Scott
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Both are great paint systems, for me personally it would come down to pricing and support, the best paint system is only as good as the support behind it , you need to go with the jobber which will stand beside you and help you understand the product with training and service.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=36833]Never had the need for that,we mix paint in the cup then add the lid with the strainer and go spray.Maybe there is more crap in your brand IDK :S That seems kind of counter productive to mix in something else,strain into your cup and go,just sayin……[/quote]
It doesn’t take that long
[quote=”Jayson M” post=36826][quote=”smooth” post=36823][quote=”ryan999″ post=36807]Stick with the RPS cups. They do not restrict flow and you get a clean cup for every use.
You can use the 125 micron strainers for sealer, base and clear. You only need the 190 for primer. I always use 190 micron for all BTLV also.[/quote]
Really depends what paint system and strainers one is using, The PPG waterborne recommends 125 strainers with solvent glue on the screen, and the 190’s are for solvent that has waterborne glue on them, maybe Akzo isn’t like this , I’m just clarifying so no one gets confused.[/quote]
Are you talking about the paper strainers?There is no point in using them as all cup systems come with the strainers you put in the cup.Akzo does recommend 125 for for WB but its not a big deal to use them with sealer or clear,it will just strain out smaller chunks of crap.Basf suggests 190 for WB so again like you said it depends on the system used.[/quote]
All the painters I know in my area are using paper strainers before pouring the paint into the cup so it’s double strained, never be too sure when it comes to dirt
[quote=”Jayson M” post=36825][quote=”smooth” post=36820][quote=”hating-painting” post=36805]Why are you guys using the metal cups for sealer and clear?
Feeling the screen in the pps cups are too restrictive?[/quote]For my situation it’s cheaper, comes down to cost.[/quote]
Actually its not,think about the labour per 1 gun cleaning session and the solvent.Or you fill a disposable cup then throw it out when your done.The disposable cups are cheaper in the long run,add up how many sessions per day,week,year and the disposable systems are cheaper.[/quote
Like I said, for my situation it’s cheaper, I have a gun washer that recycles gun wash and cleans the guns for me.
[quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=36810]I still come across painters who believe the finer the sanding the better finish it will produce ,trying to explain that using 1500 when re clearing is wrong can still create arguments ,some sprayers think the scratch will show through the clear which is nonsense ,I DA back with anything from 320 to 600 for re clearing
as for base depending on if it is a solid or a metallic or pearl anything from 320 to 500 DA or 600 to 800 wet n dry ,not that I wet sand much these days[/quote]
Very true, I would not re clear anything finer than at least 800 grit
[quote=”ryan999″ post=36807]Stick with the RPS cups. They do not restrict flow and you get a clean cup for every use.
You can use the 125 micron strainers for sealer, base and clear. You only need the 190 for primer. I always use 190 micron for all BTLV also.[/quote]
Really depends what paint system and strainers one is using, The PPG waterborne recommends 125 strainers with solvent glue on the screen, and the 190’s are for solvent that has waterborne glue on them, maybe Akzo isn’t like this , I’m just clarifying so no one gets confused.
[quote=”ryan999″ post=36807]Stick with the RPS cups. They do not restrict flow and you get a clean cup for every use.
You can use the 125 micron strainers for sealer, base and clear. You only need the 190 for primer. I always use 190 micron for all BTLV also.[/quote
Really depends what paint system and strainers one is using, The PPG waterborne recommends 125 strainers with solvent glue on the screen, and the 190’s are for solvent that has waterborne glue on them.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=36806][quote=”hating-painting” post=36805]Why are you guys using the metal cups for sealer and clear?
Feeling the screen in the pps cups are too restrictive?[/quote]
The other painter seems to think that we will save money that way 😛 But if you add up the labor per cleaning session and the solvent I’m sure its cheaper in the long run.I have also heard the liner systems can restrict flow somewhat and when you are close to being empty the vacuum will suck crap through the filter.Any truth to this???[/quote]
This theory certainly sounds legit to me
[quote=”hating-painting” post=36805]Why are you guys using the metal cups for sealer and clear?
Feeling the screen in the pps cups are too restrictive?[/quote]For my situation it’s cheaper, comes down to cost.
X2 on the SATA cups, what a mess I made, haha. I have only used a couple of the SATA cups that came with a gun I bought so I never really got a good feel for them and they aren’t reddily available to me so I can’t give an opinion.
I have been using the old Norton liners my jobber had stocked up on but now they are all out and Norton doesn’t make them any more because 3M supposedly sued them because of there similar design. Don’t bother with the new Norton liners because they suck, they have a stupid rubber and a spring in them that disturbs paint flow and suction and causes the gun to spit.
We’re now using the 3M PPS system, I think they are ok, they fit on the POS accuspray, (on my third gun) been using them now for about 6 months. Storage isn’t a concern for me being I don’t store paint , I only mix what I need and toss the liner in the trash, I only use them for base, I’m like you Jay I use metal pots for sealer and clear, only complaint I have they I don’t even know is valid is I suspect if I leave paint in the liner while attached to the gun when I’m drying it with the blowers I think paint bits may soak through the liner screen (yes I’m using the 125 micron) But I’m not sure.
Gun washer is a good idea, probably the best move I’ve made when it come to house cleaning in the booth, it’s so easy compared to manually cleaning the guns and does save on time and gun wash big time, I bought the UNI Ram UG 5000W solvent and waterborne double unit. Hope this helps[quote=”cstss” post=36731]I have a drawer full of 2000and 3000s ill sell to ya cheap[/quote
How cheap, I’m interested
Update: The Axalta rep never did show up for the demo that he was supposed to do for us. So till this day I have not tried it. I think it may have something to do with they are trying to push Cromax Pro in my area ( sales / Politics) which I see no point being I’m not interested in that product.
I attended an I- Car class in November 2014 in which the instructor was also an Axalta paint rep, he mentioned that it’s Low Voc Chromabase/ Chroma Premiere and wasn’t as fast as Cromax Pro, which I have trouble understanding.
Since then PPG has provided me with their new Rapid Match Prophet X5 Camera. Color match issues are now a thing of the past, Very happy with it , I can get a blendible match in under 5 mins, so I doubt I will changing paint lines anytime soonLooks great Mo, good to see ya back again, always nice to see your beautiful work, thanks for sharing.
Strip or feather, Prime and block for best results
Looking good there guys, keep up the good work! :rock