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Thanks for all your helpful advises.
Could my problem be the 1st coat painted too wet? I never thought about spraying the 1st coat as tack/drop coat, till I saw low spots after I sanded with 800 & plastic block. I have never seen low spots when sanding a wavy clear coat since I used regular durablock, till this time. The way this wave looks to me is more like flowing issue or my gun is not spraying consistently, not really seems like the issue of overlap. So, maybe my 1st coat was a bit too wet?
I just bought a metal plate from Lowes for test spray. So, I think I got pretty good idea now how to fix this thing. Thanks
The problem is not the panel surface; the panel was original just repainted. The wave only happens on vertical flat panels. I sprayed a 01 Ford Ranger overall, and I could see wave in both door panels and bed side panels. I got a long plastic durablock this time, so I sanded the panel with it and P800 sandpaper. After few passes, I found low spots. It seems to me that I didn’t lay the clear evenly, got it got wavy on the surface.
After few days, I had to repaint one of the door. I tried to spray this clear again without reducer in it, and also at lower temp ( about 68 with med hardner sold to me by mistake), and it seems working out better, but the surface is not satisfiable. Next panel I spray, I will try to increase pressure to Devilbiss suggested 30-40psi.
Also, I don’t seem to have problem on fender or bumper; just the large vertical panel.
Jayson – Should I spray closer than 6in? I suppose that I should move quick in that kind of distance. Yeh?
I used 670 plus. Someone referred by Matrix told me to spray it with pressure around 25psi, I am thinking that might be the problem since I am using complaint gun. Before this one, I had Nason 465 that I could layout nice by 37psi, quick spray in 6 inches with this same gun, but Nason clear requires 20% reducer. So, that make me think …. is this type of high solid clear just easier to spray than AG40LV or Transtar? That is why I asked about DC92.
I did also have problem with hardner, which my stupid jobber sold me medium temp since they were out of high temp. I have told him that I was gonna spray an entire car, but still. I was later told by someone that is a big NO NO for overall. However, I have tried it again on a single panel at temp about 70, I still got some wave in it.
I am thinking to try again with 35-40psi pressure, and quick spray. Suggestion?
close and fast huh. I will give it a try. Have you tried 1.3 tip instead of 1.4? I do have 1.4, so I will try it next time also. Thanks for the info
Thanks for the answers!
I would want to start with P1500 trizact, but I am new to this clear, and still trying to get it lay down well. I will get some P1200 for my next project if I still can’t get the clear to lay down flat.
Another question. Trizact P1500 is a bit costly, but it works much better than dry finishing film on clear that is drys for days or longer. If I use P1500 dry finishing film on AG40LV clear within 48 hours dry time ( still soft ), will I be able to buff out its pigtails if followed by P3000 Trizact?
Smooth, do you reduce this clear? If you do, how much reducer? Thanks much!
hate to run out paint in the middle of job :S
[b]Underpaid Painter wrote:[/b]
[quote]Im not sure how dupont works but SW uses a base coat stabilizer not a reducer. I would just bite the bullet and spend the money on the SW mid if you get good matches with it. Quit messing around with this and get it sprayed ;)[/quote]:lol1 waiting for my paint to get back from jobber for sparying
Just got sooooo interested in auto painting, and got too excited :exci and curious on everything. that is why I got many questions to ask …. sorry, guys
Too bad that SW doesn’t sell pearl in less than pint ……. I still got my pint of pearl for Acura almost full in can, but sitting in garage and collecting dust. $120 worth :pinch: of dusty can, but they sure did match pretty well on that car. I heard that you spray nothing but SW, how’s the matching??? Maybe next car I spray I will give them a try again.
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]I am in Kentucky so I have no idea. Most Dupont jobbers will have Standox or Spies. A platinum PPG jobber will have Nexa. Just google it.If they adjust your color it should be fine. Thats what a painter in a shop would do with a mixing bank.
It is not a good idea to become junior bench chemist. Chemical engineers at paint companies design a system to work together and a certain way. Trust me you or anybody else that paints cars knows more than they do. You can get away with using one brand of base and another clear, but that can even bite you in the ***.[/quote]
ryanbrown999,
Thanks much for your advise.
I wasn’t trying to do it, and it was just a question for curiousity. I have good understanding on the unexpectable chemical raction, so even I will try it later, it is NOT gonna be on my RX350 ………… but, maybe a fender for like a 94 whatever car that I can afford to try just for the heck of it. :lol1
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]I am in Kentucky so I have no idea. Most Dupont jobbers will have Standox or Spies. A platinum PPG jobber will have Nexa. Just google it.If they adjust your color it should be fine. Thats what a painter in a shop would do with a mixing bank.
It is not a good idea to become junior bench chemist. Chemical engineers at paint companies design a system to work together and a certain way. Trust me you or anybody else that paints cars knows more than they do. You can get away with using one brand of base and another clear, but that can even bite you in the ***.[/quote]
ryanbrown999,
Thanks much for your advise.
I wasn’t trying to do it, and it was just a question for curiousity. I have good understanding on the unexpectable chemical raction, so even I will try it later, it is NOT gonna be on my RX350 ………… but, maybe a fender for like a 94 whatever car that I can afford to try just for the heck of it. :lol1
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]I am in Kentucky so I have no idea. Most Dupont jobbers will have Standox or Spies. A platinum PPG jobber will have Nexa. Just google it.If they adjust your color it should be fine. Thats what a painter in a shop would do with a mixing bank.
