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LPH-400LVs dont like to be running much higher than 20psi at the gun…actually, it works best at 14 to 18psi…
Too much pressure ant its out of its designed parameters…
Adjustments:
16 psi at the handle with the trigger fully depressed while shooting paint…important…don’t adjust it dry and always trigger opened…
Close the fluid completely (the handle does not depress anymore) then…open the fluid tip 2 and 1/2 turns from closed, that’s close to the sweet spot for clear and single stage urethane…
Shoot the pattern on a scrap paper and adjust the fan to full open…then close the fan knob slightly until you see the widht of the fan close a little…this removes the edge and creates a cleaner pattern…
You are ready to shoot…
One trick is to speed up your passes but make more passes…and look at the surface as you spray…when the surface is just about to become wet move on…think of it as wetting the surface with a fine mist gradually…
With high pressure and fluid knob wide opened it will become a hose and not atomize very well…you will get alot of texture. This is a fantastic gun you have, experiment with it and you will see it likes low pressures more than high ones…I spray single and clear like glass with mine…
Ideal tip size is 1.3…1.4 will do also but reduce the material output with the bigger nozzle…Oh, and one more thing…you should have the silver cap on…the orange and purple caps are for basecoat only…
Hope this helps…
Hey…is that trash in your pain in the last picture!… :rofl
Real nice job….congrats…
Thanks…We are still working on the website which we hope will be informative.
The idea is to educate the customers on the steps that are required to repair their cars. It helps understand why its so expensive sometimes. Its not just scratch and shoot…there is a method to this madness… :woohoo:
Websites are alot of work…so are videos…man, you can sink so much time into them…but I enjoy it alot…
I do a bumper on youtube….
It might help…its not very technical but shows me working on it…
I can get the hinge support and change just that…I have to un-glue the air ducts to get it out…Maybe I should do this however, I have repaired composites that were working way harder than that with good results….especially in boats…
That reinforcement hinge part (also does the grill perimeter) is not that beefy…Do you guys regularly change those parts out? I plan to use a little heat to get the glue to soften enough to pry the parts off…is that what you guys do? The Volvo dealer estimated 8 hours to do the replacement…and almost 700 for the part…at 75$ an hour..so I know they do it there…
We’ll see…Its fun to tinker with new stuff….The color of the truck is sort of a bluish purple pearl…we’ll see how much its going to be. I bet the clears are an arm and a leg too…
Enough Canada jokes already….
I put up to 10% Molson Canadian in the clear to prevent it from freezing up in the winter…Budwiser works too but only on American cars…
Enough Canada jokes already….
I put up to 10% Molson Canadian in the clear to prevent it from freezing up in the winter…Budwiser works too but only on American cars…
Being in Canada, I am now stuck with the low VOC stuff…and the elite is the only one that passes…so from now on, that’s all we have.
My understanding though is since 2008 all Volvo trucks are done at the factory with Imron elite….
The customer requested imron all the way…I’ll do a test fender or something to get the hang of it…
I am now just concerned with the extent of the structural pieces I must unglue from the hood to get to the piece I want to repair or replace, I am still not sure about what to do…I am leaning towards replacing right now, it has many hairline cracks which tells me it has been stressed a lot more than it seems at first sight…
Right now, I believe I have to take the ram air ducts out and then the hinge supports. The exterior of the hood will be cosmetic only…I am just afraid that if I screw up on the inner structure that it will crack again and I will have to redo…not a pleasant thought…but it is my first hood and the customer is aware of that…he is very trusting which is quite nice…
I just went with my bank…easy, one place to deal with…a little more expensive but I get great service.
It is expensive though…but separates your garage from the fly by nights…
Thanks for the replies…
Taking the hood off is not a problem…these are easy…unplug the single loom and 4 bolts…and it falls off :woohoo:
I repair structural smc with epoxy resins and cloth…makes for a very solid repair. I learned that from my boat guys…
I need to repair two small cracks in the hinge support as the truck had another semi back up into it lightly..In order to make the job easy, I would unbond the internal support from the hood, repair it and then bond it back in…except that its buried under 5 other supports, including the ram air ducts… and I don’t want to unbond all of those internal structures to get to the hinge support piece which also surrounds the grill…If I do, I am in for 400$ in fusor adhesive!…. :cens
Actually, you made me realize that there is already imron elite on the truck from the factory…I can sand 1500 on it and polish it back as a test to get a feel for it. I think I’ll shoot a scrap fender with the imron first to get the hang of it….it looks like a different animal…
I am looking forward to this job on monday…new stuff is always fun…