Scott

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Viewing 15 posts - 661 through 675 (of 721 total)
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  • September 4, 2011 at 3:46 pm #32745

    It would definently make a great practice hood. Repairs are good in some cases but if you want a perfect job i would suggest replacing. I always say that the sign of a great paint job is no sign at all.

    September 4, 2011 at 3:33 pm #32744

    :welc Enjoy!

    September 2, 2011 at 3:05 am #32705

    My vote is to replace with a used clean oem hood. You can pick one up for about 100-150$. Yes you may have to blend into the fenders but you have to paint the hood and bumper any way…IMO

    August 31, 2011 at 2:58 am #32675

    When i order my parts i make sure my parts supplier describes every thing to me before hand, if its too serious i dont want it. I find in most cases its damaged during shipping and if its their fault they pay. No matter what i always come out on top. But im NOT a DRP shop.

    August 31, 2011 at 2:44 am #32674

    Welcome! Dont waste your money on those very expensive sata’s, you can get a Devilbiss tekna with a 1.3 and produce just as good work if not better at half the cost.

    August 20, 2011 at 5:40 am #32559

    priming the entire repair area and working your way in is called the reverse priming method.there are several advantages of doing this compared to the traditional priming method.

    1. Less overspray on the edges of each coat. (less texture and better adhesion)

    2. less potential for solvent trapping that might cause die back or solvent popping

    3. edges left open for solvent to escape (faster drying times)

    4. An edge that is easier to feather into the surrounding existing finish.

    August 20, 2011 at 1:40 am #32548

    That guy sounds like an :cens . sorry to hear that. WE are more than willing to answer any of your questions. Auto body is a very rewarding trade. Welcome.

    August 18, 2011 at 2:25 am #32506

    do you think a 59 Porsche is really a great car to practice on? what kind of cond. is the car in? Some pictures might help. first of all i would completely dismantle the whole car (remove all door handles, mirrors, key cylinders, bumpers etc.) Scrub everything that is painted with a wax and grease remover, mark all your dents and ripples that are going to need filler work,if you are going with ss paint sand the entire car with 320-400 grit paper until all shine and peel is gone. If their is any rust i suggest sand blasting just the spots. fill all imperfections and finish with a polyester putty. tape, paper, prime,seal,paint, cut and buff, reassemble. :weights

    August 16, 2011 at 1:33 am #32453

    did you try finding a used hood? you should to be able to find one of those for around 150$ or so.

    :deadhorse

    August 15, 2011 at 10:08 pm #32451

    Did you check the price on an aftermarket hood? My price is 300$ and its CAPA certified.

    August 14, 2011 at 6:38 pm #32436

    DA. Because i run a production shop and DA is 10 times quicker.

    August 14, 2011 at 6:28 pm #32435

    lol. this thread is too funny..

    August 14, 2011 at 6:21 pm #32434

    i have a air dryer on my compressor, moisture isnt a problem. Thats as close as 100% dry air for me. And i bet its a hell of alot cheaper than nitrogen.

    August 14, 2011 at 2:36 am #32415

    Sounds like a bunch of hot air to me. (no pun intended) . Another marketing gimmic trying to soak a few bucks out of the shops. I dont see a big advantage here.

    August 14, 2011 at 2:27 am #32413

    Im with jay and ben on this one. Never ever had a bumper off from the body solvent or water. Why would it if its the same batch of paint with the same amount of coats?

Viewing 15 posts - 661 through 675 (of 721 total)