gun’s info without offering a comparison to many others, as well as paint products used is lacking a complete evaluation. If I get a demo gun I can say it shoots well, but others may perform just as well or better. Sales brochures are written in such a manner, they don’t offer detailed comparsions to the competition.