steve kopena
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we been using CBP for years and those jobs that the primer rings appear, have always sanded out after the primer dries and we have no issues with shrinkage either. Once that stuff dries, it is solid. Thinner wont take overspray off or soften it up either.
If there is anything that can get me rattled when pulling the trigger is DIRT !! You can get clean jobs and soon as you get a few nibs in the clear , everyone has to put their 2cents in, and get me outta my groove!! I recently lowered the ceiling fan speed , to eliminate some dirt in my base. I do everything that everyone else does to prevent dirt, this just happens to be the latest idea, as to eliminate anything in my base. With the dry air temps outside and a little heat, the waterbourne does dry pretty quick at 30 % reduced and lays down the way its supposed to. The detailer CRY’s anytime he has to rub anything..
I been spraying sikkens autowave for over 2 yrs and we have no problems. It just took trial and error on my part to get up to speed with it. We have two downdrafts with 3 ceiling fans in each booth and hand held airmovers on portable stands. Celing fans are great !!! Clean airflow is a must for production (getting the autowave paint to dry), areas down low, below moldings or rockers the hand held air movers do the job nicely for us. Good Luck
*Sealer gun: sata NR 2000 1.4 *.Autowave SATA 3000,1.4 . * HS+ Clear Sata 3000 1.3. All Sata’s for me 😉 Sikkens sealer,paint & Clear
I sprayed autobase for years and the honda silvers, ex. NH-623-M has many varients,if the flip is not right on, you might see the blend.I would always put a coat of basefix down to fill uneven sandscratches (scuff pads)and let me see the blend easier, and slow reducer is the ticket,to keep the metalic wet and letting it lay down. I remember those “spots” caught up in the peel.I used slow even in the winter, in the blending of most metalics.Using Autowave now also.
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http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=244708&l=f5edfe3223&id=1755654003ask who ever you buy your paint off of,to sell it to you for cost. I get all my Sata’s for a little over four hundred bucks. We spend $120,000 a year in paint, so I think its just good business to “hook up” the painter. Just got a sata mini for $319. It seems like I am the only one here that uses a HVLP Sata 3000 1.3 for clear and 1.4 for base.
Sata 3000,HVLP, 1.3 tip. That gun is my favorite for sikkens clear, LOVE IT.
B) [b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]BTW I shot Dupont water for awhile and once we went to Autowave it took me a little bit to get all my little quirks worked out. The 50/50 coat mixed with blender in the end helps with the ones I cant get to go away.I have been on Autowave for 6 months now.[/quote]Thanks for the advice,this really keeps me plugged into painting water. It is easy to get pissed, but I would rather stay calm and just get the hang of this stuff. I get paid by the hr.and they dont hassle me, but I miss pumping out the cars.Nothing feels better than getting everything done right and making good time, ya know :hunt
I am signed up for the 2 day in july. Sata 3000, 1.4 tip, Metallics start at 30% depending on humidity conditions.I have the Autowave Best Practices Pocket Guide,Aug,2009. I follow its advise and tips. Can you stay in the door of a Small car, VW. With a softball sized primer spot in the middle? I would say there is about 10 inches on each side to blend and not take color to the edge, with the tougher colors, silver,golds. Thats why I was thinking about getting a sata mini jet? I tend to lower the air and tighten the pattern, on those repairs when there is not much room to blend. With solvent, I would use slow reducer and stagger the blend and it would look good and your eye would never pic up the blend. Picking the right color varient is key.With the water, the color is spot on, and I just dont have the “know how” to make it dissappear…….YET ! I am looking forward to the 2day. What area are you in Jason? I am in Bucks County, Pa. My Sikkens rep was wondering. :pcorn:
I spray sikkens HS + and autoclear III with a Sata 3000 hvlp 1.3 tip. Its nice you can really move and not have to worry about body lines running. I have about 4 JGA’s around, are they worth anything? They work well for me. Get a demo gun if possible and try some out
we have the toner 666 conector that gets reduced 20% with WB
set the hood up as if it were a blend panel,just 1000 grit it or 800 dry and skuff. since it is already covered, you just have to consentrate on matalic orientation. First I go back to basics, Am I holding the gun correctly in relationship to the panel. Tilting it can cause those stripes. Medium wet, drop coat so the matalic can lay dowm correct, followed by applying the last coat as you said, further away from the panel, lowering the air, and increasing your distance and slowing down, in order to keep from creating dry spray. Reducing the color more can make it a bit easier, just watch the way the paint looks when you apply it on the panel. Once water goes on dry it will not reflow like solvent. I still am not as good as I would expect myself to be, but its all about learning new things. I will sometimes tighten up my fan pattern on my drop coats, just so I KNOW the matalic is not flying all over the place.Hope to help,sorry if this doesn’t. Good Spraying :cheer:
the 3m guns are money well spent. Ever turn the booth lights off and go in there and look at your blend using only the color corrective light, for light. It shows blends great that way too. Invaluable tool for matching color