Scott Bowden

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Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 101 total)
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  • January 14, 2013 at 9:12 am #40375

    [quote=”lild” post=29356]We don’t use 9700 black any more, & I don’t add any thing in the tri coats other then reducer.

    I will tell u that the tri’s that use the prlx pearls will take 4 coats of mid.[/quote]
    Why don’t you use BC activator in PPG tricoats?

    January 9, 2013 at 5:09 pm #40244

    Your shooting a bike, if you get a nib and consider it a reject just reshoot it. Like Ding says, you can’t buff out a satin imperfection. There are products only for maintenance.

    December 5, 2012 at 6:20 am #39678

    Marson(3M)Platinum is better than the Platinum Plus. I like it better than Rage Gold, especially the price. Never tried Ultra. Most popular does not always mean the best.

    December 4, 2012 at 8:03 pm #39664

    Where on the value scale in comparison to Plum Crazy? How about hue, more red or blue preferred? Bikes have a good selection of violets, some dark, but not sure how well they cross to SW.

    December 3, 2012 at 2:31 am #39617

    You can duplicate the EZ Edger by feeding the roll of tape over your leg. It’s easy, there’s a video on it here somewhere. To eliminate sealer exposure I sometimes double tape. Seal, then pull the tape revealing the tape further back and shoot color. Depends on the job.

    December 2, 2012 at 7:53 am #39588

    No offense to you, your paint guy is wrong and I’d be worried about what else he does not know. Soda blasting can cause adhesion problems no matter what paint is used. How did you get to bare metal?

    December 2, 2012 at 7:34 am #39586

    Welcome aboard. What paint guys? DPLF is designed to go over properly prepped bare metal. It can be used with DX1791 for maximum adhesion and performance. Odd a company has an epoxy that needs another product to perform it’s best. It can’t be used with other etches. [i]Read the TDS[/i]. I stopped using DPLF shortly after the old DP was discontinued. Right now I use RM EP epoxies. Others here will provide their product choices.

    December 1, 2012 at 5:34 am #39550

    This rot repair is also not done correctly. Backers should not be used on rotted panels that look like screen doors. Fab a new piece, learn how if you can’t, or find a replacement door. I have to wonder if fiberglass was used to fill many of these holes. The shell is rotted so close and behind the hem that a proper repair is necessary for a long lasting repair. There are metal working websites that can provide invaluable fabrication and welding skills. Adverising this type of work is not good for business.

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    December 1, 2012 at 5:22 am #39543

    Rep gave me some MS42 And I have not used it yet. Waiting for something that’s not critical to try it.

    November 30, 2012 at 10:37 pm #39503

    Kitty hair has no place in these types of repairs, or many others where people use it incorrectly. Like when using it for rot hole repair instead of using proper metalworking skills. If filler cracking is a concern, the metal is under tension and needs to be shrunk or stretched. You can’t just make things up as you go along and defy all recommended procedures.

    November 17, 2012 at 10:22 pm #39302

    [quote=”overtimeautobody” post=28353]yes mixed reviews on the transtar as welll .i used the euro classic 7021 for 2 years ,then they changed it,re formula was never the same,what are you paying for the euro kwik 7211$$$$$, on the utech,were are you guys buying ,i cant find it in my area????[/quote]
    $144 Clear and act.

    November 17, 2012 at 9:33 pm #39296

    [quote=”ryan999″ post=28349] Looks good! You didn’t have to buff and it was painted without a booth? I feel ashamed cause i still have to at least nib and polish and I use a high dollar booth. :blush:[/quote]
    Only 2 nibs on top under where the seat mounts, a couple tiny ones on the fender sides. They all don’t come out this clean but I try. You know the drill, cleanliness and prep. If I cut a corner I pay for it. And as to be expected, I sometimes get dust when I think I won’t and get none when I think I should.

    November 17, 2012 at 8:40 pm #39293

    This is Transtar Euro Kwik Clear. No booth, not buffed. Cheaper than AG-40, which I’ve also used on the last 3 trike bodies. This job just came back because the shipping company damaged the body. Looks the same now as when I shot it in June of this year.
    [IMG]http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq70/Gargoyle_67/12hrlyunbuffed_0656-1.jpg[/IMG]

    November 17, 2012 at 6:28 pm #39277

    Media blasting will produce a dull finish, not a machined appearance which is what the wheels were when new.

    November 16, 2012 at 4:20 pm #39256

    If they are corroded they have to be CNC’d. There are wheel resto services nationwide. If not corroded, strip the clear, polish flawlessly and reclear. If the virgin, freshly machined appearance is not restored, they will not look like new.

Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 101 total)