Scott
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When i order my parts i make sure my parts supplier describes every thing to me before hand, if its too serious i dont want it. I find in most cases its damaged during shipping and if its their fault they pay. No matter what i always come out on top. But im NOT a DRP shop.
priming the entire repair area and working your way in is called the reverse priming method.there are several advantages of doing this compared to the traditional priming method.
1. Less overspray on the edges of each coat. (less texture and better adhesion)
2. less potential for solvent trapping that might cause die back or solvent popping
3. edges left open for solvent to escape (faster drying times)
4. An edge that is easier to feather into the surrounding existing finish.
do you think a 59 Porsche is really a great car to practice on? what kind of cond. is the car in? Some pictures might help. first of all i would completely dismantle the whole car (remove all door handles, mirrors, key cylinders, bumpers etc.) Scrub everything that is painted with a wax and grease remover, mark all your dents and ripples that are going to need filler work,if you are going with ss paint sand the entire car with 320-400 grit paper until all shine and peel is gone. If their is any rust i suggest sand blasting just the spots. fill all imperfections and finish with a polyester putty. tape, paper, prime,seal,paint, cut and buff, reassemble. :weights
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