steve kopena
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I just watched your videos. That is a great idea for a booth, You should patten that, who knows, you could be on to something big.
I did not mean to use it forever, just till you got your problem solved. I know what its like to keep painting under any and all conditions.Its frustrating and the jobs still have to be right. Sorry, I guess I was not clear. Good Luck, Nexson
You are doing the right things to figure this out,Is the compressor air free of oil? you have a persistant fish eye problem, why the big deal about anti silicon, beats filling them in and sanding them out. Just watch how you apply the clear. It has saved me from a redo from time to time. I been spraying over 25 yrs. Sometimes you just need to get the job done right and if fish eyes appear, a little eliminator has never screwed me up yet. your not ignoring your problem, just keeping production moving. Its not my last resort, its just another tool that is there for me to use when those darn things appear.
I get 25 an hour, 40 hour week. Everytime my medical isurance goes up, my boss pays for it, and says consider it a raise. I havent got one in like 6 years!!! We Have 5 bodymen,1 assembler,1 prepper and 1 primer kid.I paint 25-30 jobs a week.It here in Bucks Co. Pa, if area matters?
Have you tried adding any anti-silicon in the clear (fish eye eliminator), It does not look like solvent pop at all. Looks like fish eyes here and there. They usually work themselves out as long as you are doing all the right things. Making sure there are no conaminates in the air, in the booth, or getting on the car while it is getting prepped. Keep your mind on eliminating possibilities and the should go away. Touching them up and rubbing is what I have always done, its better to fill them,and sand and buff. Try the anti silicon.It works by bridging over the fish eye… 😉 my 2 cents
Wow that brings back memories…Autobase, and the old turn-style mixing machines
???? Three in a row, LOL, I guess !
Yes, if you are new, ask your paint jobber/supplier to lend you a demo gun. You can use that for free and see how it sprays. If you are new,have someone with experience go in there and help you get started, another painter there or a paint tech from your supplier. That will go a long way. Mistakes happen and its all part of learning.Having someone with experience with you, can get you going in he right direction and make you feel more comfortable with spraying distance, air pressure, and how much material to apply to the surface you are painting. Happy Painting !!
welcome, I like sata spray guns, you get what you pay for. Sata 3000 HVLP for base and clear. Have older sata 2000’s for primer and sealer. I have 8 Sata’s, 2 devilbiss GTI’s. You can probably get buy with a cheaper primer gun. Spraying base and clear, a good gun will make your life easier and your jobs look better.I started with a Bink’s #7 and a Devilbiss JGA…LOL..showing my age :exci
Have been refinishing raw covers and never have any adhesion problems , we wash them down with anti stat and then wash with soap and water. Next apply the correct adhesion promoter, then seal the cover, and apply base coat and clear. Been doing it that way for years and never have had a peeling problem. Sikkens has an all plastic reducer to mix in the sealer to adhere to any type of raw plastic, ABS or polypropylene. Never baked one in twenty years. We guarantee our work for the life of the car. I actually prefer raw covers, they are easier to prep.[color=#0000FF][/color]
I been using autowave and 90% of the colors are good, picking the right color varient from the deck is critical though. I do have a camera to use but rarely use it. I will tint rather than waste the paint and try another varient. I had a problem only with a few colors, but you will have that.Like I posted earlier, the true reds (vwLA3H) are bad, colors like Chry PR4 are good because they ARE more orange.
we use 3M wall and floor covering, it traps dirt and is self adhesive. I was a skeptic, but it has made a huge difference. The base coat and the clear coat come out spotless. We have installed ceiling fans for the water to dry and That 3M stuff keeps the jobs absolutely spotless. It is a little pricey but who ever is buffing out dirt nibs will love you for this investment.It really works. Check it out
the rep said to use auto base plus on my red cars, they are awhere of the problem and working on a new cleaner water toner as we speak. Thanks guys
I have times when my water blends feel grity, reducing at 30% . The water is so thin in mills yet the gritty overspray looks seedy when cleared over. When things go right with the water it is perfect. But I miss using slow reducer and blending solvent. When I dry nib water with 1000 grit, recoating to fill the 1000 grit scratches seem to be a litter harder because of how thin the color is. I guess I am still learning after four months, compared to twenty yrs of solvents. Thinkjing of trying an Iawata 400 for base, instead of my sata 3000, with 1.4 tip