mike duckering
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oops not sure why it posted anonymous on the initial thread?
waiting on pictures to come through from the customer.
I do have a two air dryers in line, so i’m not sure why i would have moisture, still very possible.
no sir, new bumper and no filler in that area on the hood
The car is a single turbo 300zx running on E85.
the crash video (hence the body work) the car was actually running around 700HP to the rear wheels, the title on that video is incorrect.
I was the first car down the track with slicks, after a track prep from a car spilling oil the entire length…..guess they missed a spot :huh: managed to save it to some degree.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-tj5ucuJDXYthanks Rikka,
I will be removing the hatch and bumpers.
once i have painted the jams and around the hatch area and reinstalled the hatch, do i then mask off the areas to prevent overspray? if so, how do obtain a clean line between the two?
Is it feasable to apply base color to the jams and hatch aarea, install hatch, than clear the outside and the jams/hatch at the same time to prevent any hard lines?
i will be painting Daytona blue, Nissan B17.thanks for all the info guys!
I’ll use a test card to make sure everything looks correct before painting the car.Thanks for the advice guys!
I use the yellow 3m tape and blue 1/4 finish line tape for the edges of a two tone.
I am using economy paint as im new to painting, until my skills get better im worried on spending big bucks on expensive material.
PPG shopline was the base
PPG JC630 clear, if im not mistaken
Primer surfacer and the epoxy primer are both made by Kirker.here is a few pics of the job in question, it was the front bumper area that i had issues with.
Car received a full paint job, including the roof and T-Top sections black. Everything turned out quite nice, wish i had more time to cut and buff.
the finish you see is straight off the gun with a little polishing to clean her up for the customer.It would more than likely cost you more attempting to paint an entire car with spray cans than it would to get a Maaco job done….even though the rattle can would far superior quality than Maaco :blink:
Had a similar issue when switching to the dekups system on my Tekna copper. Raising the air pressure to 26-28 resolved this issue.
Possibly to much air pressure? maybe your gun regulator is acting up giving giving you incorrect air cap pressure.
Swap out a know good regulator and give her another try.good luck!
Just curious…the Onyx is water based correct?
What problems are you having? is the water based paint that much harder to apply than solvent?
I was told you need to bake water base paints to be able to flash the paint, is this a correct statement?Complete noob here and really have no business posting amongst the experienced guys.
this is what i use and had no issues apart from my gun filter causing the Tekna problems, but this was resolved by removing the gun filter and adding another fine particle filter upstream.CAT Techline CPR cap for base/metallics
Tekna Coppper for clearboth appear to give great results, but i have nothing to compare with.
more pics
here she is, not perfect but %100 better!
let me know what you guys think…..the pictures were taken after 1 hour of flash time.
except the pictures with the garge door open, these were taken the next morning.3.5 hours of block sanding….
The clear was a nice guide to show the low spots, i broke thru into the primer in some areas to achieve the flatness.
the first few pictures show the areas that were in question form the orinal post.
I’ll paint the hood tonight and show you guys Monday morning of the results.ohh man i hope i didnt get it too hot the first time i sanded the hood….
my gut feeling is strip it to metal and be done…my body is saying hell no 🙂
I’ll let you all know how it turns out.
thanks again for the support!
