Scott Bowden
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Thanks gentlemen. These were a break from monotony. The ’31 was an ivory and black pickup and he wanted it converted. We did 2 for him, one was refrigerated. I’ve seen these and the previous ’53 listed for sale in different states. ’31 needed some of the oak roof framing repaired, but otherwise a rust free color change.
[IMG]http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq70/Gargoyle_67/Good%20Humor/IMG_0006.jpg[/IMG]Thanks. There’s still a long road ahead and much to be learned.
[quote=”Bladem3″ post=28183]Hi Scott, yeh that sounds like the one although I bought the sample bottles direct, we are shelving the Holographic flake now, as the rainbow effect isnt suited, although it looks as though we will be going for a Gold flake over a Black base, is HOK any better than any of the other flake suppliers, I should imagine there all pretty much similar arent they?[/quote]
Where are those samples you shot? I’ve only used HOK flakes, some of their other products and PPG Vibrance. You said you wanted the look of gold ring which is smooth. Flakes will look more like gold dust or shavings. There are others who have many more years experience than I, and have done hundreds of jobs and variations in paint combinations. One source is: http://www.kustomkulturelounge.com/forum/ I’ve done a few flake and metajuhl jobs but they are not gold. My photos may not be good reference for your job. Flake can also be put in a carrier, then cleared and recleared. Not much time for you to do extensive research and a lot of experimentation.
I’ve sprayed similar in HOK. Depending on size, concentration, design and base chosen, jobs can look tasteful and conservative or smash you in the face gaudy. Like often seen on boats. I believe I see the one you chose on E-Bay but the link does not work here. “METAL FLAKE 50g GOLD HOLOGRAPHIC 200mic – CUSTOM FLIP”
Nice work.
Bill, In regarding your public message about on line tech sheets. You want to go to the company’s website to get them and not just Google the product. If you Google it typing certain text, you may end up with the outdated TDS I posted earlier as an example. Once it’s on the net it’s there forever.
[quote=”billgaino” post=28138]Looky there.. It says you can topcoat directly over the etch prime. QUOTED from the TDS….
DRYING TIME:
Allow Primer to tack (15 to 30 minutes)
before applying Primer-Surfacer or topcoat.[/quote]Bill, that was revised in 2011 for a reason, that’s why it’s important to find if any updates have been released. Read the date at the bottom of the pages. Just because a company stated something on a TDS 10 years ago does not mean it applies today. Except for ability and technique, many problems can be eliminated by reading the latest TDS for every product you use. Every TDS is available on line at every company’s website.
HOK offers the compliant Shimrin 2 line which is compatible with their old line. Some of which have been discontinued. Metajuls are faceted and have more sparkle than flakes, which are flat. I’ve sprayed them both. Metajuls are nice. HOK Kosmic Krome is another option. Mirror Reflective was discontinued unless they have since reformulated it. There are countless combinations available in the new line and I’ve only begun to scratch the surface. HOK does not have the market cornered on flakes, others have been around for years.
Ryan’s TDS above is an 04/11 revision. Previous TDS from 04/02 does not state 491-17 must be followed by primer, and topcoats can be applied directly over it. Reported failures may have prompted the revison and/or the lab determined performance was compromised by not following etch with primer. http://metropaint.com/pdfs/491-17.pdf I have not used etch since the 80’s when Variprime was popular.
Textured and wrinkle paint are not the same. Wrinkle is obtained through a chemical reaction, texture is not. Texture additve, like PPG DX1999 is added to achieve the desired result. It’s commonly used on dash [i]tops [/i]for GM restorations to duplicate the factory finish. Although many don’t know it’s correct. SEM offers it too in aerosol and gun sprayable but it’s 1K.
I use the 3M Platinum(01171), not the Plus. Smooth, sands easily, inexpensive.
Two years ago I bought an Iwata AZ3HV-18GC for $97 at PowerToolBox, now $108. Cheapest price I could find. I don’t have any problems with it. I’m not high production and it’s used weekly but not daily. The Accuspray looks attractive.
The AMD job has slowed because I’m locating more GM tin for it. The Goodmark panels provided were not satisfactory. Put a GM door on and it fit well, what a surprise. Jayson, here’s the link to my AMD panels: http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=212160&highlight=tailpanel
[quote=”Jayson M” post=27863]The camaro turned out awesome Scott!! You should post pics of the camaro you are doing now.Welcome to the site![/quote]
Thanks. Your recent Tekna and last year’s SATA suggestions played a part. I suppose the other car should go in the restoration section. I’ve compiled AMD quarter modification information to achieve fit and mimic factory appearance. Typical repro tin shortcomings. It’s a lengthy thread on another site.Here’s a few shots, there’s more. Multiple panel replacement and mods required for better than factory gaps. Just another boring complete paint job and not for show, this car will get driven. Tops were denibbed and the sides cut but not dead flat. I could have had a better finish with more precise control. Easier when I was in the booth every day many years ago. Bikes are different. 2021 is OK but I’d like to possibly try something else on the next complete. I’m redoing a ’67 now that was butchered by a “restoration shop” with an impressive website. They took the guy for a ride.
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Decklid not cut, only two dustnibs were removed.
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