Alex Dalton

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  • November 8, 2012 at 3:08 am #38959

    Absolutely stunning work man! Just to touch on the whole seeing the repairs thing, I’ve never used the Nason 2k primer but I have seen similar problems at work. We use Sikkens exclusively, and are an insurance shop. I have seen a few of the other guys smash 3 coats of Autosurfacer HB onto block finished repairs in 5-10 minutes before going home to set a job up for the morning, and I’ve noticed that when this primer is left to air dry overnight rather than being baked either in an oven or with the IR lamp, production marks are almost always visible after the car has been painted and sat for 24 hours. Was an odd concept to me as I’ve come to sikkens from Glasurit and had never seen this problem before.

    Al

    October 10, 2012 at 12:56 am #38539

    Amazing work! Given me some motivation to sort the rust out on my Integra! :cheer:

    October 8, 2012 at 1:15 am #38521

    Other than what you said I cant think of any other solution, maybe soak it for longer and agetate it with a brush or a pick every few hours. I put a little paint stripper in my Sata KLC for 10-15 minutes once as some hi-build was really caked onto the inside of the gun body.

    December 1, 2011 at 9:52 pm #34450

    I’m not sure if you guys can buy starchem products in the USA, but if you can try to get some tacky booth coating. As said above two nice coats of gloss white followed by a bake, then liberally spray the tacky coat onto the walls. It’s awesome for dust control as it becomes dry but sticky as your booth gets warmer and traps the overspray. A pressure washer will take it off in no time once it starts getting dirty, or a red Scotchbrite and soapy water for the stubborn patches. Once washed your booth will be lovely and white again 🙂

    Alex

    December 1, 2011 at 9:37 pm #34448

    Yeah we use the degreaser method too, just have to remember to polish up the adjacent panel if butt matching :unsure:

    December 1, 2011 at 1:09 am #34435

    Solvent is space age to me, I’m in the UK, I’ve been using waterbase since I started out at 16. I’ve used nexa ici, or ppg as you guys may call it, spies hecker, standox, sikkens and glasurit. And as said above glaso is the only one that isn’t a true waterbase. That said I’ve never had any trouble with it, much easier to use than the ICI. The film build in ICI always seemed too much for me, especially for base, but I find the Spies Hecker base lays down best with a Sata 3000 HVLP with a WSB setup.