It is not a good idea to become junior bench chemist. Chemical engineers at paint companies design a system to work together and a certain way. Trust me you or anybody else that paints cars knows more than they do. You can get away with using one brand of base and another clear, but that can even bite you in the ***.[/quote]
ryanbrown999,
Thanks much for your advise.
I wasn’t trying to do it, and it was just a question for curiousity. I have good understanding on the unexpectable chemical raction, so even I will try it later, it is NOT gonna be on my RX350 ………… but, maybe a fender for like a 94 whatever car that I can afford to try just for the heck of it. :lol1
[b]gqken wrote:[/b]
[quote]So then I guess my last questions would be? What is the best gun for shooting glass like clear? Would it make any difference if I used the 1.3 tip instead of the 1.4 tip for clear? Lastly Is the sata 3000 digital a bad choice for a beginner and is this a good gun for paint? Oh also if by volume you mean more clear or paint I fully understand and it makes perfect sense, since last night I had a major break through with the sata gun.. As I was tying to let the clear run and I started spraying alot slower to see what happend and their it was… Clear as glass!!!! But the part where I followed all the steps and tried to get it perfect, just looked like orange peal again??Thanks Sorry for all the questions but I think this will slove all my painting issues… Thanks again.[/quote]I am not a pro, and I had similar experience just like you did, and I got it all fixed.
when I upgraded my air compressor just recently ( 60 gallon ), I have added an industrial level filter/regulator on the wall, after about 25ft of piping, and I attach my hose to the regulator filter …….. well, it is just a better Harbor freight filter/regulator with low cost, really. I also have another gauge attached to the gun so I can see the inlet PSI when trigger is pulled. My filter regulator is set high about 60psi ( I just look at my gun gauge when adjusting the one on filter ). Since I have got everything setup, my pressure has been stable even when the compressor kicks on.
I suppose that you have attached your hose directly to the compressor, which I do not know if that is the reason to your problem, but I was told not to do that. Also, if you are using cheap hose from Harbor Freight, replace it with a better one. I had couple of them before, and they drop psi like crazy. Once I replaced them with one from Lowes, it got a lot better.
Do not know about the orange peel in clear, but I always get bad orange peel when I was using my startingline gun for clear, or painting it when the temperature is hot and I am not using the right reducer for the temperature, so the clear drys faster. Not familiar with Sata gun so I can’t make any suggestion on it, but if it is a good gun, you should not get bad orange peel with it if your air pressure is good, and the temperature is not hot.
[b]MoCoke wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]Han wrote:[/b]
[quote]Mo!OK, what else have you tried?? :silly:[/quote]
LOL, when i do jambs or underhood stuff i let my creativity go wild. ive mixed 2:1 clear 4:1 accidentally; no problems, used the 4:1 urethane hardner in place of the 2:1 polyurethane hardener;just a little die back, again accidental, lol, mixed DBU and DBC; intentionally, no problems, mixed left over DBC and OMNI, very ugly color but needed it for coverage issue. ive put baby powder in a can of dynalite 494 to see what would happen, tried to improve it but its just a crappy filler. Benjamin Moore industrial colorant in a urethane primer (i use that to shade all my primers now to as close as the base color as possible, works perfectly just costs less and saves a lot of base. i cant think of anything else lol.[/quote]
You sound crazy …….. but I have done the many similar things in my work field, not auto paint thu. :exci
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]Aren’t you spraying a newer Lexus SUV???I posted earlier that you might want to look at a European paint line as they have better matches. Try Sikkens, Glasurit, Nexa, or Spies Hecker/ Standox.
You are going to create alot more work for yourself. I have sprayed alot of RX350’s in 3-stage with Sikkens and always had very good matches. You have recieved good advice here from quite a few guys who all paint for a living but you seem to insist on kicking yourself in the balls with this job. Take a step back, buy some base that matches, work with a jobber who will work with you. Spray the car and be done. You are talking about a 50K SUV and you are pinching pennies on paint??? Don’t major in a minor here! You are going to try and save a few dollars and will end up spending alot more money and time in the long run.
The advice Jayson first gave you was top notch advice. Buy some good paint and follow what he said and it will turn out nice.[/quote]
Not pinching pennies on paint ….. just can’t find any of these brands you suggested. But, I have followed Jayson’s suggestion, just not quick enough to put hands on it due to my 6 days working schedule and other things. However, I have finally done my test panel as suggested by jayson, and yah, my base color mismatch just like he said, and non of pearl layers matches of course.
I have already brought my paint ( both base & pearl ) back to my jobber for adjustment, with my good fender for matching. With additional charge, they are going to adjust the paint color, and spray test to match factory color on my good fender. So, I will get tested matching paint with known result, and exactly # of layer needed on pearl for matching. I am now looking forward to have good result once I get the paint back.
Sorry for asking too many questions …. just want to get it done right. And, I am taking advises seriously, but just didn’t have time to put hands on it till last Sunday, not because I wouldn’t, but couldn’t.
By the way, do you happens to know who sells any of these paint brand you suggested, in North California?????
Thanks for the input
[b]lild wrote:[/b]
[quote]your first coat of pearl will go out past the edge of the ground coat. then each coat of pearl will go out past the last coat.[/quote]Thanks for the confirmation B)